Installing P5 rear strut bar??

Ripper323 said:
I won't be buying a bar, I'm using a piece of 316 polished stainless tube, 25mm (1") in diameter, 1.6mm wall thickness. It's what i've always used when i've made my own strut braces.
Your idea about modifying the strut brace tops is a good idea, I'd rather modify them, than the seat belt holder thingy.

Please show pictures when you're done...that would be great to see.

Wil
 
ke20sprinter said:
Please show pictures when you're done...that would be great to see.

Wil
No worries Wil, I was actually supposed to go and TIG weld the top bits up today, but the guy whose welder I was going to use has to go somewhere, so it will be sometime next week when I get the welding done. But I will definitely post up pics, and comments about how it works.
 
hey guys,

Just got the Megan Racing bar in the mail and installed it. I don't have any rear panels in the interior so it was a 5 minute job. Needed to use the washer on the center stud on the strut tower and then two extra washers on either end of the bar to take up a bit of play between the bar and the mount.

Once that was done and everything snugged up it is a beautiful fit. The length is just right and it is a sturdy bar considering how cheap it is. I noticed a few little flaws in the annodizing but only upon close inspection but nothing to worry about.

The car definately feels a little different. Its hard to give it a good test because our roads are either soaking wet or still covered in snow. The tail seems to come around the corners with a better feel. The car feels alot shorter when cornering if that makes sense.

It is a really worthwhile upgrade as far as i'm concerned. The better the feel of the car as a whole the more confident you can be.

Matt
 
Urban biker, we would love to see some pictures. That goes for you too bpoche. Did you ever finish that custome rear strut bar??
 
mazdaspeed777 said:
Urban biker, we would love to see some pictures. That goes for you too bpoche. Did you ever finish that custome rear strut bar??

I'll get some up for you, keep in mind I have no panels in it. I will have to tackle that part of it in the near future.

matt
 
Finished

Well I've finally finished my rear strut brace, came up pretty good, check it out in the pics.
 

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Thanks guys.
Susamafone: I'm not going to leave it like that, I will eventually get around to cutting a hole in the plastic panels and put them back on, at the moment I'll just have to stick with the race look, cause I can't be stuffed dealing with the panels!
 
pics look great..

For future reference to anyone doing this.. It is always good to jack up the car when putting on a strut bar oth front and back. What that does is takes the load off the strut so when you have it on and lower the car, your bar is adjusted properly to take the load and brace the struts for proper support evenly.
You'd be surprised how much the top of the struts flex when the load is taken off...
Honestly, when just putting a strut bar on when its on the ground not jacked up, the strut bar is doing nothing really and beating its purpose.
 
tengoestetempo said:
that bar looks alot more steardier than the ebay ones
The bar itself is a piece of stainless steel tube, 25mm in diameter, with 1.5mm wall thickness, you should be able to buy it from your local steel merchant. Cost me $15 australian for it. Bargain I thought!
 
Ripper323 said:
The bar itself is a piece of stainless steel tube, 25mm in diameter, with 1.5mm wall thickness, you should be able to buy it from your local steel merchant. Cost me $15 australian for it. Bargain I thought!
then where did you get the circle things that tie to the rear struts?
 
tengoestetempo said:
then where did you get the circle things that tie to the rear struts?
I made them myself out of a high grade stainless called incoloy. Through work I have access to a plasma cutter and a TIG welder, and a mate got me the material for free.
 
amsgator said:
I found a mx-6 bar that you wont have to cut or bend nearly as much. Check out this ebay bar:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160073641063&fromMakeTrack=true

Notice how the part sticking off the "horseshoe" almost comes to a triangle when it meets the bracket, instead of being rounded or squared off. That means you wont have to cut as much or bend as much, whichever you decide to do!
That's the same one I have that I was talking about in the PM.
 
i12drivemyMP5 said:
That's the same one I have that I was talking about in the PM.

is it from the same seller too? if so i'll go ahead and get it since i know it will work
 
How much does the bar get in the way of rear cargo? I use my "trunk" all the time. I was wondering if you could put in a bolt w/ a cotter pin in it instead of the threaded bolts so you can just pull the pin and yank the bar out really quick for those times when you need to haul cargo.
Any ideas?

This is what I'm talking about, or something similar:
B0000BYO0I.01-A1PVVMQ30UW2Y0._SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg
 
Thekid760 said:
How much does the bar get in the way of rear cargo? I use my "trunk" all the time. I was wondering if you could put in a bolt w/ a cotter pin in it instead of the threaded bolts so you can just pull the pin and yank the bar out really quick for those times when you need to haul cargo.
Any ideas?

This is what I'm talking about, or something similar:
B0000BYO0I.01-A1PVVMQ30UW2Y0._SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

i wouldnt advise it...but someone in another thread advised using the quick release bolts on bicycles...some bikes have the quick release on the front wheel and he advised using those. could get them at a bike store. he said they should be the same size...but i've never tried.
 
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