4K fuel cut any gear????

[orng1]

A homemade boost leak tester if you have access to an air compressor might be a more safe option...or a shop with a smoke machine.

That's no fun, it doesn't involve Neox hurting himself in any way.

 

[neox.286]

bwahahaha, I have oh so many scars thanks to this car...

 

[shane02pro5]

Well then at least post the vids...this should be good! Maybe wear a helmet. Broken limbs will heal in due time!

 

[mitsman81]

The first day they had the car they said nothing is wrong and they could not get it to fuel cut. I'm sure it was sitting in the warm shop before they took it out. I bitched. The next day they are telling me i need a new batt. so they can pull the codes. I bought this car 3 months ago from the dealer its at. So now I have no idea whats going on. I wish I could buy the parts and just send the morons the bill. This cold sucks but turbo cars love this weather. Mine must be afraid of the cold!!!

 

[orng1]

The first day they had the car they said nothing is wrong and they could not get it to fuel cut. I'm sure it was sitting in the warm shop before they took it out. I bitched. The next day they are telling me i need a new batt. so they can pull the codes. I bought this car 3 months ago from the dealer its at. So now I have no idea whats going on. I wish I could buy the parts and just send the morons the bill. This cold sucks but turbo cars love this weather. Mine must be afraid of the cold!!!

If they replace the battery they will clear all the codes stored, unless they use that plug that goes into the cigarete lighter which I doubt they will.

Is this a Mazda dealer you bought the car from? It seems to me they are making things difficult for you.

 

[mitsman81]

It's a Ford dealer and they have a Mazda tech there. Same company. It's a big dealership so its bs. I already have started a mess there. I used to work at the place so I think I'm just going to go to the owner.

 

[axisboldaslove]

good idea....

 

[lyserjic]

mine gave a PO171 code. its all stock. does not make a difference if its warmed up or not. cuts anywhere from 3k to 4K.

I've been dealing with the issues you've described since my Spicy hit about 40,000 miles. It has 130K on it now. 100% stock, No mods. Still doing the same crap. 3-4K fuel cut, stalling and "surging" at idle, super hard to start when it's hot or cold, CEL P0171 & P0300 codes.. Weather doesn't seem to matter, hot cold humid or dry, it always runs like crap.

When it was under warranty, Mazda couldn't fix it. Numerous other shops have had no luck.

I've dropped thousands trying to get the car running normal so it can pass inspection. For the past 3 years, it's cost about $1500 every January attempting to get it to pass emissions inspection. We have brutal emissions tests here in Texas.

At the rate I've been dropping cash on this thing, I'm half-tempted to drag up to Dallas and give Crossover a crack at it.

Good luck!

-L

 

[neox.286]

The first day they had the car they said nothing is wrong and they could not get it to fuel cut. I'm sure it was sitting in the warm shop before they took it out. I bitched. The next day they are telling me i need a new batt. so they can pull the codes. I bought this car 3 months ago from the dealer its at. So now I have no idea whats going on. I wish I could buy the parts and just send the morons the bill. This cold sucks but turbo cars love this weather. Mine must be afraid of the cold!!!

wait does it only fuel cut during cold startup and then go away at running temperature?

 

[orng1]

It may cut when it's really cold. I remember the first time I hit fuel cut driving to Nor Cal I was going through some farms at night. It felt like it changed to 20 deg instatly as we crossed, they were watering the fields at night and you could feel it. My buddy took off to catch a mustang in his eclipse and I gave chase too. I hit it and eased off. That was with the car running all day so it wasn't cold, just the temperature of the air was real cold.

 

[neox.286]

yea, which can happen as well...but if his car is only cutting when it hasn't warmed up yet that is not that abnormal, my car did that stock (though stock for me wasn't that great to begin with...) and I've seen other msps do that....it's also a surefire way to blow off a intercooler pipe if you don't have bead edged pipes hahaha (found that out the hard way many-a-time)

if it's super cold out I can see it too, but only when your boosting higher than stock to be honest...I drove in some really cold nights at stock boost on a stock tune and it didn't cut, but if I bumped it to 8 psi on a stock tune it would easily cut

idk, there are a lot of variables and I'm not gonna lie I have forgotten most of the symptoms from earlier in this thread and don't wish to go re-read it lol

 

[orng1]

I've been dealing with the issues you've described since my Spicy hit about 40,000 miles. It has 130K on it now. 100% stock, No mods. Still doing the same crap. 3-4K fuel cut, stalling and "surging" at idle, super hard to start when it's hot or cold, CEL P0171 & P0300 codes.. Weather doesn't seem to matter, hot cold humid or dry, it always runs like crap.

When it was under warranty, Mazda couldn't fix it. Numerous other shops have had no luck.

I've dropped thousands trying to get the car running normal so it can pass inspection. For the past 3 years, it's cost about $1500 every January attempting to get it to pass emissions inspection. We have brutal emissions tests here in Texas.

At the rate I've been dropping cash on this thing, I'm half-tempted to drag up to Dallas and give Crossover a crack at it.

Good luck!

-L

I really didn't read your post until now, I think you may have a bad WGA. Have you tested it yet? Just blow through the vac line to it if it holds it's ok but if you get air to go through it's bad. Mine was leaking and at odd times it'd stall or stumble and have the erratic idle.

 

[Patrickenator]

well..i thought i was invincible to the fuel cut. Hit it yesterday when it was 5 degrees out there and my girl said 'don't do that again..' lol.

 

[i like speed]

Thanks for this thread guys. I'm almost positive my wga is bad. the other night I hit the gas and it started haulin way to much ass. Looked at the boost gauge and almost s***. it was at 14.5 psi... normaly runs 6. Fuel cut right after that. Cars completely stock and the vac seems to be fine even tho it runs like it has a vac leak. I'll blow thru the vac line and report back tommorow.

 

[neox.286]

yea your wastegate is ******

 

[i like speed]

^Very true... Now is there a way to wedge it open so I can drive my car without blowing the s*** up? It's my only car so I have to drive it and it sucks trying to use my foot as a boost controler. I'll be ordering a wga monday so it's only gotta work until I get the new one.

 

[orng1]

^Very true... Now is there a way to wedge it open so I can drive my car without blowing the s*** up? It's my only car so I have to drive it and it sucks trying to use my foot as a boost controler. I'll be ordering a wga monday so it's only gotta work until I get the new one.

you could try zip tying it open but then you have not boost.

 

[i like speed]

Yeah that's the idea cuz no boost is better than too much.

 

[neox.286]

idk how well a zip tie will hold up to exhaust temperatures lol

 

[FunkyCold5]

Sounds like you have a leak somewhere.

If the dealership that sold you the car under warranty can't fix it, tell them to buy it back OR pay for your rental car until they get it right.

Better yet, have them pay for you to go to an actual Mazda Dealership. Just because they say they have one Mazda Tech in-house doesn't mean he knows sh*t about Mazda, being a Ford Dealership.

Good luck. Update us on what happens.