3-way (tweet, 5-1/4, 8") components install

Okay, update... Did my driver's side door tonight. Took a bit more wrestling than the passenger one for whatever reason (mostly I just didn't get as blindly lucky this time) but nothing serious.
Here's what it looks like with everything back in place. Perhaps difficult to see what's lurking back there, but that's fine by me. witht he flash powering through, you can see a bit of where the lower right side of surround wraps around, and get a general idea of how it's situated compared to the stock speaker.
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Firstoff, WOW. I could comfortably listen to a fullrange of music without my sub and I didn't notice anything was missing. It wasn't until I cued up the rap that I noticed the lack of thump. I've got plenty of midbass. I am, however fairly glad that I didn't settle for 6's and went with the 8's. While there is, indeed ALOT of midbass, I can indeed see that it's not TOO much. I'm pretty sure that I'll manage to find a use for it all. ;)

Also, I'm on a backup amp at the moment, an old tired cadence 4ch running bridged into the 56.2 crossovers using the 8's inplace of the 5's, so I'm kindof limited for power, etc, but it's been giving me a decent idea of what's goingon as well as providing listenable music. So at anyrate, amp-wise I'm feeling a bit on the weak side. If I don't go to a new amp setup, I'll be running 120w to each of the 8's and then another 120 to each of the 56.2 crossovers for them to divy it up between the tweet and 5 however they see fit. New amp setup would hopefully give me at least a bit more juice for both ends. I'm hoping to get 200 to the 8's and stay in the 100+ range for the components.

Thatsaid, running with a slight lack of power, I'm quite pleased. I'm geting much more door-bass than ever before. PLUS I'm getting muchless panel flop. I attribute this entirely to the use of canopyseal weatherstripping around the ring to "seal" the speaker to the doorpanel and not allow air to "impact" the panel infront of it anywhere that it won't have a good chance of escaping through the grille holes. Feeling down by where they're at there is definate air velocity goingon, enough that I'm pondering the effectiveness of opening up the holes in the grilles, the only drawback might possibly be lack of structure, but I suppose that can be addressed if it comes up. I figure I'll leave most of the "honeycomb" structure intact and hopefully find a centerdrill that will openup my holes slightly and chamfer the sides a bit as well. There's ALOT of holes, and it's gonna take quite awhile to do it all, but getting more sound through should, hopefully be worth it. I s'pose I'll likely never know either way, but I DO know that when I've had my doorpanels off, things soundbetter, and it only makes sense that the least obstruction the better. Also, it's pretty obvious if you look
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there's also now areas above where the stock oval covers that could use to be opened up, so I guess I've talked myself into eventually doing it, but of course I've got lots of other things on the waiting list.

Mostly, however, I'm quite relieve that what initially struck me to be the more challenging aspect of this install is taken care of, and moreover went fairly easily. NOW, it's time to whipout the fiberglass and the motivation.
 
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I've been pondering the same ideas...I want to keep the panel as stock as possible but I would like a custom grill. I didn't think about opening up additional holes around the outside...that's a good idea.
 
My other theory is to cutout the whole meshed "kidney" shape or whatever it is, try to cutout all of the inside, perhasp brace it a batter, and just cover it in grillecoth. I spose that's a good last resort if I mess everything else up toomuch. Might actually be WAY easier than trying to shave down and open up the standard holes (there's alot of them lilbastards) But I guess we'll jsut see how that pans out when I get around to it. Hoping to get more done with my kicks soon here.
 
Again, I thought of that too. But in order for it to look good I would need some type of rubber trim to run along the edge to give it a finished look. Well, the steps I had in my head were as follows...

Remove the entire grill area using a dremel or similar tool.
Apply a few layers of FG to the inside to keep things rigid.
Sand down the opening so it was smooth.
Glue a piece of grill cloth to the inside of the panel.
Take a rubber trim piece and run it along the edge from the inside.
When finished, the cloth will pop out just a little and stretch nicely across the opening. With out the rubber trim piece it would look recessed instead, and you would see how thin the panel was along with any blemishes in the cutting process.

The problem is, I can't find any rubber trim. I wandered around Home Depot one day but couldn't find what I was looking for. I would need like 3/8" or 1/2" wide ushaped rubber that would be used to go around the edge of a window or something.
 
wow, nicely done... that is some serious mid bass you have goin on there... and one killer soundstage i am sure... well once you have the power back and the kicks in place..
 
Okay, so I'm having probs finding time to start the glassing, but in themeantime. YIKES. this much kick upfront is SCARY. I keep flinching and reaching for the volume knob thinking I'm about to blow something, but in reality it's just clear LOUD POWERFUL sound upfront, much more than I'm accustomed to hearing in a car. I'm not sure if I should be giddy or concerned. It feels like there's gotta be a catch and I'm just waiting for it to come around.
 
The catch is...now that you've heard better...you will never be able to ride in a car again that doesn't have 8"s up front.

Its like owning a corvette as your first car...where do you go from there?

You have reached the plateau.
 
Hey man did you ever snap any pics of the glassing with your kick pannels? I'm wondering where you attached the fleece so that the panel would still attach to the car frame and have the door shut and all that. basically any pics of the back of that thing?
 
Done right it should sound great. At one time I had 8" Morel mid-bass in the front doors of my MX-6 and Image Dynamics horns under the dash. Once EQed they sounded great and had awsome imaging, but it was really tight under the dash for my feet.(shocked)
 
yeah well we apparently have to clap louder to get an encore.

Your people are waiting in the wings man. how bout a show.
 
Bah I'm lazy, toomuch on my plate. (and mostly my friends' garage has been filled with junk for the past 3months) since their house got flooded with sewage.

I spose I can try to see if the installer at work wouldn't mind letting me use his glassing area, but that would involve having time while we're open that I'm not working.

As far as fleece.... the biggest trick is don't use fleece. Grillecloth is MUCH thinner, more formable, and definately stretchier. Not to mention it will very easily fully soak through (the inside of my fleece fleece sub box is fuzzy and soft save for the seams where I rolled extra resin around) I've got a semi-elaborate system setup that I hope should work alright as far as holding the fleece in place part of it I used with my old kicks. http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79537
 
Damn. I didn't know you hadn't glassed the new ones yet. The old ones are probably the way I'll have to do mine. get that lip to tuck under the molding. But I really like the idea of using the kick pannels for mounting.

If you do get enough time can you explain how you plan on attaching whatever wrapping material you use around the edge of the kick pannel that goes under the molding. not sure how you would strengenthen that up.
 
Fleece vs. grillcloth.

Grill cloth is very thin so the resin will soak all the way through and create a nice bond with the wood or plastic you are wrapping it around. However, after one layer, you could almost poke your finger through it because it is so thin. If you have access to the rear of your panel that is fine, you can build up the back side and lay vinyl over the front face with almost no sanding! It comes out that smooth! For painting, you'll need a thin layer of bondo but sanding should be a minimum.

Fleece on the otherhand is very thick and the resin will not seep through to the other side no matter how much you glob on. It may drip through around edges but for the most part, as Poseur said, the back will be fuzzy. However, the resulting panel after a single soaking of resin is strong enough for trim panels and kick panels (provided you add some dampening material to the inside). It will require more sanding to get smooth and possibly several coats of bondo but unless you are making a subwoofer enclosure, you can probably skip adding additional layers of FG.

Somewhere in between lies plain old T-shirt material. Got some old shirts you want to recycle? They'll work great for a set of kick panels.
 
anyone on here try headliner material? i've heard it works well and soaks up resin better than fleece. i plan to try it in the next few weeks, if i get some extra time.
 
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