I took the car to a car wash yesterday. As I was pulling in, it died. My dashhawk told me a high voltage code and high fuel pressure in rail. Not too sure what the other one was. (I know it would help) Anyhow, I popped the hood to find smoke bellowing from under the airbox. (I have the corksport FMIC) I quickly unhooked the battery. I pulled off the airbox to find coils # 1 & 2 were melting. I removed my SB2 thinking it had gone bad and tried to start it again. As soon as I turned the key to the on possition, without cranking, the coils began to burn again. I called a flatbed, took 2 hours so I washed the car inside and out. Dealer doesnt have coils in stock (live in alaska) and it will take a week to get them. The car has two months left on the warrantee but they are giving me s*** because they think that I have the SB2. I removed it before washing the engine bay. I still have the switch for my two maps but the wires are just cut and hanging. I lied and told them I only had a boost controller to stop from hitting boost spikes and blowing the bottem end because of my CS DP.
Today, they started it, drove it out of the shop and it died. The anti-theft light was blinking. The key no longer worked. They cut and programmed another key. It started for a minute and then died with the anti-theft light blinking. The dealer then called me to have me bring my spare key. This time it did not start and the anti-theft light just blinked. The tech told me that they have to push it back in the bay and then check the ECU to see if its burned up. Some new service guy is telling me that I have some igition control module that caused the ECU to blow and the coils to burn but they are sending it up to Mazda to see if they will cover it. I know they will not if they are saying I have a piggy back EMS. I took it all out so they cannot see it and so now, they only think that it was once there. They also said the the ECU stores all past info and they will be able to tell if I had a piggy back. Is this true? I thought that the ECU reset itself when you unhooked the battery.
Has anyone else gone through this? Is my ECU probably burned up? I dont understand why the car wouldnt recognize the keys. I know that the signal for the keys have to go through the ECU before being recognized by the key control system. I have the CP-E full control and boost cut flashes on my ECU so im hoping that I dont have to pay for a new ECU too because that means I have to spend another 500 bucks getting the flashes again.
Please help me. I dont know what I should do. Has anyone ever gone through this before? Is it best that I order the coils and ECU myself and do the work myself? Will any MS3 ECU work for a 2008?
Any info will help. Thanks!
Ryan
Today, they started it, drove it out of the shop and it died. The anti-theft light was blinking. The key no longer worked. They cut and programmed another key. It started for a minute and then died with the anti-theft light blinking. The dealer then called me to have me bring my spare key. This time it did not start and the anti-theft light just blinked. The tech told me that they have to push it back in the bay and then check the ECU to see if its burned up. Some new service guy is telling me that I have some igition control module that caused the ECU to blow and the coils to burn but they are sending it up to Mazda to see if they will cover it. I know they will not if they are saying I have a piggy back EMS. I took it all out so they cannot see it and so now, they only think that it was once there. They also said the the ECU stores all past info and they will be able to tell if I had a piggy back. Is this true? I thought that the ECU reset itself when you unhooked the battery.
Has anyone else gone through this? Is my ECU probably burned up? I dont understand why the car wouldnt recognize the keys. I know that the signal for the keys have to go through the ECU before being recognized by the key control system. I have the CP-E full control and boost cut flashes on my ECU so im hoping that I dont have to pay for a new ECU too because that means I have to spend another 500 bucks getting the flashes again.
Please help me. I dont know what I should do. Has anyone ever gone through this before? Is it best that I order the coils and ECU myself and do the work myself? Will any MS3 ECU work for a 2008?
Any info will help. Thanks!
Ryan