Search results for query: lca

Yeah, most failed ball joint incidents I’ve read and this CX-50 by OP are the ball joint stud got pulled out of its socket, like @RedBaron‘s picture shown. OP’s CX-50:

I trust these guys, been going there over 30 years. I've been hearing an occasional knocking noise the last few months and the last time I looked at the bushings they looked questionable. Ball joint seals are torn so it's time, in my book anyway. BOTH control arms replaced, alignment, state...

...understand what "play" means here. I am assuming that the play is not desirable. Is there a way to tell while driving whether there is play in LCA ball joints or not? Like while turning or going over potholes. The only unusual noise that I have noticed recently is that while driving and not...

...failure a lot of people are seeing on their CX5s on the forum. The car is a 2015 GT with 97k miles. The symptoms are: Tiny movement where the LCA ball joint connects to the knuckle. You can't see it but you can feel it with your hand while someone wiggles the rotor. I've attached a pic...

It could be the links. Or it could be the sway bar bushings. One thing is for sure, I have seen complaints about this going back many years. Even my 2023 started doing it with less than 3,000 miles. If it's the sway bar bushings, based on my research, it seems standard that rubber sway bar...

Got into the front end first, replaced the LCA on the driver side. I pulled off the rotors and had them turned at the brake shop, then grabbed some new pads. Finally got the stock front struts out and installed the AST/Megan Racing setup before I ran out of time.

As far as old age and delegating certain jobs, yea, I remember voicing similar thoughts on here a few times. But I'm not ready to get rid of the tools yet. Gotta maintain that sense of "independence" even if only doing the simpler, easier things. And what's all of this cryin' I'm reading about...

Recently I bent the front LCA on passenger side with a hard hit to the curb. CX-5 DIY Control Arm Replacement Difficulty? Apparently Mazda uses different front LCAs for 2014 / 2015 CX-5 and my 2016 CX-5. The part numbers for 2014 / 2015 front LCAs are KD35-34-350S / KD35-34-300S and for 2016...

...minus the trailing arm bushings; going to move to the front hopefully today. From videos, it looks like the forward inner mount on the front LCAs has non-captured nuts up inside the subframe, so that will be interesting. Had the strangest situation after replacing the LCA and toe arm on the...

...(and shocks). I don't need shocks. Control arms alone they wanted $1100 for parts + labor. They sure had a markup on the parts. I'm going to buy my own OE parts online and then try again at a buddy's house to see if we can get the bolts off. If not, then I'll pay a shop the labor for the LCA's.

...good, maybe because of a low rate of blows per minute, and using a regular breaker bar was proving completely miserable) to finish removing the LCA to trailing arm bolt. Which broke, so I had to cut it so I could pry the LCA loose. Hoping I can get the stub of the bolt out with enough heat...

Am gonna try just spraying with 303 since I only have 9k mi Sunday.

I assume you had also changed the LCA since it was bent? What is the condition on your CV axle after it got ”taken out” other than the popping sound on tight turns? My CX-5 now has developed a humming noise over 50 ~ 55 mph which I suspect it could be from the LF wheel bearing due to the...

...even as long as tie rod ends. My tie rod ends had no play at ~60 K miles when they were changed (boots torn and changed in conjunction with LCA's) but the links needed changed about 7 months prior. On previous vehicles, end links were always changed before tie rod ends much less ball joints...

Looks like you also need tie-rod ends in addition to the ball joints on LCA. If you have Brakes Plus near by, try them first.

This video will help you with your old CX 5 and newer CX 5. And other CX Model. Must use alot of spraying silicon grease on the LCA assy bore (large bushing) and knock it with some mallet or hammer to make sure it doesnt sticks. https://youtu.be/EfR6hGUnDO4

That's funny! My very first new car was a Capri! 1979 Capri RS w/turbo and 4 speed manual, black with bright green stripes. It was a Mercury by then. I replaced the clutch in my driveway, first time doing a clutch, and also the turbo, first time for that as well. The patient survived both...

Yeh the price increase on car parts after the pandemic is outrageous! Mentioned in previous post here, @jmaz paid $165.15 each for his OEM LCA in Sep. 2022, but now it’s $248.35 from the same seller, a 50% increase! The Group 35 interstate battery at Costco was $78.99 with 36-month...

To me it looks like a lot more wheel wiggle than control arm wiggle. But Pitter would have mentioned it if they were replaced in addition to the control arms. Maybe it's a good thing I have an optometrist appointment the day after tomorrow for yearly eye exam . LOL

Actually, if you look again, it looks like the lower control arm is wiggling with the wheel (both sides). Doubt it's the bearings, just the LCA. Also, why are they changing the shocks? If they're not weeping, I would doubt you need need shocks at 30K.