We've gotten along pretty good with our dealer since buying our CX-5 new in 2019. They've done all the oil changes. I do the air filter and cabin filter, but nothing else. Dealer has tried to, "push-sell" us expensive, "maintenance," like dif. oil change, too early brake fluid flush, etc. We passed on those after reading in the owner's book they are not required until later. SO.....now we just passed 50,000 miles. NO more warranty. We have a good local mechanic that does our work on other rigs, so we'll go there. I'd really like to hear what some of you have considered the FIRST and most needed services after passing 50K. Is there any special, "tune up," these cars need besides spark plugs? Etc.. Some feedback would be appreciated. Thank you, Dennis in E WA state.
2019 CX-5 Need tips on taking over maintenance after 50K miles
- Thread starter DennisT
- Start date
You should of had a brake fluid change done earlier. Like every two years unless you don't drive much. But going by your year and amount of mileage I'd say you do at least 10,000 miles per year.
I have about the same on my 2019 and I've already did the brake fluid twice. It makes a difference.
You have a way to go before plugs unless you have a turbo, then it's around 40,000 miles.
Atf drain and fill. Make sure to use the correct ATF fluid. Get it from the dealer.
I have about the same on my 2019 and I've already did the brake fluid twice. It makes a difference.
You have a way to go before plugs unless you have a turbo, then it's around 40,000 miles.
Atf drain and fill. Make sure to use the correct ATF fluid. Get it from the dealer.
Thats a good suggestion.
I think the change was around 2021, 2022. My 2019 has the old coolant so the OP's would too.
That reminds me next time I take mine in will have the coolant changed. Already did it on my 2016.
I've never purchased a new vehicle. Always has been pre-owned, often with a fair number of miles on it.
On any vehicle where I cannot actually prove the history of all maintenance, I assume that things are potentially risky. In the case of fluids, this is one area where I'm not willing to risk things. Oil/filter change, possibly a drain+refill of the coolant (DIY, if for no other reason than to check coloration [ie, milky, cloudy, dirty]). IMO, somewhere between 50-70K it's wise to do the fluid swap for the transfer case, differential and transmission (along with the filter, if north of 100Kmi). Might also be worth sending off a sample of oil and transm fluid to BlackStone Labs (or similar), to know whether you're dealing with internal issues on the engine or transmission. Overkill, likely, but it might not be in the case of unknown, unproven maintenance history.
Some might say that's needlessly pushing things, but unknown/unproven can hide a lot of problems. In the case of fluids, it's simple to get ahead of the curve and know what you're dealing with.
Engine air filter and the cabin air filter. An easy DIY check, swap if needed.
At 50Kmi, I wouldn't be too worried about belts. But then, on my own 2016 CX-5 I had the accessory belt+tensioner crap out at 94Kmi. Happened within two miles of a shop that had the parts and could immediately perform the service. I should have done this the prior year (12-15Kmi earlier).
Plugs might well be listed as a 75Kmi thing. Can wait until then, but on my own vehicle I do these earlier. It's low-cost and simple enough for a DIY swap. Good peace of mind.
Would be worth considering fuel treatment (ie, a bottle Chevron Techron in the gas tank). Possibly also a GDI intake valve treatment (ie, STP Pro intake valve cleaner), and then doing these every year or other year. (Assuming 12-15Kmi/yr driving.)
Whenever your brakes need discs and pads, it'd be worth giving the calipers a once-over, evaluating the seals and ensuring the slider pins get properly lubricated.
By 100Kmi, I'd begin watching the ball joints and suspension. The front lower control arms seem to take a lot of abuse on these cars and tend to "go south" earlier than one might expect. At 120Kmi, I just had mine done, but they'd been creaking and whatnot for the past 12-18mos. But unless you're experiencing unexplained noises with the suspension or sloppy handling, it's probably going to be awhile before these become an issue.
At 50Kmi, I can't think of many other areas on the CX-5 that would be worth worrying about. The schedule for maintenance is fairly clear on most things.
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- CX-5 Sport 16.5 6M
If your CX5 has cylinder deactivation or the turbo you might want to check this forum for related posts, but I haven't seen any other big 'gotcha' issues with the CX-5 so the maintainance schedule is all you really need.
I agree with GFrosty about the proactive approach if you intend to keep the car for a long time. At your current usage, about 10,000 miles/year, you will only be passing 100Kmi when it's about 10 years old. Do you plan on driving it longer than that?
Mazdiod2: Thank you. "Our," story is....I'm 81, wife a little younger but with decades long nuisance health issues. Obviously retired. Foreseeing many negative, costly events and attitudes in our Country, we got the Mazda. Skipped the turbo; no need for us. We live very rural; one or two cars by our place per day except when farmers are active. It's 13 miles to nearest town and I often see no other traffic. Smart to have AWD in our climate. I use the manual downshift, (when rpm's drop below 2 grand), when approaching stops. Brakes last a long time for me with all my rigs. We have older vehicles I drive every chance I get to, "save," the Mazda. So we expect this will be the last new or, "newish," car we'll ever be able to afford. So, YES, we plan to drive it as long as we can. We also have a 1989 Volvo 244 that looks and drives as new at it's 203,000 miles. I understand 240 Volvos; I don't completely understand, (yet), the CX-5. Our Volvo has had good care.
The Mazda should give you less trouble than the Volvo.
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200955
When buying a used vehicle with unknown service (any vehicle) always assume there was no maintenance on the vehicle and start from there. Record all service by date and mileage and
keep it written in a small book in the glovebox. I attach a piece of masking tape under the hood
with is info also.
1- Change the oil and filter with a good brand not something that came out of a 50 gallon barrel
at the service center and never use a cheap filter (orange color). I always use Wix filters and
Pennsoil or Mobile 1 as an example.
2- Dump all transaxle fluids and replace with new. This includes differential and All Wheel unit
if you have all wheel drive.
3- Dump and fill tranny and change filter ( although they say LIFETIME in the manual. If it were
lifetime, why have a drain plug? Some shops can change fluid completely via the coolant lines
with a machine or you can drain and fill twice because you only get a 40% fluid change each
time. Most stays in the torque convertor in the tranny. Use only OEM fluid period!
4- Evacuate the entire engine cooling system and refill with only, I repeat, ONLY OEM fluid. This
I would have done at the Mazda dealership. It might cost a bit but it's good for seven years.
5-Flush the brake system completely right off the bat and every two years after. It's not dirt but
moisture you're trying to remove. As the brakes wear and fluid levels drop moist outside air is
introduced in the master cylinder and eventually the brake lines.
6- At 50K miles, there is probably quite a bit of carbon on the intake valves that has to be
removed. I can guarantee that as mine were loaded after 35K. Walnut blasting or hand cleaning
will have to be done lest you'll have serious issues down the road - poor mileage, lost power a
and the condition of the valves give insight into the condition of the piston rings. Install a new
OEM PC-valve at the same time. Do not ignore this as this is a major issue with all direct
injection engines as a result of junk oil and fuel. We all love to save a buck, don't we. Toss
in a can of Berrymans B12 (Amazon) at the next fuel fill up to clean pistons and rings and
any debris that found it's way into the combustion chamber after the above. It'll clean the
injectors and tips as well. DO NOT use any type of spray in "snake oil" valve cleaner.
On a side note it is wise to use original parts whenever possible but keep in mind there are some
mighty fine (Made in USA) aftermarket parts. China crap is OK if your're a serious DIY'er and don't
mind doing something twice - remember "Always time to do it twice, never time to do it right".
Follow these recommendations and it will be a fresh start with many miles of reliability.
Thanks, Logidad. I've kept hand written service notes in a glove box packet file for decades, on every rig I've owned. Surprising how often that comes in handy. Also keep mechanics paperwork in; house file. I've been using NAPA Gold filters. Yes, I'm getting all fluids from Mazda dealer next week to have here.
Yes, thanks, I just might change coolant at dealer.
Now you mention, "....carbon on the intake valves....." Then, "......
Walnut blasting or hand cleaning will have to be done." I'm reading that as pulling the head in order to hand clean valves. ?????
We got this Maxda new and all fluid changes so far have been done at our dealer, (80 miles away).
Most of the things you list are items on my list. You helped a lot, thank you.
Yes, thanks, I just might change coolant at dealer.
Now you mention, "....carbon on the intake valves....." Then, "......
Walnut blasting or hand cleaning will have to be done." I'm reading that as pulling the head in order to hand clean valves. ?????
We got this Maxda new and all fluid changes so far have been done at our dealer, (80 miles away).
Most of the things you list are items on my list. You helped a lot, thank you.
HyFlyer
2019 CX5 sig 2.2 diesel / 2016.5 CX5 touring 2.5na
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- Southwest Ohio
Nah, just pull the intake (front of motor) that gives you access to the intake valves. The head stays in place.
HyFlyer
2019 CX5 sig 2.2 diesel / 2016.5 CX5 touring 2.5na
- :
- Southwest Ohio
Wow, that's quite a list. Sounds like good advice that should cover most of the bases on a pre-owned vehicle.
You seem to know a thing or two about vehicle maintenance! Have you been wrenchin' on cars awhile?
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- 2023 CX-5 2.5 Turbo AWD Auto
RIP 8/23:2013 CX-5 Sport FWD Auto 120k
I started keeping a physical binder for each of my cars. It helps so much having the part numbers right there when I need to reorder. I get a sense of satisfaction adding things to it like a scrapbook: invoices from OEM part orders, UPC/PN cutout from the part box itself, etc.
I looked up a you tube on pulling that manifold and addressing valve carbon. One video said the subject car had only approx. 28,000km on it. And the manifold ports were almost entirely closed with carbon caking. !!!!!!!!!!! Why????? We bought our 2019 CX-5 new. Dealer has done servicing, but not that one. Am I to believe at well under 50,000 miles, part of the motor has to be disassembled to clean out carbon? If that's the case, I should have purchased a different make car. What am I missing here?
