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I just installed these a few days ago and the rear stock endlinks worked, but not up front. Sure you can get them to bolt up when the weight is on the suspension, but there is no clearance between the bottom of the stock end links and the control arms. They will end up bent to hell. I had to get...

Under what conditions (what were you doing) when you recorded that vid?

Looks like it only goes rich for a sec when it drops below 14:1. The majority of the time it seems to be lean. Although it does not seem logical I've seen vac leaks, etc. cause a car to throw a rich code. In some cases the computer will attempt to compensate for the lean condition and goes too...

Got my YellowSpeed coilovers off the fedex truck today. Woot. Thanks, Ken (ProtegeGarage). Guess I'll install this weekend.

That's not the same as a map sensor. It is a solenoid. I am not so sure the extra port on that solenoid should be plugged. That part on the extra nipple with a mitsubishi logo on it is referred to by the manufacturer as a filter. Although, it does kinda look like a plug to me, lol. Those types...

Forgot about you guys. Speedcircuit has some pretty cool s***t

Sounds like a cross between a fart and a duck? LOL, If so check the couplers on the injen, especially the one that connects the injen to the turbo. I had that noise once and that is what it was.

Check Fuel & Spark. You are not getting one or the other. Get back at us after you know which is missing.

Figured out my exhaust leak was being caused by a crappy cometic exhaust mani gasket and that my manifold is not cracked at all. Replaced it with a felpro 3 layer steel gasket, replaced all stock studs and bolts with ARP studs and viola, no more leak. I just ordered some YellowSpeed Coilovers...

According to AllData the part numbers for the cams in the MSP are the same as those for all 1998-2003 Mazda 2.0L FSDE NA protege/626 motors. Intake: FS1G12420 Exhaust: FSD712440 1997 and earlier had different cams...

no

Lock washers, Red Loctite and a lil arm strength should get the job done, but how well does the hardware fit the holes? You could always tap threads in the holes and install some good studs...

Yeah just swap everything over to the other motor. They are the same.

One ETC sensor does it all on this car...

According to AllData Oil pan - 14-18 ft/lbs Flywheel - 71-75 ft/lbs Pressure Plate - 14-19 ft/lbs The bell housing bolts have several different torque specs depending on location.

LOL, somebody hit a nerve? I agree though. Hell most of our "MSPs" should not even be considered that anymore anyway. I know most of us that modded removed alot of what made the car an MSP in the first place and replaced with better performing perfomance parts, not to mention body modifications...

It is an electronic solenoid that moves a small pintle (probably spelled that wrong, but oh well) back and forth which opens/blocked air paths so it can control when vac is applied to the mechanical, vac operated flapper actuator that was on the stock intake. The pintle can stick in one position...

Yeah, I think one of the split seconds will at least let you retard timing. I know Unichip can do both, but its not really end user tuneable. That would not really be a solution to having the timing belt set up wrong though...

Advance timing + boost can equal a blown motor without proper tuning. By the way, I believe the Gates Timing Belt Guide is incorrect about our motor being interference. I did some more research and it looks like powerider87 is correct.

I just used a little file and removed the tab that was in the way. Those bulbs have been in there for 4 years with no problems. I am sure there is a bulb that would fit correctly, but since our cars were produced in japan, they may differ slightly from US protege's. Which could be why the guide...