1999 1.8 rebuilt to 2.0, plus several upgrades

glyph

Member
Contributor
:
99 pro ES Silver heavily modified
First a note of thanks:
Before I get started, I'd really like to highlight the service I've received from Ken at ProtegeGarage.com for all the awesome help and support he's provided over the last couple weeks. He has been patient as I've researched the issue, asked for his help and advice, and changed my (rather large) order multiple times. If you guys need stuff for your protege, start with him, you won't be disappointed. I've purchased 440cc injectors, high-flow fuel pump, Tokico Illuminas and more from him in the past.

On with the show:
Hello all, if some of you have been around long enough, you may remember my thread on installation of the MAM Street Sleeper kit (pre-tubular manifold).

I've been boosted ever since and loving my car as I've modded the suspension, engine mounts, and more to increase performance. A month ago, just short of 110k miles, my rod bearings and main bearing started knocking around in the block, so after I tore it down to the block, (swapping all belts and gaskets along the way) and diagnosed the problem, I've done some hunting, and with the massive help of Ken at ProtegeGarage.com, I'm now going to perform these upgrades:

-1.8L replaced with 2.0L built block (forged rods/pistons, performance rings & bearings in a brand new block)
-SteedSpeed.com manifold to replace my cracked and POS manifold from MAM
-That requires a new turbo housing for my GT28RS with a T3 flange (mine is T25) (from ATP Turbo)
-and a new V-band Wastegate (38mm Tial from ATP Turbo)
-and a new downpipe (Speed Circuit)
-new Spec Stage 2+ clutch
-AWR Racing powdercoated oil pan with oil return bung

I'll be doing the work myself since all I have to do is swap out the block. I already have a Haltech E6X so I don't have to worry about swapping the ECU, and I'm already running 2.0 coils with Knology Hotwires.

This thread will be for posting my progress and eventual tuning and dyno runs. I'm going to stick with my current 7psi until I get everything situated, then I'll start turning it up.

I'll be posting photos and status updates along the way, starting with pictures Ken is taking of the block he's preparing.
 
Last edited:
finally, some pictures...

old block
old-block.jpg


shavings in my old oil pan:
oil-pan-shavings.jpg


new block with oil pan, block covers
2.0L-block-clean.jpg


new block with oil pan, block covers, cylinder head, and some accessory bits
2.0L-block-with-cylinder-head-cams.jpg


my workspace
garage.jpg


sheared bolt with a sheared extracter inside the sheared bolt :(
sheared-bolt-water-outlet.jpg


did a port and polish on my old cylinder head after shearing the bold
port-polish.jpg


cleaning the valves
valve-cleaning.jpg


what the valves look like before/after cleaning
valve-cleaning-difference.jpg
 
Last edited:
ok, this whole thing was put on hold thanks to a my wife being sent 1 year TDY, during which she cheated on me, came home, divorced me and became my ex-wife... so, I'm now finally resuming this project!

In the last couple weeks, I sheared a water outlet bolt in my cylinder head, swapped all my valves to an old cylinder head, lathed and seated the valves, and am now back to reassembly.

In the meantime, I realized I have two sets of cams, one for the FS 2.0 engine (which were sent to me via the guys at Mental Addiction motorsports - old history, I know), but they look a little beat up (see images), and I have the FP 1.8L engine cams, but they look pristine. How different are they (if at all) and should I use the nice looking FP cams or the shoddy looking FS cams?

nice clean, original 1.8L cam:
1.8-cam.jpg


ugly 2.0L cam:
2.0-cam-brown-text.jpg
 
Just a guess but could the heat marks be from a potential Re-grind??? Maybe they have been beefed up in a way?
 
Back