My Mazdaspeed Conversion Build

if i'm using the MSP radiator and a SMIC (turbohoses), will i need the MSP AC condensor, also?
 
yes, the stock one is too long. since the smic is wider than the radiator it stretches into the space where the stock radiator goes. the MSP one is shorter so the smic can fit.
 
Blade4804 said:
yes, the stock one is too long. since the smic is wider than the radiator it stretches into the space where the stock radiator goes. the MSP one is shorter so the smic can fit.
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at first i was confused, but went and looked at the MSP and P5 outside. now I get it. Those are pressurized, aren't they?
 
yes they are. freon and stuff. if you release the pressure yourself, make sure it's a ventilated area and you don't breath that stuff in, it can kill you. if you allready bought the stuff, you can intall the everything and than just install the msp condensor later, you'd just be running without AC for a bit.

Or just go with a FMIC. but if you do go with a FMIC on the P5 you will have to cut some holes into the frame for the pipes to and from the IC.
 
gone_fishin said:
hardpipes? let me know when you get some pictures because I may be interested all right?

You might think twice though about getting rid of your msp rad, smic and hardpipes. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but this is the way that I understood it: the FMIC kits designed for the msp are designed around the extra space freed up next to the rad after the SMIC is gone. So, turbo-to-FMIC and FMIC-to-TB pipes route through where the SMIC once sat. Universal protege FMIC kits (for a lot of the aftermarket setups) hug the wider rad with the turbo-to-FMIC pipe below the passenger side headlight and the FMIC-to-TB pipe below the driver side headlight.

You might find it easier to locate an FMIC kit or parts for the msp, but if you're doing custom work this might not apply to you. I guess it really comes down to preferance in which rad you want to use. To be honest I'm really not sure if one is truly superior over the other. While the msp rad is less wide, it is about half an inch thicker overall and about an inch taller, thus offering roughly comparable surface area for the fins. I don't know which is more efficient, however, if you're building a turbo motor it might be slightly safer to go with a rad that was factory designed to cool that specific turbo motor... know what I mean? Let me know what you decide.
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yeah, i was thinking of just going custom piping around the radiator and such somewhat like the mam setup...but since it would take a while for me to order the setup from them, ill just have my exhaust shop fabricate them for me...as for the radiator, im sure it can handle the stresses of a turbo since there are a bunch of turboed p5s out there with no issues...

and yeah, ill post up pics of the hardpipe soon...all i have is the hotpipe though...
 
Blade4804 said:
yes they are. freon and stuff. if you release the pressure yourself, make sure it's a ventilated area and you don't breath that stuff in, it can kill you. if you allready bought the stuff, you can intall the everything and than just install the msp condensor later, you'd just be running without AC for a bit.

Or just go with a FMIC. but if you do go with a FMIC on the P5 you will have to cut some holes into the frame for the pipes to and from the IC.
Click to expand...
I can't run a FMIC because of the custom mount i did for my fog lamps.

I'll see if Mazmart has a AC condensor from an MSP.


edit - actually i know of a guy putting a FMIC on his MSP, maybe i can swap out AC condensors with him.
 
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awesome job i can only imagine how much effort that took. i did the turbo conversion alone on my ES not too long ago. got any more pics of the outside of the car? i'm assuming its totally sleeper since ur using the stock smic.

Have you had any fuel problems? I.E. not enough fuel being delivered at full throttle. i've been having this problem i think maybe the fuel pump isnt good enough.........but maybe the stock MSP one you have is a little better.
 
Rogue said:
I can't run a FMIC because of the custom mount i did for my fog lamps.

I'll see if Mazmart has a AC condensor from an MSP.


edit - actually i know of a guy putting a FMIC on his MSP, maybe i can swap out AC condensors with him.
Click to expand...

since your at it swap radiator and smic for your stock radiator too since the smic is connected to the msp radiator and he would need custom brackets if he removed it.
 
About the AC condensor situation, this is the best way I can explain it. I drew up a rough diagram that is a bird's eye view of the engine bay. It's not to scale by any means but it gives you the idea.

The reason why the brackets would not fit between the 99 and the 03 msp can be seen in the diagrams in my earlier post.
 

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Doodsmack said:
awesome job i can only imagine how much effort that took. i did the turbo conversion alone on my ES not too long ago. got any more pics of the outside of the car? i'm assuming its totally sleeper since ur using the stock smic.

Have you had any fuel problems? I.E. not enough fuel being delivered at full throttle. i've been having this problem i think maybe the fuel pump isnt good enough.........but maybe the stock MSP one you have is a little better.
Click to expand...

No fuel problems thus far, but that is because I swapped out the 99 1.8 fuel pump with the 03 msp fuel pump. If you have the 1.8, you're having fuel problems because your fuel pump is being strained with an increased load it wasn't designed for-- anytime you add FI you're increasing the fuel demand substiantially.

Thanks for the compliments... again like an idiot I forgot my digicam on saturday, but I'll take some pictures for you all as soon as I can.
 
plus the radiator sits lower on the non turbo cars as to the turbo cars. I took pics of both to show the difference. I will upload them when i get a chance.
 
fyi...i found the part number for the msp condenser and looked online for the part...$343 for those interested...p/n: BP7H-61-480A

plus, u'll need to change the piping to the condenser as well since its smaller...

and the part numbers for the upper brackets for the radiator:

RF15-15-240
 
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thanks flypinoy7. I can't do $150 for a hot pipe though. Good luck on the sell.


Doodsmack, where in PA are you located?
 
(bump)

ok gone fishin what did you do to to get the speedo workin. I have a 00 es with abs and just bolted the msp tranny to my 1.8l. the tach works but of course the speedo dosen't since theres no vss. I tryed putting in a msp instrament cluster but that didn't change anything. thanks
 
zoompastu said:
(bump)

ok gone fishin what did you do to to get the speedo workin. I have a 00 es with abs and just bolted the msp tranny to my 1.8l. the tach works but of course the speedo dosen't since theres no vss. I tryed putting in a msp instrament cluster but that didn't change anything. thanks
Click to expand...

I'm really not familiar with the '00 ES ABS system because my ES never had it. With that said, the MSP measures speed via two hall-effect sensors that sit on the steering knuckle of the spindle; one on the driver side, and one on the passenger side. These hall effect sensors are essentially magnets that 'float' over the teeth below it (on the axle). When the teeth rotate past the sensor, they produce transient changes in the magenetic field, which produce electrical pulses with respect to time. These analog pulses get sent up through the harness and get converted to a digital signal elsewhere, which is read by the instrument cluster. This system generally works in conjunction with the ABS system.

Without ABS, the '00 ES measues speed by a worm-gear inside the transmission. There is a pink-colored plastic splining that causes this worm-gear to rotate, and the analog signal gets put out through the sending unit. Unless your '00 ES had the identical setup previously described on the MSP, it likely has the internal sending unit. If you're a glutton for punishment, you'll have to transfer the worm gear & sending unit to your MSP and retrofit the plastic gear over the differential. This will require machining of the inside of the plastic gear because its diameter is not large enough to fit. You will of course have to pull the tranny to do this, and you'll need the '00 ES instrument cluster to match.

To get the RPM signal from the MSP tranny on your '00 tach, look at your wiring and pinout diagram and tap the RPM signal wire from the ECU. You'll likely get a rough RPM signal now (for unknown reasons), but a resister designed to smooth out signals can be had at most auto-racing parts distributers.

Your other option is to retrofit the MSP hall effect sensors to the steering knuckles of your spindles with the harnesses running up to the MSP ABS console, and then to the MSP instrument cluster. That's likely the easiest thing to do.
 
thanks for the response. probably could have saved you some typing by telling you that I'm a BMW tech. my tach works fine. I wired the vss to a wss and I can do 160mph in 1st gear. so that didn't work. I got a kit for free to try useing magnets on the jack axle with a hall efect wired to the vss input. If I had a msp wiring diagram I could get the specific componets and make it work the factory way but I assume that i would need an msp ecu and I'm not turbo so that is a no go. I will probably pull the diff weld it and put in the vss gear set if all else fails. my shop is to busy for me to do that know though. If you have the msp wiring diagrams though I would be very greatful to look at them
 
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