'02 P5 idling problem

libtech

Member
I posted in the EGR valve replacement thread, and did some searching but thought Id make a post see if I could get an anwer faster so I can cancel my appt for tomorrow.

1) The car (2002 Protege 5) has 96,0000 KM on it. This started roughly 4 weeks ago, every once and while I would drive the car and it would, during idle (stop lights or parked), run really rough and go low low idle, like almost stalling. If I gave it a quick rev to say 3500, the problem would go away and not come back until a few days later. Then it progressed to happening everytime I drove the car, but again if I reved it quick, the problem would go away and not come back till I drove the car next.

Then this weekend it started again and if I reved it, it didnt go away, took about 4-5 revs and then it finally disappeared.

Im going to check plugs and wires tonight, and if I have time take off the EGR valve and do a cleaning on it.

Does this sound like it could be the problem, or more likeley A coil issue?



2) This How To, says to reset the computer? How do I do that and can I without messing anything up?

3) I spoke with a Mazda dealership today and they said If I take off the EGR valve myself I void the 7 year warranty and cant get the replacement, he said you shouldnt mess with it... BS? They said they will diagnose for $105, and they can tell me the problem. If its the EGR valve its all covered under the 7 year warranty and they will throw in the new EGR free of charge. If its not, at least Ill know what the problem is and I can try fix it myself if its the Coils etc...

Then I spoke to another dealership and they said it shouldnt void the warranty.

They also said that if its the EGR valve you should be getting a CEL? I havnt had one yet at all... So im debating weather to just spend the 105 bucks and ill know...

What do you guys think?





Thanks!
 
I had idle issues.

I changed egr, cam position sensor, spark plugs, etc, etc. I changed a whole bunch of sh1t.

It turned out to be my throttle body. The coolant lines to the tb where filled with carbon.
 
They can only diagnose it if it has a check engine light! I'd check into what 808 mentioned but there have been many bad EGR's! It's difficult to get a good angle to the bolts to get it off to try to clean or replace but it's not very hard with the right technique! You can't get a ratchet under there with enough force but try this with 2 wrenches atleast to break the bolts loose.
 

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So if theres no check engine light then theres no way they will replace it under warranty?

I have a guy im going to go to today at a GM dealership who is going to try read the codes for it for me. He can do it for free but he doesnt know if it will work.

If I take the EGR off dont you have to buy a new gasket for it as well?
 
Honestly that sounds EXACTLY like the problem I had. EGR valve replacement = fixed problem. You cleaning it may give you the same result.
 
yes start with the cheap easy stuff first. When taking off the egr you will not need a new gasket. For me I did everything and it ended up being the tb.

Start with the
spark plugs
Spark plug wires
egr
 
Thanks guys, ima running to my buddy at the GM dealer right now to run a code scan and see if it works and what pops ups, if not ill take it in tomorrow.
 
So my buddy at GM tried to run them, his GM scanner wouldn't pick it up, so I left, and on the way home I got a check engine light finally, first time ive seen it.

So I'm just going to have the dealer scan it and see what it reads and go from there.
 
I had idle issues.

I changed egr, cam position sensor, spark plugs, etc, etc. I changed a whole bunch of sh1t.

It turned out to be my throttle body. The coolant lines to the tb where filled with carbon.
^??

The coolant lines are really there to warm the TB to keep it from icing up in the winter... And they don't carry exhaust gas to 'carbon up'.

I would suspect the line to the EGR was the real culprit in your case.

Bottom line. Pay a garage to change the EGR. If it fixes it - great. If not - it was /will be due.

Check also the PCV. $1.99 and it did help my idle.
 
Took it in this morning, they checked it, and it was apprantly the EGR valve sticking. Replaced it free of charge, big zero dollar bill! That was wicked, im glad it was the EGR valve. At least I hope it was, time will tell, problem didnt happen on the drive back to work. Runs better too.

Plus I had to take a double look at the car, they washed it for me too.
 
I had the same problem. I got a new EGR and when I looked at the old one, it had rust in the valve. I checked out some other sites and this seems to be the major problem with with EGR, the rust. Its best to get a new one because Mazda put an extended warrenty on it because they know of the problem. Still a bit rough but im going to get my spark plugs changed soon.
 
I'll probably do a set of plugs myself in the next while, car has 96,000 KM on it, so im sure it would be a good maintenance thing.

The other dealership said its due for its 98 (or 96) km maintenance, which they say is roughly $1100 CAD? I promptly said no thanks.

Its a non interference motor right? So if the timing belt goes ill do it myself at that time.

or do you guys recommened the scheduled maintance at the dealer?
 
I wouldn't do it for $1100CAD whatever that comes out to USD... that seems to be pretty expensive.
 
I had similar issues and ended up having to replace one of the ignition coils after I replaced the plugs and wires and was told the pre-catalytic converter was toast too so I just pulled that and installed a new header that bolts straight up to the main cat.
 
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