How about yeah I'll probably just do that since the original oem got me so many miles just wondering if there were good brand from rock auto or something
In my parking complex I have to do it every time I park because there's a dumb pile I have to drive around. I plan on trying to hit 250k if possible or more miles. I searched on car-part.com and they have one but it's 500 miles away but I may see if they can ship it. Or maybe just throw an AutoZone gold on there to see if it lasts.I've heard Auto zone has better ones but I wouldn't believe it. Check the local recycling places if you can find low mileage axles they might be better. OEM is probably the best.
How many more miles do you want to drive on this car?
How often do you turn all the way to the left?
I'll take a look at the ball joints then, I just had my sway bar links changed recently.Rockauto.com is my go to for all my parts, I do 100% of all my repairs on my 2013 cx-5 with 173k and my 2014 mazda6 with 193k. If they don't have the part, I'll cave and go to the dealer. I avoid the auto parts stores, mostly the same re-boxed parts with a minimum 50% markup on price.
I'm betting that your CV Axle is fine though, I'm betting you have a bad ball joint or bad sway bar endlink. I have yet to have to replace a CV joint in either of my Mazdas.
How many miles did you put on the gap?I'm no sure about 2.0 but my 2.5 AWD AT only has 3 available options: OEM, GSP, and TRAKMOTIVE around here. I'm currently running GSP as OEM is about 1400 CAD around here.
oh not much. I just installed it in mid July. About 1000 kmHow many miles did you put on the gap?
I am not the first owner so I don't know if carfax is correct and up to date ... but if it is then about 270k km on oem.How long did your oem last?
I took the wheel off today and there was no play at the wheel or the CV or sway bar link. No tears in any of the boots and I can't find what causes the noise. It's only one clunk when the wheel is all the way turnedI've done post-mortem examinations on a few CV driveshaft joints, and documented more than a few OE replacement axle shafts for technical evaluation, so I have some pretty solid professional background, here. Regardless of the name brand that ends up going on the box, any axle shaft worth buying is going to have CV joints from the same one or two suppliers. Look for the fine details like quality of the boots and whether they grease the hell out of the splines so you end up making a mess when you install the shaft - those are going to be your obvious differentiators. And if you hear a noise that you think might be a CV joint and an inspection reveals a torn boot - it's the CV joint.