2013 CX-5 Diesel 2.2L drove 3000km with the wrong oil

Hi all,

I am the new owner of a 2013 CX-5 diesel 2.2.
I realized after reading the last service invoice that the oil they put in is 10W40 instead of recommended 5W30. that was 2800km ago.
I will fix that tomorrow, replacing the oil and the oil filter, and since I'm there I will do the air and diesel filters too, can't hurt. And have a look at my EGR, might be dirty.

Does someone know what could be the harm done to the car ?

I have a car that drives beautifully at high speed or high acceleration. Also drives good when I completely release the accelerator.
But when I drive low speed with the foot a little bit on the accelerator (like below 50 km/h) it drives s***, like if the car was constantely braking and reaccelerationg and breaking and accelerating.... Not all the times, sometimes more than other.
The same happens when I'm on parking mode: when I slowly press the accelerator until 2200 rpm the RPM oscillates a lot and engine runs rough. Above 2200 RPM it is all fine.

Any clue what's happening here ? I follow the video that shows how to reset the learning stuff.... the procedure worked but didn't solve my problem.
Thanks
 
If you really want to know exactly you could have an oil analysis done. So you could save a small sample of the used oil to send in and it will tell you the wear metals in the oil.

It doesn't seem likely that the difference of 10w-40 vs 5w-30 over a short period of time would cause any problem in wear, but I wonder what it might mean to the CVV valve mechanism, which might use oil pressure to operate.

As far as the rough running, you didn't mention how many miles you have and other particulars like the temperature. Maybe after you have the filters changed you will have a better idea. Do diesels use injector cleaner periodically? Are you getting any engine warnings or codes?
 
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Until recently I owned a CX5 diesel 2.2 same engine as yours for 8 years and before that another CX5 diesel company car for 2 years, so I speak with some experience and knowledge of those engines and the oil they require.

Most members on this forum are in the US and the US never got the 2.2D in the CX5 so they wont have experience with that engine. Eu and Asia did get it.

The MOST IMPORTANT THING is an oil that meets the Mazda SAPS spec. Refer to the owners manual as it may vary slightly in your country.

The 2012-2019 2.2D specs call for oil that meets the JASO DL1 or ACEA C1 specs. These are full synthetic LOW SAPS oils - low Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur.

If you do not use low SAPS spec oil it will clog up the dpf and engine emissions components and not provide the protection this engine requires.

VERY IMPORTANT to use the right spec JASO DL-1 or C1 spec oil.

Most oil companies have a “find my oil” system on their websites to help you input your vehicle details and find the right oil that suits your car.

So thats the #1 most important requirement. The weight is then secondary to the DL-1/ or C1 spec. Generally DL-1 has been superseded by C1 spec so look for that


Here in Australia I always used Penrite Enviro+ C1 which only comes as a 5W 30 weight, so perfect match for the Mazda diesel.

So change the oil to a good quality C1 spec oil, then pick the 5W 30 weight if thats the recommended weight as per the temp range in your country.

I would use a good quality oil flush and then change the oil. This should help remove any sludge etc before the new correct spec oil goes in.

You MUST THEN RESET THE OIL DATA. Dealers can do this using their scan tool, but there also a procedure in your owners manual that you can do that involves pressing the mileage reset stalk with the engine nit running - I cant remember exactly how to do it but it has to be done or you will get engine fault codes coming up before long.

I strongly recommend doing oil changes every 5000kms if you want a long trouble free life from this engine. Eg at half the recommended distance.
 
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Oh and for the rough running, try a double dose of an injector/dpf cleaner and see if that helps. Always gave mine a single dose after each oil change but a double dose can help with problems. Then a maintenance dose every 5000kms.

Nulon, Penrite, Liqui Moly all make good ones.
 
@Lo131 , I wouldn't worry about the 10w40 oil use for that short time. Follow Moonlighter's advice above on the oil and fuel injector cleaner to start with. Check out the FORscan app for your phone to monitor your car's condition.

... and the US never got the 2.2D in the CX5...
Mazda sold somewhere around 1,000 - 1,500 2.2d 2019 cx5 signature here in the US. It was the only year and model for Mazda diesel here.
 
But when I drive low speed with the foot a little bit on the accelerator (like below 50 km/h) it drives s***, like if the car was constantely braking and reaccelerationg and breaking and accelerating.... Not all the times, sometimes more than other.
The same happens when I'm on parking mode: when I slowly press the accelerator until 2200 rpm the RPM oscillates a lot and engine runs rough. Above 2200 RPM it is all fine.
Dirty or sticking throttle body?
 
Thanks all for the answers. The info I forget to give/
- the car is 67.000 km (imported from japan.... they dont drive much there°
- No fault code with my chinese OBD2 reader. Brought the car to a proper mechanic with a proper diag tool: No fault code either
- oil temp around 90°C, I think that the confort zone of diesel engines

I bought LIQUI MOLY synthetic 5W30 and new filters. Will do oil change tomorrow and will try to find out how to reset oil data (my manual is in japanese but I'll search the web). Thanks Moolighter for the tip. I'll also try injector cleaner and will keep you updated.
 
Thanks all for the answers. The info I forget to give/
- the car is 67.000 km (imported from japan.... they dont drive much there°
- No fault code with my chinese OBD2 reader. Brought the car to a proper mechanic with a proper diag tool: No fault code either
- oil temp around 90°C, I think that the confort zone of diesel engines

I bought LIQUI MOLY synthetic 5W30 and new filters. Will do oil change tomorrow and will try to find out how to reset oil data (my manual is in japanese but I'll search the web). Thanks Moolighter for the tip. I'll also try injector cleaner and will keep you updated.
Was it this C1 spec? Thats the really important thing.

Low ks not surprising In Japan. The public transport system there is so good cars arent used that much. And the distances arent big either.

 
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Im pretty sure the oil data reset is done as follows:

Without your foot on the brake (so the engine doesnt start, press and hold down the stalk in the instrument cluster (the one for resetting trips) and while holding it, press the start button twice so it puts the car into accessory mode. Keep holding the stalk down until the orange engine light flashes rapidly a few times. Done.
 
The service reset is in the infotainment system.

Can you also do it with the stalk? That's a trick I haven't heard of.
 
The service reset is in the infotainment system.

Can you also do it with the stalk? That's a trick I haven't heard of.
Not the same thing at all.

The infotainment thing is basically just a service reminder.

The diesel oil data reset is an entirely different thing and is resetting the oil data in the ecu. If you dont do it an engine fault code will be the result.
 
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Was it this C1 spec? Thats the really important thing.
Good grief, please don't get so caught up with the oil spec thing. Most any oil will work just fine. I would probably use something diesel specific though Like shell Rotella.
 
Hi all,

I am the new owner of a 2013 CX-5 diesel 2.2.
I realized after reading the last service invoice that the oil they put in is 10W40 instead of recommended 5W30. that was 2800km ago.
I will fix that tomorrow, replacing the oil and the oil filter, and since I'm there I will do the air and diesel filters too, can't hurt. And have a look at my EGR, might be dirty.

Does someone know what could be the harm done to the car ?

I have a car that drives beautifully at high speed or high acceleration. Also drives good when I completely release the accelerator.
But when I drive low speed with the foot a little bit on the accelerator (like below 50 km/h) it drives s***, like if the car was constantely braking and reaccelerationg and breaking and accelerating.... Not all the times, sometimes more than other.
The same happens when I'm on parking mode: when I slowly press the accelerator until 2200 rpm the RPM oscillates a lot and engine runs rough. Above 2200 RPM it is all fine.

Any clue what's happening here ? I follow the video that shows how to reset the learning stuff.... the procedure worked but didn't solve my problem.
Thanks
Conclusion: a lubricant with SAE 5W-30 will behave better when cold than a lubricant with SAE 10W-40. In contrast, oils with a higher SAE after the W generate thicker films of lubricant and better protect the mechanical parts when the vehicle is already hot. As for the other problems I really believe they are a result of carbon build up.
 
Good grief, please don't get so caught up with the oil spec thing. Most any oil will work just fine. I would probably use something diesel specific though Like shell Rotella.
Good grief - you clearly have no idea about the importance of a low SAPS spec oil in a modern diesel that uses a dpf and associated diesel emissions tech.

See how much it costs to replace a clogged up dpf…. Thousands of $ ….

Which is what WILL happen when the wrong spec oil is used. See below what Valvoline says about this and you will learn something useful.


Mazda (or any other manufacturer) will reject a warranty claim because the engine is sludged up and the clogged dpf created excessive back pressure that damaged the engine - all due to incorrect use of a high SAPS oil.
 
Not sure why you're getting so bent out of shape. He DID say:
Lol, I mean honestly.

Warranty matters aside, with their nitpicky little oil requirements, I assure you can most any decent oil into your car, (preferably one that specific to diesel or gasoline, not one that's formulated for "both") , and have no issues whatsoever. You're free to also go up / down an oil grade or two also with zero issues whatsoever.

Indeed, being specific over all these oil specifications means little in comparison to how often you change your oil and how you actually treat the engine, day in day out.
 

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