My Rhino ramps have rubber feet on the bottom and I would use them over wood any day. They haven't moved on me.Over 10 years ago, I was a complete dummy and drove my CX-5 over a set of Rhino Ramps. I pressed the gas and the car crept halfway up the ramps. Movement stalled so I applied more pressure to the gas pedal. The ramps shot out from under the front wheels and I was immediately humbled.
1) I wasn’t applying the parking brake correctly.
2) I had the ramps on a slick concrete floor.
3) I didn’t see the risk and thought I knew what I was doing at the time XD
I’ve come a long way as a DIY’er over the last ten years. I would much prefer your wood ramps to Rhino ramps.
Mine had the rubber feet too. Again, chalk it up to bad technique. I’ll never get that squeal/shriek sound out of my memory: plastic and rubber feet shooting across concrete like Clark Griswold going downhill on snow on that greased up saucer.My Rhino ramps have rubber feet on the bottom and I would use them over wood any day. They haven't moved on me.
That said, you should still be very gentle with the gas as best practice. I use them for oil changes.
I used them only a couple more times after my boneheaded incident. When I did, I placed the bottom of the ramps against the concrete lip between my garage floor and the driveway. There was no way for the ramps to slide backwards with the wheels spinning if that makes sense. The 1/2” bump from garage to driveway secured the ramps.I've got some of those plastic rhino ramps and the rubber grips on the bottom don't really hold them in place very well. I should figure out some way to stabilize them.
I've got some of those plastic rhino ramps and the rubber grips on the bottom don't really hold them in place very well. I should figure out some way to stabilize them.
Over 10 years ago, I was a complete dummy and drove my CX-5 over a set of Rhino Ramps. I pressed the gas and the car crept halfway up the ramps. Movement stalled so I applied more pressure to the gas pedal. The ramps shot out from under the front wheels and I was immediately humbled.
1) I wasn’t applying the parking brake correctly.
2) I had the ramps on a slick concrete floor.
3) I didn’t see the risk and thought I knew what I was doing at the time XD
I’ve come a long way as a DIY’er over the last ten years. I would much prefer your wood ramps to Rhino ramps.
Hah, here’s a video of the rear wheel risk I think N7 was referring to. Found a couple videos of what I did with FWD, but I’ve never had a RWD vehicle to attempt this.
Mostly wounded pride, lol! My ride on lawn mower was in front of the car, so I did get a small wheel shaped gouge in the front bumper. Thank god nothing worse than that.Yikes!!!!
What was the damage?
Back in the day, I had a set of metal ramps. I always worried that I was going to drive off the front when I used them cuz they didn't have anything much to stop the car once at the top.
Never had a set of ramps so can't speak from experience. But in the last few years just casually researching them, there were two things (IIRC) that I remember regarding Rhino ramps. One was that the advertised load capacity was the vehicle weight and not the weight capacity of the ramps which would be less since only one end of the vehicle is being supported. The other was of ramp owners mentioning that the newer versions had less reinforcing cross latticing/honeycombing compared to older sets. Those things combined with them being 'plastic' (even though structural foam can be quite strong) had me put those on the back burner for the time being. However a lot of older users seemed to be satisfied with their performance but regarding me buying them the jury is out for now.
I can fully understand that. Check out this video. Regardless of exact reason for this failure, I'm not particularly wild about the construction of this style of Rhino ramps.And that's why I constructed my own ramps.
The Mazda is especially deep; it wouldn't leave much left. You'd need to do what someone here did and glue two together. Great if it works but it was too sketchy for me, structurally speaking.I have an assortment of hockey pucks. For pinchweld lift just carve out a channel in a hockey puck. Easy.
I have owned this particular jack for four years now and if asked I would give it 5 out or 5 stars. It has a large foot for stability, two drop in ends for the top and can be an "on the go" life saver should you get a flat pretty much anywhere. I have made a pinch weld adapter using 5 inches of 1 1/2 square tube with a slit down the middle for pinch weld use. I can actually lift one A-arm at a time when doing brakes or the entire front or rear of my Mazda. The slightly offset foot allows it to fit in close to the inside of tires. This is one of the best shop tools I have ever purchased as it works great in tight spaces.My last few SUV vehicles/trucks had many places to jack and support. Front crossmember, pumpkin, flat spots on frame and even the control arms.
The Mazda CX-5 is not very great for jacking.
Floor jack(with puck) under the
1.) front crossmember or
2.) pumpkin in the garage...
but emergency use or when you feel like fiddling around in the yard means your stuck with the stupid pinch-welds.
Planning to get a small 4 ton bottle jack for emergency use instead of the scissor jack.
Below is what I've found if anyone can confirm:
1.) Front pinch-weld height : 9.75 to 10 inch
2.) Rear pinch-weld height: 10.25 inch
3.) Wheel off the ground by 3/4 inch so 14.25 inch jack height needed for flat to spare switch.
4.) Flat tire(zero pressure) - 5.75 inches off ground start point.
So a 4 ton bottle jack that has min height 7.25 to max 14 inches would work for non-flat maintenance scenarios with the bottle jack on a OSB base with possibly a hockey puck.
However you need a fast portable air compressor to pump up the flat tire while fit bottle jack under vehicle pinch welds. Bottle jack under the pumpkin is a no go...due to the small contact area.
Back to the pinch welds...
The scissor jack only contacts and supports the inner weld/frame and does not touch the outer weld/frame nor the pinch weld itself.
While I trust my puck on my floor jack under the pumpkin, a hockey puck on a bottle jack does not seem safe. To jack at the pinch-weld, the puck would need slit almost 3/4 inches to make contact with the inner weld, leaving only 1/4 inch of solid puck.
Trying not to bend or damage the pinch welds to prevent them rusting away.
Any comments or suggestions?
EDIT: Posted in wrong forum, would you please move to CX-5 forum? Thank you.
Thanks for this lead. Vevor brands some ridiculously good stuff for the money. I've used in industrial and commercial kitchen settings. I'll probably pick one of these up. Here's the U.S. Amazon link if anyone is interested. $59.00I have owned this particular jack for four years now and if asked I would give it 5 out or 5 stars. It has a large foot for stability, two drop in ends for the top and can be an "on the go" life saver should you get a flat pretty much anywhere. I have made a pinch weld adapter using 5 inches of 1 1/2 square tube with a slit down the middle for pinch weld use. I can actually lift one A-arm at a time when doing brakes or the entire front or rear of my Mazda. The slightly offset foot allows it to fit in close to the inside of tires. This is one of the best shop tools I have ever purchased as it works great in tight spaces.
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