Uninstalling Stock CBE...
- Thread starter AutoXRacer
- Start date
AutoXRacer
Member
Here is a close up and clarification on the front harger issue.
Also, this is the exact same issue on the rear (subframe) lower contact issue. The tip of the lower hanger contacts the brace and the top of the rear subframe (rear subframe contact issue is with the rear pipe section).
Also, this is the exact same issue on the rear (subframe) lower contact issue. The tip of the lower hanger contacts the brace and the top of the rear subframe (rear subframe contact issue is with the rear pipe section).
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Yea, the rubber hose or rubber nipple on the hanger was the same fix I used on my old car. Its not a big deal, but after a year or so, the rubber tube wore away in the long run, and I had to replace with it new a new rubber tube. Just keep some extra in the garage for future maintenance if you decide on this method as your fix.
AutoXRacer
Member
I was reading the latest issue of Mazdasport Magazine and they featured a RX-8 CBE install and they said how they disconnected the battery due to the "learning ECU" (blah)...
Then it hit me!!!! I never reset the ECU after my install!!!!
I always forget to disconnect the battery after mods (TMIC, BPV, CBE)
Anyway, I disconnected my battery this morning to rest the ECU...I drove the car to work conservatively to let the ECU readjust. As I was close to work and hit traffic, I noticed my exhaust was burbling and popping a lot more than before!!!! And more consistently!!!! (2thumbs)
Now, if you never "reset" your ECU after a mod, will the ECU never adjust for it? Will it just ignore it? Or will it eventually tune for it?
Sometimes I have a feeling the ECU gets "used" to the mod and kind of tunes it out and reverts to a more stock tune... (huh)
Anyone have thoughts on this?
Then it hit me!!!! I never reset the ECU after my install!!!!
I always forget to disconnect the battery after mods (TMIC, BPV, CBE)
Anyway, I disconnected my battery this morning to rest the ECU...I drove the car to work conservatively to let the ECU readjust. As I was close to work and hit traffic, I noticed my exhaust was burbling and popping a lot more than before!!!! And more consistently!!!! (2thumbs)
Now, if you never "reset" your ECU after a mod, will the ECU never adjust for it? Will it just ignore it? Or will it eventually tune for it?
Sometimes I have a feeling the ECU gets "used" to the mod and kind of tunes it out and reverts to a more stock tune... (huh)
Anyone have thoughts on this?
I was reading the latest issue of Mazdasport Magazine and they featured a RX-8 CBE install and they said how they disconnected the battery due to the "learning ECU" (blah)...
Then it hit me!!!! I never reset the ECU after my install!!!!
I always forget to disconnect the battery after mods (TMIC, BPV, CBE)
Anyway, I disconnected my battery this morning to rest the ECU...I drove the car to work conservatively to let the ECU readjust. As I was close to work and hit traffic, I noticed my exhaust was burbling and popping a lot more than before!!!! And more consistently!!!! (2thumbs)
Now, if you never "reset" your ECU after a mod, will the ECU never adjust for it? Will it just ignore it? Or will it eventually tune for it?
Sometimes I have a feeling the ECU gets "used" to the mod and kind of tunes it out and reverts to a more stock tune... (huh)
Anyone have thoughts on this?
This is purely speculation, but I think by clearing the ECU the computer is defaulted to a very rich/safe running state and gradually leans out (as well as adjusts other factors) based on an average of what kind of output its seeing over several miles/drives. Grant it the ECU is not completely self-tuning, but it can alter timing, a/f ratio's, etc. slightly based on an average of output data it collects.
As far as not resetting the ECU after a modification, depending on the mod, the car probably runs a little leaner for several miles and self-adjusts slightly after reading values outside of what it was programmed to see (also just speculation).
AutoXRacer
Member
True... The exhaust isn't popping as much anymore... 
- :
- 2021 3 AWD 2.5T
Looks like if I buy this exhaust im going to buy a dremel as well.. Ha
hey there Auto, feel like helping out a fellow mazdaspeeder with an install? lol jk I am going to try and install mine sometime soon, damn work schedule is taking a big bite out of me right now.
AutoXRacer
Member
Where you at? Its real easy though...if you cut the stocker with a reciprocating saw...
Just yank out the stocker and install new exhaust... Shouldn't take you more than an hour... maybe a little more with prep time; jack stands, etc...
In the winter springs area, I will try to get it done one of these weekends when I have some free time.
AutoXRacer
Member
I got a call from Cork... Seems like my exhaust sneaked out the door without being finished... They told me to cut 1/4" - 1/2" off the rear (subframe) hanger.
Regarding the front hanger contacting the cross brace, there is like a 1/4" protrusion from the weld joint that needs to be grinded off...
These were issues with my CBE I got...according to Cork Sport, my exhaust should have left the shop without these issues.
Oh well...
Regarding the front hanger contacting the cross brace, there is like a 1/4" protrusion from the weld joint that needs to be grinded off...
These were issues with my CBE I got...according to Cork Sport, my exhaust should have left the shop without these issues.
Oh well...
Ok, I'm stuck...
I'm in the middle of installing my CBE. I've got the stock one cut and out of there, so there's no turning back. Now I can't get the two studs off the flange after the cat on the DP because there is no place to grab at them and the tack welded nut on the back of the stock flange is all corroded from winter. I've PB blasted in a few times and tried the tightening the two stock nuts back-to-back trick, but the nuts loosen before the studs will even break loose. Anybody have any suggestions?? Anyone else have this problem? 16k miles and exhaust installs get to be a b****.
I'm in the middle of installing my CBE. I've got the stock one cut and out of there, so there's no turning back. Now I can't get the two studs off the flange after the cat on the DP because there is no place to grab at them and the tack welded nut on the back of the stock flange is all corroded from winter. I've PB blasted in a few times and tried the tightening the two stock nuts back-to-back trick, but the nuts loosen before the studs will even break loose. Anybody have any suggestions?? Anyone else have this problem? 16k miles and exhaust installs get to be a b****.
The best thing I can think of is to pick up some "red" loctite and coat a nut with it on the damn stud, let it cure, and use a sizable breaker bar to break it loose. I don't have to re-use these studs. I just need to replace them with longer bolts for the CBE. Anyone see this not being a good idea?
AutoXRacer
Member
I have no clue what you are trying to do...
Don't you just remove the nuts and spring from the stock flange and put them back on with the CBE...?
Why are you trying to remove the studs?
Don't you just remove the nuts and spring from the stock flange and put them back on with the CBE...?
Why are you trying to remove the studs?
I have the CPE CBE. It requires two new, longer bolts with nuts and washers to mate up the stock DP with their flange. The yellow springs are re-used, but those stock studs will not work with CPE's flange. There is not enough thread length. I'm going pick up some red loctite. I think this plan will work. Its basically adding a head to the stud, making it a bolt.
Well, I tried red loctite and also some type of weld epoxy on a nut and let it cure over night to basically turn them into heads of a bolt. Today I went to break the suckers loose, but the nut broke loose before the studs. I then realized that the studs actually had a slight hex shape half way down them, on the ribbed area. It looks completely round at first glance until I felt it. I was able to fit a 13mm deep socket over it, but I still couldn't get enough leverage on jack stands to break them loose. I finally gave in and drove the car to the nearest garage with half an exhaust on. They said to torch them nice and hot, but I wasn't capable of doing that in my garage, so for $42 they got them off and also put the new exhaust on (the easy part) while I was out.
Unfortunately they put the new nut behind the stock nut thats attached to the flange instead of on the reverse side, basically making the new bolts tighter by the thickness of the new nut. So those compression springs are pretty much compressed, not leaving much leverage. I tried getting them off by myself with my jack stands set up again, but gave up quickly. However, I did notice another set of these springs further up the DP, so there's still some leeway there. Plus I believe the stock turbo manifold has an accordion-like portion for flex. Plus I have an upgraded 88 AWR rear motor mount, so I'm not worried about stressing out the manifold. Eventually I'll do the DP, which has a flex joint attached.
I was a little disappointed with the loudness. The sound is noticable, but not much louder than stock with just a CBE. Its making me itch to put on the downpipe. Or maybe I was just spoiled from driving catbackless. Now THAT was loud!!
In response to the removal of red loctite, I think its some extremely hot temp like 500F.
Unfortunately they put the new nut behind the stock nut thats attached to the flange instead of on the reverse side, basically making the new bolts tighter by the thickness of the new nut. So those compression springs are pretty much compressed, not leaving much leverage. I tried getting them off by myself with my jack stands set up again, but gave up quickly. However, I did notice another set of these springs further up the DP, so there's still some leeway there. Plus I believe the stock turbo manifold has an accordion-like portion for flex. Plus I have an upgraded 88 AWR rear motor mount, so I'm not worried about stressing out the manifold. Eventually I'll do the DP, which has a flex joint attached.
I was a little disappointed with the loudness. The sound is noticable, but not much louder than stock with just a CBE. Its making me itch to put on the downpipe. Or maybe I was just spoiled from driving catbackless. Now THAT was loud!!
In response to the removal of red loctite, I think its some extremely hot temp like 500F.
