1972 Datsun 510 (56k best of luck)

[Killer]

I miss my 510 ...fun car.

 

[woodstockstr]

i want one so damn bad!

 

[freekwonder]

hopefully I'll have some updates soon

 

[woodstockstr]

you know that you need to do a old school nissan motor. to a ca18!!! turbo iron block

 

[freekwonder]

ca18 isn't a bad motor. I would take it over an SR20. but I'll go with the KA24. 2.4 liter iron block and likes boost.

 

[Hughes412]

saw one here in Austin, big ass turbo.

 

[Killer]

ca18 isn't a bad motor. I would take it over an SR20. but I'll go with the KA24. 2.4 liter iron block and likes boost.

Not going OLD SCHOOL L series SOHC???? I don't blame ya really. SR20 DET will go too.(first)

 

[freekwonder]

Not going OLD SCHOOL L series SOHC???? I don't blame ya really. SR20 DET will go too.(first)

don't get me wrong I LOVE L series motors. But hell the price it would take to build a L20, with header, cam, side drafts and higher compression. I could put in a mild KA24 and get more power. I'm a KA24 > SR20 kinda guy. (first)

 

[woodstockstr]

tophat performance makes some of the best ka motors out there. i bought one built from them for my altima... and i was fast! (dont make fun of me for my old altima) sure the name "altima" is gay but that car after that motor was sick

 

[freekwonder]

tophat performance makes some of the best ka motors out there. i bought one built from them for my altima... and i was fast! (dont make fun of me for my old altima) sure the name "altima" is gay but that car after that motor was sick

Thanks for the heads up. I'll have to keep that in mind when I want to go all out. right now I just want to run a stock motor. Since that should be enough for a 2200lbs car.

 

[freekwonder]

Starting the next fix. The painted one was suppose to go on the car, but when I was pressing the bushing out I accidently bent the left ear on it. I ended up getting a used one and we are cutting off the good ear and putting it on my arm. Luckily my friend knows how to tig weld and we are putting some extra bracing in. Here is the start. probably going to finish up this weekend.

 

[wicked]

thanks guys. I plan to run a ka24de from a 240sx. bought a blown up one, just need to rebuild it. Plan to make it a fun weekend car. dragstrip for fun and hopefully some autox and track events.

in the eyes of MANY,the only engine for a 510 is a L20,nothing else.


you gonna have fun finding the subaru LSD for a decent price.they have been going for over $400 lately.

 

[wicked]

ca18 isn't a bad motor. I would take it over an SR20. but I'll go with the KA24. 2.4 liter iron block and likes boost.

to much power will completly ruin a 510.
the most a 510 should be running to make it untouchable on a track would be in the low 200 area.


yeah,I know this is america where every only cares about BIG numbers,instead of a well balenced car.

 

[freekwonder]

in the eyes of MANY,the only engine for a 510 is a L20,nothing else.


you gonna have fun finding the subaru LSD for a decent price.they have been going for over $400 lately.

Thats the great things about opinions everybody is entitled to their own. Why would the l20 be only engine for the 510? The ka24 is still a nissan motor at least and has more power stock then most highly modified l20s. And good thing I'm not looking for a subaru LSD, R200s fit in with little modification. And r180s fit in with no modifications.

I plan for around 300hp, with a proper suspension and brakes it can still be a good track car. I am not going to ruin my 510.

 

[wicked]

Thats the great things about opinions everybody is entitled to their own. Why would the l20 be only engine for the 510? The ka24 is still a nissan motor at least and has more power stock then most highly modified l20s. And good thing I'm not looking for a subaru LSD, R200s fit in with little modification. And r180s fit in with no modifications.

I plan for around 300hp, with a proper suspension and brakes it can still be a good track car. I am not going to ruin my 510.

I have been in literaly dosens of 510's,and have driven a lot of engine options,and in doing so I have seen why the L20 realy is the engine for it.
it doesn't take much,and to have a really well balenced L20 doens't cost near the price of a K or SR.

you ever hear of a guy named Troy Ermish in Fremont Ca.
you should call him,and talk 510,not many people know more about them,or build more race 510's.

BTW,my quote earlier was from the owner of the 510 club.

good luck on the build.

 

[freekwonder]

I have been in literaly dosens of 510's,and have driven a lot of engine options,and in doing so I have seen why the L20 realy is the engine for it.
it doesn't take much,and to have a really well balenced L20 doens't cost near the price of a K or SR.

you ever hear of a guy named Troy Ermish in Fremont Ca.
you should call him,and talk 510,not many people know more about them,or build more race 510's.

BTW,my quote earlier was from the owner of the 510 club.

good luck on the build.

To get good power out of the L series you need to rebuild the whole motor (cam, higher compression), and a good sidedraft set up puts you near the $1000 mark just for carbs and manifold. KA are cheap and like I said a modified L series is barely the power of a stock KA.

Yes I know Troy Ermish in Fremont Ca. I have talked to him many times. In fact those coil overs you see, I bought the ground controls from him (same as my rear coil overs that I sold later, but plan to buy new ones from him soon) But Troy is not the ONLY professional racer that races and deals with 510s, there are more people out there. Troy himself does has done a few KA swaps (your right I should go with the l20 thats what all the real races do)

I am happy that you have riden and driven in many 510s. But unless you yourself have done the build up and research into them, please stop lecturing me. I have done my research and have choosen what I want for MY 510. I am not some young dumb punk. And unless you have any thing to really add to this thread instead of bashing my choices I have made for a car please leave it. (I'm trying to be very polite here and its really hard)

and which 510 club, there are quite a few 510 forums and clubs out there? There is no "the 510 club"

 

[wicked]

To get good power out of the L series you need to rebuild the whole motor (cam, higher compression), and a good sidedraft set up puts you near the $1000 mark just for carbs and manifold. KA are cheap and like I said a modified L series is barely the power of a stock KA.

Yes I know Troy Ermish in Fremont Ca. I have talked to him many times. In fact those coil overs you see, I bought the ground controls from him (same as my rear coil overs that I sold later, but plan to buy new ones from him soon) But Troy is not the ONLY professional racer that races and deals with 510s, there are more people out there. Troy himself does has done a few KA swaps (your right I should go with the l20 thats what all the real races do)

I am happy that you have riden and driven in many 510s. But unless you yourself have done the build up and research into them, please stop lecturing me. I have done my research and have choosen what I want for MY 510. I am not some young dumb punk. And unless you have any thing to really add to this thread instead of bashing my choices I have made for a car please leave it. (I'm trying to be very polite here and its really hard)

and which 510 club, there are quite a few 510 forums and clubs out there? There is no "the 510 club"

yeah,I am no dumb punk either.
I just finished building a autocross 510.
short runner intake/dual makuni sidedrafts
long header/Ermish
11/1 comp
P&P head/custom cam
R160 LSD/datsun stub axles.
full roll cage
280 front conversion(sus.)/240 struts.
custom rad.
full custom wiring harness.
bubble flares.

and this is just one.

BTW,the R200 takes a lot more to fit then you think.
it defnately fits,but you have to cut into your spare tire well,and make sure you get the right nose,it's offered in a shortnose,and long nose.

I am not trying to rip on your plans,this is a forum,and one of the best parts about it is people can come together and discuss different views.
I am trying to keep this friendly.

BTW,I am no datsun guru,or even much of a datsun enthusiest,but I am a car enthusiest,aswell as a tech.

 

[freekwonder]

yeah,I am no dumb punk either.
I just finished building a autocross 510.
short runner intake/dual makuni sidedrafts
long header/Ermish
11/1 comp
P&P head/custom cam
R160 LSD/datsun stub axles.
full roll cage
280 front conversion(sus.)/240 struts.
custom rad.
full custom wiring harness.
bubble flares.

and this is just one.

BTW,the R200 takes a lot more to fit then you think.
it defnately fits,but you have to cut into your spare tire well,and make sure you get the right nose,it's offered in a shortnose,and long nose.

I am not trying to rip on your plans,this is a forum,and one of the best parts about it is people can come together and discuss different views.
I am trying to keep this friendly.

BTW,I am no datsun guru,or even much of a datsun enthusiest,but I am a car enthusiest,aswell as a tech.

Glad to hear you have helped put one together. You may have just been discussing, but your comments were more lecturing then discussing.

Luckily Cutting and patching a whole in the spare tire area isn't big deal after cutting a welding up the coil overs and the rear cross member. I know about the long nose and short nose. Datsport is actually working on making the short nose work, and looking at it looks like it only needs some bracing and it should work. And the r200 is strong as hell. I plan to try and get a short nose r200 from one of my 240 friends and see if I can make it work since there are so many around that have lsds and they are a little cheaper the subbie r160s.

I like discussing cars and parts, but like I said I didn't take your comments as discussing, they looked more like lecturing not discussing.

but as far discussing: i would love to talk about what was done to the autocross dime you worked on. Which r160 are you running? Is it running a subbie r160? What 240 struts is he using and mind if I ask why. Right now I just plan on running 280zx struts, tokico blues and with the ground controls. Is he runing 240sx stuff? Why did you guys modify the wiring? And what radiator is he running? I know TSR has a radiator package but its $950 dollars (shocked). I was thinking of running the rabbit radiator since so many people have done it and seem to be happy with it.

 

[wicked]

Glad to hear you have helped put one together. You may have just been discussing, but your comments were more lecturing then discussing.

Luckily Cutting and patching a whole in the spare tire area isn't big deal after cutting a welding up the coil overs and the rear cross member. I know about the long nose and short nose. Datsport is actually working on making the short nose work, and looking at it looks like it only needs some bracing and it should work. And the r200 is strong as hell. I plan to try and get a short nose r200 from one of my 240 friends and see if I can make it work since there are so many around that have lsds and they are a little cheaper the subbie r160s.

I like discussing cars and parts, but like I said I didn't take your comments as discussing, they looked more like lecturing not discussing.

but as far discussing: i would love to talk about what was done to the autocross dime you worked on. Which r160 are you running? Is it running a subbie r160? What 240 struts is he using and mind if I ask why. Right now I just plan on running 280zx struts, tokico blues and with the ground controls. Is he runing 240sx stuff? Why did you guys modify the wiring? And what radiator is he running? I know TSR has a radiator package but its $950 dollars (shocked). I was thinking of running the rabbit radiator since so many people have done it and seem to be happy with it.

I apoogize for earlier.

the Rad is a Be-cool rabbit Rad.w4e used a regular Rabbit rad for awhile,but unfortunatly it's not much better then stock.
to make it fit you just need a couple 90 hoses,and a 1 3/4 to 1 1/2 adapter for the bottom.
as for the struts,it was Troys idea,it's a lot easier to get the car lower,much lower with these.

as for the R200,I really don't see the need for this.
I have seen cars in the 400HP range ABUSE the R160 with no issues,I would only use a R200 if you were going to go drag,or make this a track only high HP car.
oh,and we use the subbie R160,if you wanted somthing more stout,you can stick a quiefe in your stocker.

 

[freekwonder]

I apoogize for earlier.

the Rad is a Be-cool rabbit Rad.w4e used a regular Rabbit rad for awhile,but unfortunatly it's not much better then stock.
to make it fit you just need a couple 90 hoses,and a 1 3/4 to 1 1/2 adapter for the bottom.
as for the struts,it was Troys idea,it's a lot easier to get the car lower,much lower with these.

as for the R200,I really don't see the need for this.
I have seen cars in the 400HP range ABUSE the R160 with no issues,I would only use a R200 if you were going to go drag,or make this a track only high HP car.
oh,and we use the subbie R160,if you wanted somthing more stout,you can stick a quiefe in your stocker.

not all your fault I may have taken it wrong.

So whats a Be-cool rabbit Rad.w4e I may have to look into that. got to keep a 2.4l cool.

I may have to call Troy about that. I got my 280zx tokico struts and ground controls from him. but that should get me as low as I need to go since I plan to run 15s on the car. Cant go to low or I wont be able to turn, since I'm still torn if I want to do flares or not.

I'll have to keep that in mind about the r160. Since I'm half broke I figured I could kee the 160 until I broke it. I though the quiafe for the stock 160 was EXPENSIVE as hell.

What did you guys do to the subbie 160. I though you had to modify the stock axles to get them to work?