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- 2003.5 Titanium Gray MSP #1699
I am posting a new thread since the other one is full of people who...
A. Don't even know what these are
B. Thought that having Kartboy bushings prevented you from using the Bronzeoils
C. Have no undercar pictures of the shifter at all
Here is Corksport's picture of 2 Bronzeoil bushings compared to 2 of the stock ones.
Anyway, here's my story. I got my Bronzeoil bushings today from FedEx after some mixups with Corksport, but they have good customer service & we worked it out. I am rather displeased that the only things in the FedEx box were the packing slip & the bushings themselves. I checked the Corksport website & tried searching on here & came to the conclusion that the instructions just plain don't exist. I jacked up the front of my car at our local meet tonight & got underneath it to take a look. The rear linkage is pretty straightforward with a 12mm bolt going through with a lock washer & a nut on the other side. I took that out, removed the stock bushings (green & rubbery) & put in the Bronzeoils.
I didn't lube the bushings at all because Bronzeoil is supposed to be self-lubricating & I didn't think it was necessary. The driver side bushings went in without a problem, but I had to tap the passenger side in with a hammer. After both were in, I lined up the bottom of the shifter with the shift linkage & put the bolt back in. I tightened it back up, but only until it gave resistance...I didn't torque it or anything (I've learned better from working on my Mazda). You'll see from the pictures that there is no conceivable way to get the front bolt out, so I got out, took the car off the jack stands, & anxiously got in to try out the shifter. What I found was that my shifter is now about 10x harder to get into gear than stock. I'm saying that I have to REALLY push to get it in & I ended up driving home through 1, 2, & 5 because 3 & 4 are now VERY hard to find & get into.
From what I read in the other thread, the lube only helps to get the bushing into the shifter. I did have to tap one in, but I still got it so I don't see how that could cause a problem. Another explanation could be how I tightened the bolt, but like I said, I didn't do it hard at all, so again I don't think that's it. I am going to try taking it apart tomorrow & hosing everything in WD40, but I am basically stumped as to the cause of this & also about how to install the front 2 bushings. I thought I would do everyone a service & take a bunch of pics since no one seems to have a clue about the actual design of the linkage & the placement of the bushings. I followed the diagram that the person who posted as Corksport drew, so I don't think I installed them in the wrong place. The fact of the matter is these bushings need some DAMN INSTRUCTIONS! (rant) Someone please help me. (nervous)
Pictures...
1. rear linkage point
2. middle section of 2 bars
3. close-up of Kartboy & front linkage point
4. Kartboy & front linkage point
5. bottom of shifter with linkage bar & bolt removed
A. Don't even know what these are
B. Thought that having Kartboy bushings prevented you from using the Bronzeoils
C. Have no undercar pictures of the shifter at all

Here is Corksport's picture of 2 Bronzeoil bushings compared to 2 of the stock ones.
Anyway, here's my story. I got my Bronzeoil bushings today from FedEx after some mixups with Corksport, but they have good customer service & we worked it out. I am rather displeased that the only things in the FedEx box were the packing slip & the bushings themselves. I checked the Corksport website & tried searching on here & came to the conclusion that the instructions just plain don't exist. I jacked up the front of my car at our local meet tonight & got underneath it to take a look. The rear linkage is pretty straightforward with a 12mm bolt going through with a lock washer & a nut on the other side. I took that out, removed the stock bushings (green & rubbery) & put in the Bronzeoils.
I didn't lube the bushings at all because Bronzeoil is supposed to be self-lubricating & I didn't think it was necessary. The driver side bushings went in without a problem, but I had to tap the passenger side in with a hammer. After both were in, I lined up the bottom of the shifter with the shift linkage & put the bolt back in. I tightened it back up, but only until it gave resistance...I didn't torque it or anything (I've learned better from working on my Mazda). You'll see from the pictures that there is no conceivable way to get the front bolt out, so I got out, took the car off the jack stands, & anxiously got in to try out the shifter. What I found was that my shifter is now about 10x harder to get into gear than stock. I'm saying that I have to REALLY push to get it in & I ended up driving home through 1, 2, & 5 because 3 & 4 are now VERY hard to find & get into.
From what I read in the other thread, the lube only helps to get the bushing into the shifter. I did have to tap one in, but I still got it so I don't see how that could cause a problem. Another explanation could be how I tightened the bolt, but like I said, I didn't do it hard at all, so again I don't think that's it. I am going to try taking it apart tomorrow & hosing everything in WD40, but I am basically stumped as to the cause of this & also about how to install the front 2 bushings. I thought I would do everyone a service & take a bunch of pics since no one seems to have a clue about the actual design of the linkage & the placement of the bushings. I followed the diagram that the person who posted as Corksport drew, so I don't think I installed them in the wrong place. The fact of the matter is these bushings need some DAMN INSTRUCTIONS! (rant) Someone please help me. (nervous)
Pictures...
1. rear linkage point
2. middle section of 2 bars
3. close-up of Kartboy & front linkage point
4. Kartboy & front linkage point
5. bottom of shifter with linkage bar & bolt removed
Attachments
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