Mint SS V3 FTC Tunes

[MSP2003.5_Nick]

So i didn't see a place to really post tunes for the new V3 with timing so i deciding to make my own place to put them!!

The last few days I've been out late into the night tuning my car while the streets are bare enough for me to do third gear pulls without stopping halfway. I have my AEM wideband hooked up to the unit and it made it a lot easier to see whats going on and make the adjustments after each pull. Working around the stock tune was not easy at all to get a steady A/F ratio with good timing retard, but i have succeeded!!

By the way I've seen fuel tunes posted on this site and every one of them was half ass to say the least (Not to offend anyone). Nobody tuned idle itself or idle powerband and they didn't get rid of all the random lean spots. That being said this tune is very specific to my vehical and everyones cars are different so fine tuning will have to be made if anyone else wants to use it. Now here is the details or my modifications, engine only, and then I'll describe the tune........

Stainless tubular manifold
Greddy T3/T4 Turbo
626 PG manifold - EGR Block
Tial 38mm Wastegate - open dump
Tial BOV
relocated MAF
2.5" downpipe to 3" straight pipe no cat
2.5" aluminium intercooler piping
Greddy intercooler 20x8x3
AWR 85 solid mounts
NGK stage colder spark plugs
Custom Short ram intake - HKS filter
ACT stage 3 clutch
Greddy MBC set to 7psi
Stock injectors

Basically while building boost from like 2500 to 3500 it was lean as hell like in the 15s, I got it so it's 12.8 solid while building boost. I played with different numbers but this one seemed to be magic where i noticed the best spool time and pull.

Once at full boost of 7psi I added a little more fuel to 11.7 until about 5000rpm where it goes to 11.3 then near redline it goes about 10.8. The engine seemed to respond way better being richer up top and pulled much harder than any other numbers I tried.

As for timing i didn't pull a whole lot, it progressively pulls about 4 degrees at full boost. Again i tried a bunch of different timing maps but that seemed to work the best. The whole car feels very smooth up the powerband and pulls much harder than it ever did for such low boost.

As for idle it's tuned so that it wont stutter or stall with the 626 (a miracle to say the least) I also tuned a revlimit rev at idle so it won't blow up (was lean as ****) This also made it a lot smoother while starting in first.

This isn't a dyno tune but it's pretty friggen good. I know what I'm doing when it comes to tuning and this one surprised myself at how good i got the car feeling. I know not a lot of people run a T3/T4 setup but hopefully it will help someone.

P.S. Sorry for rambling and make sure in Sytem Settings you select GAUGE PRESSURE It's the only way it will ever even work.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

excellent work, thanks for sharing this with the forums!

 

[25FConv]

I have just about the same mods you had only difference is the turbo. Mines is a gt28rs with an upgraded compressor wheel, and i am running an internal wastegate set at 7 psi....previously i had been running DSMConverts FMIC Map with a little tweaking.....I loaded this map in my car to see how it runs.....my idle turned crazy lean to about 16.8-17.2........when i was driving it would be rich around 10.0-10.8 when i would be doing about 35mph in 3rd....moreover cruising in 4th or 5th as well.
However, timing on map b was really nice.

 

[MSP2003.5_Nick]

Thats wierd that your idle was lean beacause i added A LOT of fuel to idle haha. Well that just shows how cars differ. Are you sure you selected gauge pressure in system options? if its anything else it wont work right. In fact on any other setting it actually moves the map so that 16Psi is equivelant to about 6psi which would put your idle at where i tuned for in boost. It's wierd i dont pretend to understnd how this works really. Also do you have the 626 manifold and EGR blocked off or a VTA BOV? Is your IAT in the intake or charge piping? There are a lot of factors that change the Air fuels.

I'm still tweaking the map a bit, when on the dyno it showed my air fuels really lean when spooling. The dyno took more samples of the air/fuel which the AFC missed. The guy also mentioned that pulling timing while the turbo is still spooling decreases horsepower and increases spool time. I'm trying to find a perfect place to start the timing retard to spool best.

Not to mention that this piggy back only alters the stock timing maps on the car which who knows what mazda has. I'm putting the car back together tomorrow and shall post my new maps tuned for 9psi and all the lean spots fixed.

P.S. When you start the car and let it idel can you tell me where the blue is hilighted on your map? it should be -3psi 500 or 1000 rpm

 

[25FConv]

Thats wierd that your idle was lean beacause i added A LOT of fuel to idle haha. Well that just shows how cars differ. Are you sure you selected gauge pressure in system options? if its anything else it wont work right. In fact on any other setting it actually moves the map so that 16Psi is equivelant to about 6psi which would put your idle at where i tuned for in boost. It's wierd i dont pretend to understnd how this works really. Also do you have the 626 manifold and EGR blocked off or a VTA BOV? Is your IAT in the intake or charge piping? There are a lot of factors that change the Air fuels.

I'm still tweaking the map a bit, when on the dyno it showed my air fuels really lean when spooling. The dyno took more samples of the air/fuel which the AFC missed. The guy also mentioned that pulling timing while the turbo is still spooling decreases horsepower and increases spool time. I'm trying to find a perfect place to start the timing retard to spool best.

Not to mention that this piggy back only alters the stock timing maps on the car which who knows what mazda has. I'm putting the car back together tomorrow and shall post my new maps tuned for 9psi and all the lean spots fixed.

P.S. When you start the car and let it idel can you tell me where the blue is hilighted on your map? it should be -3psi 500 or 1000 rpm

Definitely selected Gauge Pressure....went back and checked twice b4 I wrote it to my ECU....my EGR isn't exactly blocked off though, I cut the pipe and attached a breather filter to the EGR pipe so it still sucks in air but not the exhaust gas, and i dont pop a CEL either....My IAT is attached to the
AEM CAI and i am venting to the atmosphere..

hmm so just llooked at the fuel map again, the blue cell is at .5psi at 500 rpms..

 

[25FConv]

definitely let me know when you post the 9psi maps.

how can i change the blue cell to -3psi?

 

[MSP2003.5_Nick]

definitely let me know when you post the 9psi maps.

how can i change the blue cell to -3psi?

thats just with the program open, I mean with it hooked up real time at idle it should be at -1 psi 500 or 1000rpm I got the -3psi wrong. But you see there the fuel is at 10.3 and 10 is stock so I mean if anything it should be richer not leaner. Not sure whats up.

EGR left open is whats probably doing it, that lets in extra air where the computer is expecting used fuel so it makes it lean. If you unhook the electrical connection to the EGR it should never open. thats what i did no CEL. If it is lean on my map where I added fuel than it must have been lean with another map using less fuel?????

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLZENoYjlr8

 

[JDM Sam]

You need an OBD2 Scan tool with data read out to log the actual timing advance.

 

[25FConv]

You need an OBD2 Scan tool with data read out to log the actual timing advance.

Alright I will hookup my OBD II scanner in a few and see what the timing advance is at.

 

[25FConv]

thats just with the program open, I mean with it hooked up real time at idle it should be at -1 psi 500 or 1000rpm I got the -3psi wrong. But you see there the fuel is at 10.3 and 10 is stock so I mean if anything it should be richer not leaner. Not sure whats up.

EGR left open is whats probably doing it, that lets in extra air where the computer is expecting used fuel so it makes it lean. If you unhook the electrical connection to the EGR it should never open. thats what i did no CEL. If it is lean on my map where I added fuel than it must have been lean with another map using less fuel?????

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLZENoYjlr8

But there aren't really any sensors from where the EGR is through the intake mani and back into the combustion chamber.....so how would that come into play the only air that really gets seen by the ECU is the air passing through the MAF.

plus wouldnt it just be pulling the same amount of air that it would from the exhaust mani, only difference is the air will be cooler than the exhaust gas?

 

[Fudgie]

Why guage pressure?

 

[MSP2003.5_Nick]

plus wouldnt it just be pulling the same amount of air that it would from the exhaust mani, only difference is the air will be cooler than the exhaust gas?

no, because the exhaust gas has fuel in it so you're just putting in air that hasn't been read by the MAF where it is expecting fuel so it becomes lean. Note that while in WOT there is a boost sensor that tels the EGR to close but I find it easier to just unplug EGR so it never even becomes a factor in the air fuels.

 

[MSP2003.5_Nick]

Why guage pressure?

Gauge pressure is the only option that when it shows the PSI at the top of the map it is actually what psi you're at. Try opening the map and then changing between gauge pressure and absolute pressure and you'll know what I mean. A lot of people actually tune at 16 psi where the actual pressure is like 3 psi.

 

[Fudgie]

I understand. Why not run vacuum/pressure? In your settings you have it set up as an additional injector controller that takes over at 1.2psi anyways? It should not affect idle at all or anything in vacuum for that matter. Just curious as to why you went the guage pressure route as opposed to the tried and true vacuum/ pressure programmable signal calibrator?

 

[25FConv]

hmm maybe my flaw was i had it as gauge pressure and instead of additional injector controller i had it as programmable signal calibrator........I failed to check how advanced my ignition timing was, other things came up today with family. I will switch it the addition injector for s**** and giggles and see what happens. However, I am having stalling issues now....but I will start another thread for that one.

 

[MSP2003.5_Nick]

I understand. Why not run vacuum/pressure? In your settings you have it set up as an additional injector controller that takes over at 1.2psi anyways? It should not affect idle at all or anything in vacuum for that matter. Just curious as to why you went the guage pressure route as opposed to the tried and true vacuum/ pressure programmable signal calibrator?

for the same reason i state above. If you have it on vacuum/pressure and watch the blue cell move as you drive and build boost it doesnt even get out of the vacuum section of the map. Only on gauge pressure did the blue cell actually have the same boost i was running so it was easier to tune with. Maybe its just mine but thats how it works.

The program still has things that I dont even half understand. It was software build for multiple applications so its sometimes hard to find whats right for what you're doin. All i know is for some crazy reason on my car it works right haha

 

[Fudgie]

So on vacuum/ pressure, when you hit boost the highlighted box on the map stays at 0?

 

[MSP2003.5_Nick]

So on vacuum/ pressure, when you hit boost the highlighted box on the map stays at 0?

no..... lol its easier just to hook it up real time and watch it as your drive. All the different settings do is change the numbers at the top of the fuel map. It's like changing the scale. The unit reads gauge pressure so it only akes sense to tune in gauge pressure mode because that is the real time boost of the engine. In any other option the blue cell moves the exact same way and place jsut the scale or numbers at the top change. Gauge pressure is the only one that will show you exactly what boost you're at.

 

[Fudgie]

Hey- if it works for you than thats what counts. I've installed and tuned a bunch of these and have always used vacuum/pressure. It reads both vacuum (if you are even tuning in vacuum, which you are not and is not necessary for your application) and pressure perfectly. Since you have it set to activate at 1.2psi, just move the map to the right and you will see all of your boost pressures up to 16psi read realtime while tuning.

 

[PlatinumMSP]

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