2018 CX-5 Starter starts then pauses, then cranks till it starts

[SkibumJoe]

It's a 2018 Touring with about 86K miles. The battery was replaced by the dealership about 2 years ago. This just started happening the last week, after nightime temps drop below 50°F / 10°C. I don't turn any lights, heater, or accessories on before I start. I push the start button and you hear the starter turn for one second then it stops. I release the button, and push it again. Then it cranks over normally. As the day progresses, it starts normally after that. I plan to put a voltmeter on the battery & clean the terminals. tomorrow.
Any suggestions on what to test next? Would a starter develop a "flat" spot on it?
Thanks in advance
Joe

 

[GrampaSlade]

I would check all connections to and from the battery and starter and points in between. Are your headlights by chance pointed at a wall or something? Turn them on first, then see what happens. A newish battery doesn't mean it's a good battery.

 

[erhayes]

+1 connections.

 

[Mazdiod2]

A starter can develope a bad spot but I think it's kind of unusual. Make sure the battery is fully charged, it sounds like it could be low, despite being replaced two years ago.

 

[SkibumJoe]

Voltage on the battery was 12.2vdc. I turned lights on, they were normal bright. Started the car. Lugged as usual. Lights dimmed and went off. I had to do it twice to start. Cleaned the terminals. Put cables back on. Car won't start. Voltage at 11.8. I'm waiting for a family member to bring back a trickle charger. I'l leave that on for a couple hours. The positive cable on my volt meter is about to break off. Cheap Chinese from Amazon. Lucky I have the car in a garage with the front pointing out.

 

[Jmaz]

This starting behavior reminds me of a "dragging" starter, where the starter armature is binding. The term comes from when the armature bearings(bushings actually) were worn to the point where the armature "drags" against the field windings. A starter current draw test would reveal this. The lights would also dim a lot from the excessive current load the starter is imposing.
The intermittent starting aspect is consistent with fouled contacts in the starter solenoid.

 

[Lazy2.5]

When the car is hooked to the trickle, does it start normally? If not, it's probably the connections.

 

[Mazdiod2]

Voltage on the battery was 12.2vdc. I turned lights on, they were normal bright. Started the car. Lugged as usual. Lights dimmed and went off. I had to do it twice to start. Cleaned the terminals. Put cables back on. Car won't start. Voltage at 11.8. I'm waiting for a family member to bring back a trickle charger. I'l leave that on for a couple hours. The positive cable on my volt meter is about to break off. Cheap Chinese from Amazon. Lucky I have the car in a garage with the front pointing out.

You should have 12.6v for a charged battery at room temperature.

 

[vrsick]

Always start with the battery. I use this to test all car batteries at home. (Topdon BT100).
Or, go to your nearest Napa, they will test your battery for free. If battery is good, look for corroded connections from battery to starter.
Another thing to look for, is mice in the engine compartment. It just happened to my other 2018 CX-5. Luckily I caught it on time. The mice used the insulation from the motor cover.

 

[Mazdiod2]

I'l leave that on for a couple hours.

Leave it on for a couple of days.... per month.

 

[ceric]

Sounds like a bad/weak battery to me.
Just replaced the AGM Q85 (w/ iEloop) battery of my '16 Mazda6 GT. Before that, when starting, the starter struggled a bit and then a couple turns later, it started up. With new battery, no struggling. The previous AGM lasted 6 yrs. AGM is required for Mazdas w/ iEloop or iStop.

 

[skid00skid0]

You don't hold the start button down, you just tap it.