vac line question.

M_S_P_2_0_0_3

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mazdaspeed protege
im running the dual setup and i want to see if my vac lines are ran right. i also wanted to know what the "brake booster" deal is. purpose? i have to run vac lines to hks bov, bpv, unichip selinoid, and boost gauge. i have the bpv connected from the hot pipe to the cai but vac inlet is capped off. im only using the main vac line comming from the top of intake manifold. so anyone with pics or info would be of great help. thanks. (eyeballs) (shrug)
 
run a dedicated line to your BOV and BPV
everyhting else can be teed-off one big line

i don't trust tdoing it on the brake booster line because if somehting fails, i got no brakes
 
where are more vac lines on the msp?? right now i got everything on one. why does the bypass valve make me over boost?
 
Alejo_NIN said:
run a dedicated line to your BOV and BPV
everyhting else can be teed-off one big line

i don't trust tdoing it on the brake booster line because if somehting fails, i got no brakes

You have brakes they will just be hard to push (stash)
 
The wastgate, boost control soleniod and boost gauge should have the best signals IMO. The BOV and BPV signals can be weaker since they aren't very important. There is a vacuum line on the top of the intake manifold you can use in addition to the brake booster. Using the brake booster is perfectly fine, you won't lose your brakes for any reason.

If you have the inlet nipple on the bpv capped, the valve is not operating.
 
i dont have the brake booster. hell i dont know what it really is. im using the vac line on top of the mani. anyothers?
 
i just went to take off bpv and i changed vac line going to wg and im holding a constant 9 psi. i heard that if you change the size of the vac line going to wg you get more boost. i kept the same size line thru out the vac line system. the stock line was a size or two bigger than the new one. so it seems to be running fine. this whole dual setup was when things went to crap.
 
IMO, it is best to run a dedicated vac line to your wastegate that isn't tee'd off. It is optimal for that actuator to have the shortest amt. of line and strongest vac source possible. Not to mention that a vac leak on the WG line can cause your car to overboost. I would tee off the brake booster vac line for the BOV's...your not going to lose your brakes over a vac leak in that line more so than any other line on your car. There is also a check valve that doesn't let vac escape from the brake booster...lol, pop your brake booster vac line off while your car is turned off and hear the air rush in. Let me see If I can find a pic of the intake mani and brake booster 4 ya.
edit...I just drew the vac lines on a paint I made a while back...I hope you can make sense of it...

vac%20of%20engine%20bay.JPG
 
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my lines

which exactly is the brake booster line?? i really dontwant to screw up and cut an important line. i thinking it it the one closer to the back of the engine bay. it has a rubber sleeve covering it. a dual setup pic would be great. thanx.
 

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so do u keep all line size 3/8??? im also running a boost gauge, unichip selinoid, bpv, and bov. so i put all that on the brake booster??
 
I replaced all my vacuum lines with silicone. So I used 3.5mm for most of them, 4mm for the wastegate and 6mm for the PCV valve and the line from the purge solenoid valve/sensor thingy to the charcoal can filter thingy that runs along the firewall. Also the 6mm is supposed to be for the crankcase ventilation but I have not got around to doing that yet. I am running my bov, bpv and boost gauge out of my vacuum block on the brake booster line. I dont know about the unichip solenoid but I will assume you could run it off that as well. I will try to get a picture of my set up as soon as possible to give you a visual.
 
check it out guys, how bout a vacuum block?
 

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