Pics of Racing Beat spings installed

[FoxPro5]

I just installed both the Racing Beat springs and Tokico HP's on my P5 the other day and snapped some before and after results. This for those of you who are wondering how much of a drop you get with these springs. These are factory direct P5 springs, not the ones off a MP3 or MSP. According to my measurements, my wheel gap went form 2.25" all around to ~ 1.25" rear, ~1.5" front. I now have about a 2 finger gap in back and about a 3 finger gap up front.

As for the handling, well it is harsh, but I'll take it. There is considerably less body roll then before and the ass end doesn't sit down as much during a launch.

I took me about 6 hours to do the whole car...and i swear one hour at least just to get the f'ing end link bolts off just on the rear(notcool) Can't complain though, cause Matt at Racingextreme hooksed my up real tight.

I rented spring compressors and didn't need them...waste of time and $10. For spring install tips, just pm me and maybe i can help...

Peace

Here are the pics...

 

[FoxPro5]

Oh yea one more thing, you're looking at the left (driver's side) rear.

 

[MarkSpark]

looks great, how is it harsh?

I should be doing the same install with forum member Grindmarc next week...mp3 struts and msp springs..how was the install aside from the bolts, which shouldnt be a problem with an air wrench

 

[rustychops41]

Those sway-bar end-link nuts can be real bastards, huh? I usually soak them with WD-40 and use the Allen wrench in the end of the stud to keep it from turning on me.

 

[FoxPro5]

Well let's just say it rides more like a vette now than a caddy.

The whole install was pretty straight forward. I ran into delays with the damn end-link bolts even after repeatedly soaking them with wd-40...but with an air wrench you should be golden....i would have killed for an air wrench.(bang)

A few time saving tips...
1) Wash your car and be sure to spray out the wheel wells to get all the dirt off the stock parts as you will need to reuse them.
2) Get under your car ahead of time and soak those bolts so that they have time to loosen up.
3) Loosen the top bolt that holds the shock together while it's still in the car and just use your jack to slowly lower the suspension arm. This will eliminate the need for a spring compressor.
4) The right rear is a b**** because you might have to take the caliper off or at least tip it back in order to get the bolts out.
5) Find a second hand and it will go a lot smoother and quicker.
6) Be sure to have a cooler full of cold beer and make a project out of it because it may take a while if it's your first time(drunk)

 

[viVid]

I just got done with this same project a couple of weeks ago. The ride is definitely stiffer! I had spring compressors and an air drive and it still took me over 4 hours. The fronts were easy, while the rears were a b**** because you had to remove all the trunk interior trim. I also had a problem with the RR... when I put the bolts back, I reversed them so it wouldn't be a problem if I ever had to do it again #6 is probably the best advice here!

Well let's just say it rides more like a vette now than a caddy.

The whole install was pretty straight forward. I ran into delays with the damn end-link bolts even after repeatedly soaking them with wd-40...but with an air wrench you should be golden....i would have killed for an air wrench.(bang)

A few time saving tips...
1) Wash your car and be sure to spray out the wheel wells to get all the dirt off the stock parts as you will need to reuse them.
2) Get under your car ahead of time and soak those bolts so that they have time to loosen up.
3) Loosen the top bolt that holds the shock together while it's still in the car and just use your jack to slowly lower the suspension arm. This will eliminate the need for a spring compressor.
4) The right rear is a b**** because you might have to take the caliper off or at least tip it back in order to get the bolts out.
5) Find a second hand and it will go a lot smoother and quicker.
6) Be sure to have a cooler full of cold beer and make a project out of it because it may take a while if it's your first time(drunk)

 

[scarmiglio]

Holy &%@*! It took you 6 hours!

I had the advantage of a lift and air tools and I got the job done in about 1.5 hours.

 

[viVid]

^^^ SPOILED

Holy &%@*! It took you 6 hours!

I had the advantage of a lift and air tools and I got the job done in about 1.5 hours.

 

[ChopstickHero]

i still see wheeel gap ...

but nice struts...

 

[MarkSpark]

i still see wheeel gap ...

but nice struts...

Of course there's wheels gap...it's MSP springs...

 

[FoxPro5]

Works for me as a daily commuter. If I went any lower around here in the winter I would have to put a plow on the biotch...a stock pro only has about 6" clearence to work with...I mean have you ever behind one of our cars on the street....she is a squater!!!

Btw i planned for that wheel gap because i'll need it when i get 18's (burnout)

 

[albrieva]

Works for me as a daily commuter. If I went any lower around here in the winter I would have to put a plow on the biotch...a stock pro only has about 6" clearence to work with...I mean have you ever behind one of our cars on the street....she is a squater!!!

Btw i planned for that wheel gap because i'll need it when i get 18's (burnout)

I just bought 2004 Mazda 3 17" stocks, and will probably put 205/45/17's on... I too am a daily commuter, and wanted to keep a stock look. Although, a little drop i guess wouldnt be bad... How are those Racing Beat springs holding up?? and How's it on ur commute? Did you get those 18's????

 

[rustychops41]

FYI: There is a plate on the front struts only that if you dont notice while disassembling, when reassembling, you'll wonder "which way did it go?" It is square-ish with it's rounded corners bent down, but is not symetrical. There are 5 lines stamped into it, about an inch long, evenly spaced around the piece. Only one of these marks is directly in-line with a corner of the piece. This mark should point toward the outside of it's respective fenderwell when re-assembling the strut. And complimenting tip#3, don't tighten the 17mm top nut to spec until you put the car back on the ground. Much easier than trying to hold the shaft while tightening the nut.

 

[FoxPro5]

I just bought 2004 Mazda 3 17" stocks, and will probably put 205/45/17's on... I too am a daily commuter, and wanted to keep a stock look. Although, a little drop i guess wouldnt be bad... How are those Racing Beat springs holding up?? and How's it on ur commute? Did you get those 18's????

They are holding up great. As with anything, you will get used to the increased stiffness...it's fine for a daily commute + occational reckless driving (braindead . If I were to do it over again, I would have gotten a progressive spring...but then again, that would mean another inch lower that I can't afford. I still have yet to but new wheels..bank account is dry:'(

 

[bruce95fmla]

I think it's the tokico's that are giving you that stiffy.

I have heard people (non-mazda) complain about this before.

 

[Ja7Red]

I just installed some msp 03.5 springs on my lx and I get about the same gap, it wasn't much of a lower, but I didn't want much since it's my daily driver and I want to add a dg front lip