The right rear caliper on my wife's 2013 CX-5 Touring seized after 110k miles and left the pads/rotor in a metal-on-metal state. I followed the excellent rear brake pad/rotor replacement guide at Paul's Travel Pictures for the majority of the procedure. I'm posting this thread to add some info on replacing the caliper itself. The caliper is attached to the car by the brake hose and the parking brake cable.
I removed the caliper from the parking brake cable first in order to reduce the amount of time that the hydraulic brake line was detached from the caliper. I used a large channel-lock pliers to rotate the lower mount toward the upper mount in order to remove the tail end of the cable from its retainer. The upper mount is held in place by a one-way clip with 8(?) prongs that need to be compressed at the same time in order to slide through the mounting hole.
I slid a small radiator hose clamp over the end of the cable until it was partially covering the prongs, then tightened the clamp to compress the prongs. Once the prongs were compressed enough to fit through the mounting hole, I loosened and removed the clamp and slid the cable out through the mounting hole.
The brake line attaches to the caliper with a 13mm(?) banjo bolt. I removed the banjo bolt from the old caliper and installed it on the new caliper with new washers. The hose has a locator pin that gets inserted in a hole on the caliper.
The parking brake cable slides into the upper mounting hole on the new caliper until it is firmly seated and the prongs hold it in place. I used a large channel-lock pliers to rotate the lower mount toward the upper mount to insert the tail end of the cable in the lower cable mount.
After reinstalling everything onto the car, I bled the rear calipers (10mm bleed screw) with the Motive bleeder I've used for years on my BMWs. The BMW cap adapter worked on my old Mazda5, but I bought the https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) to use on the CX-5. It fit perfectly with the thinner of the two provided rubber washers. Everything's back together and operating smoothly again--except that I noticed that the right rear sway bar link is broken. That will be next week's project.
I removed the caliper from the parking brake cable first in order to reduce the amount of time that the hydraulic brake line was detached from the caliper. I used a large channel-lock pliers to rotate the lower mount toward the upper mount in order to remove the tail end of the cable from its retainer. The upper mount is held in place by a one-way clip with 8(?) prongs that need to be compressed at the same time in order to slide through the mounting hole.
I slid a small radiator hose clamp over the end of the cable until it was partially covering the prongs, then tightened the clamp to compress the prongs. Once the prongs were compressed enough to fit through the mounting hole, I loosened and removed the clamp and slid the cable out through the mounting hole.
The brake line attaches to the caliper with a 13mm(?) banjo bolt. I removed the banjo bolt from the old caliper and installed it on the new caliper with new washers. The hose has a locator pin that gets inserted in a hole on the caliper.
The parking brake cable slides into the upper mounting hole on the new caliper until it is firmly seated and the prongs hold it in place. I used a large channel-lock pliers to rotate the lower mount toward the upper mount to insert the tail end of the cable in the lower cable mount.
After reinstalling everything onto the car, I bled the rear calipers (10mm bleed screw) with the Motive bleeder I've used for years on my BMWs. The BMW cap adapter worked on my old Mazda5, but I bought the https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) to use on the CX-5. It fit perfectly with the thinner of the two provided rubber washers. Everything's back together and operating smoothly again--except that I noticed that the right rear sway bar link is broken. That will be next week's project.
