The CX-5 LED Lighting Thread

[SayNoToPistons]

Yes I did and will probably file a dispute if the seller does not respond accordingly to my demand. Just for s**** and giggles against the seller anyways. These weren't cheap (for LED's), but didn't cost me an arm and a leg for me to care enough. As I said, I can always use them as red rear blinkers.

 

[taimysho0]

anyone have an idea why i still hyperflash after installing resistors on my switchback leds? i paired yellow and black to the resistor and made sure the wires were tight

<a href="http://s130.photobucket.com/user/taimysho0/media/20140215_163949_zps765e130d.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p242/taimysho0/20140215_163949_zps765e130d.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20140215_163949_zps765e130d.jpg"/></a>

 

[Chris_Top_Her]

anyone have an idea why i still hyperflash after installing resistors on my switchback leds? i paired yellow and black to the resistor and made sure the wires were tight

<a href="http://s130.photobucket.com/user/taimysho0/media/20140215_163949_zps765e130d.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p242/taimysho0/20140215_163949_zps765e130d.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20140215_163949_zps765e130d.jpg"/></a>

most likely the metal tap did not cut into the wire. you may need to strip some of the wire yourself to make sure the metal clamp actually is on the wire. otherwise, your wires are wrong

 

[taimysho0]

most likely the metal tap did not cut into the wire. you may need to strip some of the wire yourself to make sure the metal clamp actually is on the wire. otherwise, your wires are wrong

thanks! ill try that. from what i read, black is always negative and the brown/white stripe is parking so its not required, leaving yellow which should be positive.

 

[taimysho0]

looks like ill have to order new resistors, the ends of the wires that attach to the resistors came out and cant stick back in. maybe thats why these failed due to cheap resistors

 

[Chris_Top_Her]

looks like ill have to order new resistors, the ends of the wires that attach to the resistors came out and cant stick back in. maybe thats why these failed due to cheap resistors

depending on how much wire is left you could just crimp them with a tube connector, but yea you may as well order another pair they are like $5.

 

[SayNoToPistons]

Stick back in? You mean solder?

 

[runtohell121]

Have anyone every tried these VLEDS before for license and map/dome/trunk?
License: http://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numbers/194-168-158-led/5k-white-led/6-5k.html
Map/dome/trunk: http://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numb...-output-dome-light-bulb-31mm-3175-de3175.html
or.. http://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numbers/3175-31mm-led/5k-white-led/5k-3-led-adjustable-festoon.html

Still debating if I really want to pay ~$83 for map, dome, trunk, and license...

 

[SayNoToPistons]

V-LED's have quality stuff, but are quite expensive especially considering shipping. I have tried their front firing version of the 194 license light LED you post. Granted those are quite bright, I found a non-VLED 194 unit just as bright for a little less. I may have an extra pair of the non-V-LED's (just in case they burnt out on me), but its been a year and they're still fine. If you or anyone wants them, shoot me a PM.

I also have an extra set of LED festoons (map, dome, trunk) that are 18 SMD's I believe. They're plenty bright and have been serving me fine for a year. I've gotten complaints from older family that they're too bright. I can sell the extra set for those who want... So a complete interior and exterior license set for sale pretty much.



Cellphone camera pic speaks for itself.

 

[runtohell121]

I have tried their front firing version of the 194 license light you see. Granted these are quite bright, I found a 194 LED just as bright for a little less. I may have an extra pair (just in case they burnt out on me), but its been a year and they're still fine. If you or anyone wants them, shoot me a PM.




Cellphone camera pic speaks for itself.

5000k? I'm not really in a rush to swap them out, just wondering if anyone ever tried those ones I listed as VLEDS currently have 15% off right now, so tempting to buy them even though they won't be available until mid March.

 

[garyd9]

Have anyone every tried these VLEDS before for license and map/dome/trunk?
Map/dome/trunk: http://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numb...-output-dome-light-bulb-31mm-3175-de3175.html
or.. http://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numbers/3175-31mm-led/5k-white-led/5k-3-led-adjustable-festoon.html

For the dome lights, I would NOT suggest the first link... there is not a reflector inside the the dome light area, so the majority of the light would be wasted. The second link is a panel which, in my opinion, is much better for the dome lights. As well as ensuring that no light is "wasted", you can also aim the panel slightly to the side. This can help prevent blinding a driver when a passenger turns on the dome light.

(For my dome lights, I used these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned))

 

[runtohell121]

For the dome lights, I would NOT suggest the first link... there is not a reflector inside the the dome light area, so the majority of the light would be wasted. The second link is a panel which, in my opinion, is much better for the dome lights. As well as ensuring that no light is "wasted", you can also aim the panel slightly to the side. This can help prevent blinding a driver when a passenger turns on the dome light.

(For my dome lights, I used these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned))

Hmm.. Alright. Thanks for the suggestion. Only reason why I was thinking about the first one was that it was rated the highest lumen/brightness. The one you're using seems to be great price though I just don't like cheap LEDs "blueish" tint as I'm currently using them in my other car. Wanted 5000k pure white lights.

 

[SayNoToPistons]

For the dome lights, I would NOT suggest the first link... there is not a reflector inside the the dome light area, so the majority of the light would be wasted. The second link is a panel which, in my opinion, is much better for the dome lights. As well as ensuring that no light is "wasted", you can also aim the panel slightly to the side. This can help prevent blinding a driver when a passenger turns on the dome light.

(For my dome lights, I used these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned))

This. I use something similar but more SMD's to fill void space.

 

[SayNoToPistons]

May have found a solution for us Mazda's that want to use LED replacement bulbs for our cars without any ill effects. Through trial and error, I encountered a few problems even with a dual circuit 7443 LED replacement to match the dual circuit/filament of the incandescent bulb. My third brake light would remain on in parking light mode even without the brakes engaged. This will probably be the same for everyone, unless you are using V-LED's V3 Triton LED replacements which have control boxes and run $100+ a pair. But rest assured, the $100+ V3 Triton is not the only solution to achieving LED brake lights for us.

I'll update once I make a trip to Radioshack to get the parts or order them to test out the theory.

 

[Suddueth13]

The V3 Tritons are the only safe PnP LED bulbs to use. In my years of lighting, these and Elef's are the only PnP LEDs that are as bright or brighter than incandescent lighting due to using quality OE diodes and quality heatsinks. The run proper PWMs set to 5:1 and 6:1 contrast ratios which meet or exceed proper specifications for dual filament. The Elef's only work for larger 3157 and 1157 style bulbs while the Tritons will work with the smaller T20 bulbs. Do it right the first time, brake lights are a safety issue.

 

[SayNoToPistons]

Skip if you have no care about light quality or other's safety when using LED's. Or maybe you just don't want to replace your taillights. That's fine. (hump)

Yes they are the only safe PnP LED bulbs to use. Reason being that they are simply and truly PnP. Most LED replacement bulbs in 7443 setting will not even function properly as a brake light system, so no need to talk comparison of PWM algorithms.

Well, actually scratch that. I just found a way to make an LED unit replacement bulb to work properly with our brake light circuitry. No control module like the V3 Tritions either. A few introductory EENG circuitry calculations and a trip to Radio Shack made that happen. Best part is it is easily reversible. I used the "Samsung" LED 7443 replacements same as the 7443 XPG1's from Diode Dynamics. As I posted in the previous page, I had some problems with them. Well that is now solved.

Before discussion about whether these produce suitable light or not. I would like to say that I want a replacement a safe and as bright as OEM if not safer and brighter. I want the same brilliant output at every right angle as the next person on here or HIDPlanet. With that said, having getting my LED replacements to work and finally being able to properly compare them directly with the OEM filament bulb. In every possible way on my driveway, following behind on the streets of NYC in direct sunlight and at dark. It is my opinion and a friend of mine that the LED replacement is equally as bright and perhaps brighter at certain angles (45* from the light outward). Also, response time is lower as well.

Keep in mind that I said "opinion" and "perhaps". I do not have a solid experiment with measured values given by a light sensor, so there are no results. There are no specifications on these LED's either, nor would it be very reliable. Though for now, they will do as a replacement for incandescent. I do believe they meet the visual standards in terms of light quality and reliability in comparison to a typical incandescent as well. I am sure if I have an opportunity to spend less than $60 to replace a pair of 7443 bulbs with LED's our CX-5 and would out perform what I have now, I would do another replacement in a heart beat. Though, I believe there is no better option (at this moment) for the money for what I have now.

To my surprise, I used the same LED replacement bulbs (extra pair) in the rear turn signals. I was not satisfied with them. You may be wondering why I am okay with the same bulbs in the brake light housing, but not the signal housing. Reason being the light output using THESE LED bulbs will not satisfy proper lighting at all angles like an incandescent does. At around 50* outward from the rear side, there is a dark spot where the lighting emitted from the LED's will not meet the reflector. Therefore, I have decided to swap back to the incandescent amber 7440.

 

[SayNoToPistons]

Attached a bunch of raw pics for what little they're worth. Taken with my cell at almost high mount brake light height. Used a the lowest ISO camera setting, but didn't help with the glare. Forgot pics without brakes.

 

[Chris_Top_Her]

What was your solution to the issue you had?

 

[Suddueth13]

Looks decent enough. I didn't see but did you post a picture of the bulb itself? I'm curious how it is laid out. That's the other brilliance to the Tritons is the virtual filament which utilizes all of the available reflector. But you already knew that ;-)

 

[SayNoToPistons]

I'll get a picture of the LED bulb and it in the housing as well. I really wish there is a way to disassemble the LED unit to see the circuitry inside and modify the LED circuit itself. I had to work with the CX-5 bulb connector for the bulb to function properly.