2008 Mazda5 Head Unit Died --> Android?

[Silentnoise713]

These are the settings for the 2014 Mazda 5 that work for me on Otojeta radio from 2020.

For the 2008 Mazda 5 I used to have, the box came pre-configured with the stereo, I didn't even have to dive into the factory settings to select this.

Thanks for showing your box: MZD-RZ-05; SW: V0106.
I wonder how different is it from MZ-SS-06; SW: V1.01..? Note this box has two different dates 20200714 vs 20190710 in the Russian video.

If you scroll down, do you see more options? Did you try to set it to "3" (Mazda 3) to see what/if any different option/experience exist?


I am fairly certain all Canbus signals are decoded in the latest box (I'm guessing which box and version will determine how much/up-to-date it is). What I'm hoping to see is software option to interpret and ability to control the display via the Android unit or OEM display panel (clock and radio area). Think Android units that are design as OEM replacements for current cars (ex. latest gen BMW) that includes controlling HVAC, etc.

Mazda CAN Bus – Madox.NET

www.madox.net

For example, Mazda has steering angle in canbus (+'06 Mz3, not sure how far back it covers). It is simply a matter of the Android developer to translate the steering angle to steering lines and superimpose it on the screen when the backup signal is triggered to show projected steering lines when backing up.

 

[Silentnoise713]

Check the reviews (and pics) for Canbus RP5-MZ-002 (V2.20.007CYN, Date: 20221229). Technically for 2004-2009 MAZDA 3/ AXELA and 2014 MAZDA/CX-7 but I'm willing to bet it should work exactly the same for Mazda5/Premacy (you might need to change the Android's car Model and CAN Type to experiment. It's also possible your specific Android's firmware does not support Canbus functionality very well.

 

[hleboklop]

Check the reviews (and pics) for Canbus RP5-MZ-002 (V2.20.007CYN, Date: 20221229). Technically for 2004-2009 MAZDA 3/ AXELA and 2014 MAZDA/CX-7 but I'm willing to bet it should work exactly the same for Mazda5/Premacy (you might need to change the Android's car Model and CAN Type to experiment. It's also possible your specific Android's firmware does not support Canbus functionality very well.

I scrolled through my purchase history. When I purchased teyes, I bought this cable that worked out of the box (other than I rewired the key1 wire, which wasn't necessary). I also purchased this harness for connecting the second (front) camera and second sim card.

 

[Silentnoise713]

Does the Canbus unit have an IP address you can logon/configure? Some of the links you ref above appear to be Russian, hope you can understand this and help translate it. It does look like he has another module (exposed board) plugged in but can't understand what he's saying

Mazda 3 bk. Подбираю рабочий "CanBus" для китайской магнитолы "Junsun".

Всем привет ! Продолжение истории с подключением и настройкой Canbus (канбас) цель которой было добиться оптимальной работы и возможности отображения остатка...

www.youtube.com

Still can't fully understand but found what he is using from another video. It's a custom Canbus decoder created be a fellow Russian, not avail here. You connect to the PJCAN via wifi (EDIT: Bluetooth!) connection to configure it on any browser on any device. This is nicer to have than a standalone Android unit (EIDT: must be used with an Android unit), and definitely complements it for a full seamless setup, IMO. I wonder if RP5-MZ-002 offers something similar functionality b/c the reviews/pics seem to show it has some ability to access it to config and change clock display (might depend on the Android unit's firmware capability).

What tasks does PJCAN solve :
- The most important task is the operation of the on-board computer! Now you can switch the information display (LCD) to the consumption mode (INFO), switch readings and set the clock, as it was with the standard GU;
- Steering wheel buttons now work without dancing with a tambourine! They can be programmed! Supports double, triple press and hold of the button;
- Information display (LCD) is no longer a dull city, but with the inscription "Navi System". With the PJCAN 4.0 adapter, you can display any information on it. Would you like to display your nickname or logo, please! Do you want it to greet you when you start the car, please! Do you want to see information about the state of the internal combustion engine, or consumption, or the status of open doors, or ..., or much more, please!
- For owners of the Bose amplifier, all the functionality of this device is now available. The music played like with a regular GU and maybe even better;
- No need to be the master of GU and cars, just replace the Chinese friend (adapter) with PJCAN 4.0. You don’t even have to throw out the box, PJCAN fits perfectly in it!

PJCAN

Канбас адаптер PJCAN 4.0 for Mazda

Привет! 👋 У тебя MAZDA 3 BK и ты решил заменить штатное головное (мультимедийное) устройство (ГУ). Или у тебя уже стоит "балалайка" на операционной системе (ОС) Android, но не работает бо…

www.drive2.ru

Mazda 3 bk. ОТОБРАЖЕНИЕ РАСХОДА НА БОРТОВОМ КОМПЬЮТЕРЕ С КИТАЙСКОЙ МАГНИТОЛОЙ, РАБОТАЕТ !!!

Всем привет ! В этом видео рассказываю\показываю как сделал отображение расхода бензина на бортовом компьютере. Получилось не совсем, как хотелось бы, но это...

www.youtube.com

Note how the HVAC controls menu pop up when a HVAC button is pushed, you should be able to change settings on screen (EDIT: it is only ONE-way display and not interactive). It disappears b/c the firmware is not built to have the HVAC controls on full time as it takes up space (need tesla style screen for more space).

Видео отзыв

Константин рассказывает об адаптере PJCAN 4.0

www.youtube.com

 

[hleboklop]

In the first video, he was configuring what seems to be an ordinary CANBUS box, which is available from Chinese sellers.

I've checked with the PJCAN developer, and he says, the device was developed in-house, and he's actively working on adding new features to the firmware. According to him, some features are currently not available for gen2, and he's going to try to add some in the following months. I assume this box would work with gen1.

Ordering from Russia is going to be a problem, as due to the sanctions there might be some difficulties accepting payment from and shipping overseas. The box itself currently retails for ~$50 in Russia.

I hope he'll join this forum sometime later.

 

[Tinah]

Hello, sorry for the wait, here's the information you might need:
"Canbus box" is hooked in between the android unit and the car interface. This is a modular design by Chinese, since there are a lot of different implementations of canbus functionality in the cars.
1. I'll go check settings and post here.

2. But generally speaking, you don't have much choice with the Chinese canbus controllers. Canbus box interacts with the head unit, receiving information such as "what mode is it: radio or navigation software now?" and displays this information on the led screen of the car.
The same with the keys, it acts as a weird interpreter between the keys and the android functionality.
I don't think you can control AC via the canbus in these cars, and even if you can, I don't need "ok google, turn on the AC" functionality.

3. And with teyes, it comes already preconfigured to match the car / android device communication protocols. It was almost plug and play in my case, I just didn't want to control the buttons via canbus, but chose to control these directly, hence, rewired key1 to android stereo instead of to the canbus box.

4. The canbus box doesn't have a networking interface, it talks to the android stereo over rs-something, I guess. The holes on the box are the guides to 5 pins, which is jtag or rs or similar connector, I believe.

5. The links can be translated with google translate, I checked, the translation makes sense. Just right click anywhere on the page and select "translate to English".
The guy in the video is talking about how to wire and configure a canbus box to make the buttons in his car work through the canbus rather than key1 wire.

6. I think there are two "key" wires in mazda5 with BT functionality, I believe. One goes to the OEM stereo to control "up", "down", "vol+", "vol-" and another is for "pick up the phone", "hang up" and "voice button". In such situations, controlling the buttons via canbus is easier to wire.

Bottom line: if you go for teyes, you won't have to mess with canbus wiring and configuration (like what those videos are about), it's already working out of the box. You'll only have to either find or build a proper harness.

Hallo,
I would like to ask you whether you have (or could mi give an advise where to find) 20 pins scheme for mzd-rz-05 (something like in attached picture. I am looking for it for ages..

Thanks a lot.

 

[hleboklop]

Hallo,
I would like to ask you whether you have (or could mi give an advise where to find) 20 pins scheme for mzd-rz-05 (something like in attached picture. I am looking for it for ages..

Thanks a lot.

Hello, try using Google translate here:

Прошу совета знающих и опытных людей.

Прошу помощи. Купил я год назад магнитолу Teyes. Поборол проблему нефункционировавших кнопок руля. Сейчас все норм. Остался лишь вопрос в настройке штатного усилка. Прочитал бортжурнал www.dr…

www.drive2.ru

I believe this is the schematics you're looking for.
They are also suggesting swapping two wires to avoid draining the battery (acc vs bat?)

 

[Tinah]

Hello, try using Google translate here:

Прошу совета знающих и опытных людей.

Прошу помощи. Купил я год назад магнитолу Teyes. Поборол проблему нефункционировавших кнопок руля. Сейчас все норм. Остался лишь вопрос в настройке штатного усилка. Прочитал бортжурнал www.dr…

www.drive2.ru

I believe this is the schematics you're looking for.
They are also suggesting swapping two wires to avoid draining the battery (acc vs bat?)

Thanks a lot, you are great

 

[Silentnoise713]

@SuperClust I went Janky (sort of). Figure I close this thread with some factual data in a TL: DR update. In short, there are a different variation of PCBs and components that can be spec’d –and YGWYPF still applies. Prices have dropped so I settled on the next best (*cheap*) unit @$140 (stay <$150).. Change default the stock launcher to Vivid launcher (much better UI) BUT be aware that if you integrate Vivid to Google Maps and Spotify (for example), the boot loader will include these apps! Stock launcher does not so it boots more quickly – choose your poison. Bench testing so far but I LOVE it, touch and response is fluid, better than a lot of OEM systems! Zlink allows full wired/wireless Carplay and screen mirroring (.25-.5s delay). There are a TON of things to unlock in Factory Settings, a lot I have no clue. DSP has a ton of flexibility -wow. My main concern is with durability against summer heat and knowing sound will be marginally acceptable (least of my concerns, as long as I can hear it).


PCB Layout

AMP: https://toshiba.semicon-storage.com...t_en_20220727.pdf?did=29411&prodName=TCB001HQ
DSP: https://www.akm.com/content/dam/doc...-processor/ak7604vq/ak7604vq-en-datasheet.pdf
Capacitor: https://www.aillen.com/data/upload/20230111/63be376fd4827.pdf


Geekbench Score: sprd uis8581a2h10_Automotive - Geekbench

Make sense to compare it against the latest Android (scrolling down to compare against lower spec phones makes more sense but it wouldn’t be as dramatic )


CPUZ



This unit’s board is somewhat new’er (2020-2021?) and not well known on XDA but I’d file it under mid grade of the janky spectrum (solder quality, flux residue, components not the best). In general, it seems units based on FYT board is the best starting point. I decided to add a fan (zip ties FTW, tested case fan but it is too loud and I don't want to buy another) and add extra small heat sink on amp side. Waiting for the Canbus to arrive for the real fun

 

[Silentnoise713]

I think this is important to call out. First thing I did was run CPUZ and Geekbench. Note that with the stock build, it is consuming ~2.5 GB memory!.. Android itself takes a chunk of memory and the bloatware makes it worst. Anything less than 4GB (bare min) is shooting yourself in the foot.



EDIT:
PJCan canbus Guide: - Mazda5 PJCan 4.1 Canbus

 

[Silentnoise713]

Can’t believe another year has come and gone…

TLDR Summary: Yes, I would buy it again and recommend it *IF* you are looking for something in the budget range (there will be limitations). $140 to my door for 6gb ram, 128GB storage, ARM Cortex A55: 4@1.2+ 4@1.6, + mic/AHD backup cam/OEM bezel kit. For this price range, I knew the amp chip, receiver chip, DSP chip, and capacitor are NOT the greatest but they all far exceeded my expectations. At today’s market price, I’d expect you can get even more for your money (not counting potential tariff impact) – Moore’s Law.


It’s been great and I really enjoy using/looking at it every day. For anyone looking to buy an Android unit and plan to keep the car longer term, shop around for a higher end unit. Unlike Androids of the past where all systems need to cold boot taking 45s~1min, all new ones have soft-boot options meaning it can start right up and auto-reconnect CarPlay and resume playing your music and GPS within seconds (~4-5s) -no complaints. You config system shutdown time but obviously this adds some parasitic current draw; mine is set for 24hr and it is a non issue.

System has NEVER crashed. Quite the opposite, it has been a great experience and super reliable! I think folks who settled on really low spec units had horrible experiences and anecdotal experiences become internet facts. My fears of summer heat killing it also turns out to be more speculation than reality. Note, I did add my own mini fan on the back (1 fan = draw air out, not blow in). Also, in the dog days of summer the AC is always on, which keeps the dash coo -enough. In addition, the OEM dash pocket is a HUGE hole with an Android only taking the outer face, which means a lot of space for air to move. Finally, as a matter of coincidence, the 9” units flair out slightly (it's really just poor fit b/c screen is wider than the space allows) and catches air from the center vents, which channel air to the side of the screen – didn’t expect that.

Sound is 100x better than the crappy OEM Clarion system and I had a GT, which came with a better unit than the Sport/Touring. Make sure you buy a unit with DSP -this should be mandatory. The pair of Alpines up front hit lows I never knew was possible. I now understand they are able to produce sound by increasing Gain (you can set in Factory Setting) vs Volume in traditional amp setup. Gain increase + DSP (EQ/FX) control produces surprising sound! It is not good enough for audiophiles, but this is silly debate in a car. It is definitely loud enough for 99% of the avg car owner but I will say it lack ‘high’ end (loud) volume, which I don’t care for. Radio, not sure what this is..

While the hardware is a great bang for the buck, I don’t like this vendors stock build – this is what you are stuck with and why you should consider buying a ‘name’ brand b/c they will provide support to fix bugs/enhancements/answer basic questions. I chose this expecting to never to make system changes as long as it is stable (unknow gamble) -it is stable. Based on some of the other interfaces I’ve seen, I’d say this generic company’s is garbage. One thing that really irked me with this unit is the limited Bluetooth setting/control -it is not well thought out and very limiting. Zlink app (wireless CarPlay) is not 100% stable. Well, it was very stable in the beginning months, then I stated to mess with Factory Settings (broke a few things), and since restoring features, it sometimes randomly drops CarPlay connections. I’m not sure if the issue is b/c I mucked with it or something with Zlink or iOS or the Bluetooth hardware/software. However, I’ve also found there is a common problem with CarPlay (Apple) not playing nice with Android (Google) even with many OEM system. Restore by going to settings and reconnecting and 'usually' stays reconnected for a long while (or not).


You gotta pay to play:

https://www.amazon.com (commissions earned)