2000 626 engine replacement 2.5 V6

You need to know I'm new to Mazda's (piston engines), had a 93 Rx7 a few years back.
I have a 2000 626 manual transmission, the engine has imploded and I need to replace it. What I don't know is what engine can I use. I see a ton of JDM engines but they seem to be for earlyer cars, but I see rebuild kits which cover 93 to 02 so I wondering what's up with that ? Can I use one of the older long blocks and bolt on my left over equipment ?
 
you can use any 99 or newer 626 engine or 99-2003 2.0 protege engine.Any of the older 2.0 have distributers.The 626 engines are usually cheaper to find
 
you can use any 99 or newer 626 engine or 99-2003 2.0 protege engine.Any of the older 2.0 have distributers.The 626 engines are usually cheaper to find

So If I understand you correctly, 99 or newer 2.5 V6 / out of a 626..
and a 99 - 2003 2.0 which is a V6 ?? or
a 4 Cyl ??? Sorry for the follow up
lame as* question (boom08)
 
ok its a v6, gotch ya.i thin all the v-6's were the same throught the years.they were in the 626, mx-6,and i think the mx-3 too.
 
ok its a v6, gotch ya.i thin all the v-6's were the same throught the years.they were in the 626, mx-6,and i think the mx-3 too.
thanks msp5,
I don't know about the V6 engines, I know you can buy a rebuild kit and it looks like it fits 93 to 02. That suggests there close to being the same but doesn't by any means confirm it.
I talked to tiger JDM engines and they said the 97 engine wouldn't work.. They may have to say that because its an older engine or maybe there's just a small overcome-able difference... I'm looking for a replacement engine, great if its JDM but cost and mileage is important as well. ..
Any other ideas ??? (thinkbeer
 
Ok...let me straighten this out for you..


98+ 2.5 V6 out of ONLY a 626 will be the only engine you can drop into your car without changing anything.

the 98+ Millenia 2.5 V6 is still a distributor car just like the 95-97 Millenias.

The 93-97 Probe 2.5 v6 and the 2g Mx6 V6 motors are the same, but are not the same as the 98+ 626 V6 like your car has in it.

The V6 mx3 is a 1.8l and is different from the others as well.

The 2.0l is a 4-cylinder (the FSDE/ZE) unless you get a KFZE which is a 2.0l V6, but that will not work for you either.

This information is for the USDM motors..the JDM motors will not be a direct drop-in either..

So..you can only use a 98+ 626 V6 if you want to simply drop a motor in and go. Any questions feel free to ask.
 
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Ok...let me straighten this out for you..


98+ 2.5 V6 out of ONLY a 626 will be the only engine you can drop into your car without changing anything.

the 98+ Millenia 2.5 V6 is still a distributor car just like the 95-97 Millenias.

The 93-97 Probe 2.5 v6 and the 2g Mx6 V6 motors are the same, but are not the same as the 98+ 626 V6 like your car has in it.

The V6 mx3 is a 1.8l and is different from the others as well.

The 2.0l is a 4-cylinder (the FSDE/ZE) unless you get a KFZE which is a 2.0l V6, but that will not work for you either.

This information is for the USDM motors..the JDM motors will not be a direct drop-in either..

So..you can only use a 98+ 626 V6 if you want to simply drop a motor in and go. Any questions feel free to ask.

Thanks,
can the JDM engines 93 to 97, can that be installed, I understand they are different but what needs to be done ? Do they have a regular distributor or a DIS system ?? I noticed the 93 to 97 don't have a cam sensor behind the cam gear like my engine does but my guess is one could install one with out too much trouble.. Maybe LOL If I can use one of the 93 to 97 engines it makes it much easier to find a used unit...
I'm thinking of repairing this engine, it lost a head gasket and scuffed up one piston just a little bit but the crank and rod bearing look great along with the cylinders ( just a little scuff here and there). I am bidding on an eBay engine which has a bad rod bearing a 2001. I was thinking I could use the heads and maybe one piston, I guess I will need to make sure its the same weight etc... I'm worried about using the heads off my engine since they got so hot, don't want to drop a valve seat 200 hundred miles down the road.. I'm thinking when something gets that hot pressed in parts tend to fall out sooner or later. ... I don't know how the mazda engines react after getting hot, sure the head is likely twisted and warped.
Well fill me in on the JDM units
Thanks a ton..
John
 
You could use one, but it would be a downgrade..they are hydraulic lifter motors instead of solid, and have a much more restrictive manifold (though you could use your old one.

However, you would have to re-wire the car for a distributor instead of your coil pack.
You would also have to install the cam sensor, along with change your tps, because the tps on the newer motors is different (i don't know if the range is even the same). You also may have to do something about the crank trigger wheel.

Honestly..it is way more work than it is worth IMO.. You are best off finding a KLG4 motor to drop in.

What I would do is take the heads off and have them checked to see if they warped or not. You would be surprised how hard it is to warp them, I have overheated a motor to the point that it shut off and would not even start...and the heads were still fine. Find a piston/rod or whatever you need to put the bottom end together provided your block can be honed and re-used, then take your heads and use them.

The JDM units will be the same amount of work as a USDM motor..
 
You could use one, but it would be a downgrade..they are hydraulic lifter motors instead of solid, and have a much more restrictive manifold (though you could use your old one.

However, you would have to re-wire the car for a distributor instead of your coil pack.
You would also have to install the cam sensor, along with change your tps, because the tps on the newer motors is different (i don't know if the range is even the same). You also may have to do something about the crank trigger wheel.

Honestly..it is way more work than it is worth IMO.. You are best off finding a KLG4 motor to drop in.

What I would do is take the heads off and have them checked to see if they warped or not. You would be surprised how hard it is to warp them, I have overheated a motor to the point that it shut off and would not even start...and the heads were still fine. Find a piston/rod or whatever you need to put the bottom end together provided your block can be honed and re-used, then take your heads and use them.

The JDM units will be the same amount of work as a USDM motor..

Thank you sounds like excellent advice and I will repair my engine etc... John (yes)
 
Up-date,
I put the engine together, new rings, bearings. I put a mic to the crank and it was good. I got a cool cross-hatch hone on the cylinders and cranked her up. I had a little trouble getting it started but when it did it ran nice.
One big issue,,,
I didn't have coolant or water in the engine and ran it only for 2 minuter at a time with hours in-between. I noticed a puff of smoke comming from the engine water inlet. Did some testing and found the heads weren't sealing. I pumped air into the cooling system and found the two center cylinder adjoining points leaking :eek:

bottom line the heads are warped !
I removed the heads and could see the leaking and borrowed a straight edge to confirm.
Good news is the engine did sound sweet and smooth despite the leaks, I'm going to have the heads surfaced and everything should be fine.
More to come :eek:
 
just be careful and find out how much they have to take off. If they have to take too much off then they will not work because then the intake manifold will not seat properly and also the timing belt will be loose.
 
just be careful and find out how much they have to take off. If they have to take too much off then they will not work because then the intake manifold will not seat properly and also the timing belt will be loose.
(flash)
Thanks,
I have another set of heads which are flat, maybe I'll need to use them. This engine didn't overheat, it lost a rod bearing....
 
should be fine then..

I am purposely building this project on a budget, and should have known to look harder at the heads. I would have used the other heads but they had a layer of harden sludge on them. I was just to lazy to clean them, well I'm cleaning them now (shocked) (omg)
 
Update,
I got the second set of heads installed and he engine is running well. I'm surprised how smooth the engine runs at idle. The oil pressure is good, the lifters are quiet as well as the exhaust (by design). The rings seated instantly, not a bit of smoke, but steel rings normally seat just by rotating the engine. I drove the car for about an hour with no issues (knock on wood (wow) ). When driving I was keeping the rpm under 4k, didn't want to push my luck (boom01).
Thanks for the help ! (second)
 
Glad to help get you on the road. The rings wont seat from you just turning the engine over by hand because there is no load on them. 90% of ring seating comes in the first 10-20 miles on the engine. Enjoy!
 
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