Oil Catch Can for 2017~2018 CX-5?

I have 102,4XX miles right now. 2015, 2.5 AWD. This is something I am curious about, as well. So far it runs just fine. This, along with the life-time fluid in the transmission, is something that the next 100K miles will determine the efficacy of. If the car makes it to 200K without issue, then I'll buy a CX5T.


*I may cut the "test" short by a few thousand as I will not pay for a second brake job. My first/OEM brakes lasted 97K miles. No sense dumping another $600 into the car for another 10K miles...
**I buy the cheapest gas I can find at locations that I don't think the odds are super high of being shanked while fueling up at.
 
Last edited:
This, along with the life-time fluid in the transmission, is something that the next 100K miles will determine the efficacy of. If the car makes it to 200K without issue, then I'll buy a CX5T.

If the tranny breaks, who gets the blame in this scenario? Mazda for suggesting it as "lifetime" yet refusing to define what that means, or you who decided to hell with fluid changes? Granted, I wouldn't touch it at 102k miles either, but just curious.

Edit: Wow...just saw that other ATF thread. I am not trying to imply anything one way or another. Just curiosity. You're doing what Mazda says, so just curious.
 
Last edited:
If the tranny breaks, who gets the blame in this scenario? Mazda for suggesting it as "lifetime" yet refusing to define what that means, or you who decided to hell with fluid changes? Granted, I wouldn't touch it at 102k miles either, but just curious.

Edit: Wow...just saw that other ATF thread. I am not trying to imply anything one way or another. Just curiosity. You're doing what Mazda says, so just curious.

It depends on how and why it breaks. If something shears or snaps or if it just begins slipping or what. Also, a fluid analysis will be sent. Let's just wait and see. If it is determined that the fluid is the direct cause, I will of course pursue Mazda to cover a new transmission. Again, we will see how that evolves. If.
 
It depends on how and why it breaks. If something shears or snaps or if it just begins slipping or what. Also, a fluid analysis will be sent. Let's just wait and see. If it is determined that the fluid is the direct cause, I will of course pursue Mazda to cover a new transmission. Again, we will see how that evolves. If.

Makes sense. But I sincerely hope you have no problems! (thumb)
 
Makes sense. But I sincerely hope you have no problems! (thumb)

Thanks, and we will see. Hopefully not. I know my grandparents got 367K out of their Toyota and it's doing fine, and my Dad retired his Chevy work van at 438K? as it was finally burning too much oil. If my CX5 cannot make it to 200K, I'll be dumping the brand and going with a different one (provided the reason it dies isn't a 1-off type failure like something random sheared, etc. that can happen to anything). Mainly what I'm looking for is "is it falling apart?" My Jeep won that distinction before it even hit 100K, lol! My 370Z was just of such low initial quality that I got rid of it before 3/36 and will never own another Nissan again. So it's basically the CX5T, WRX, AMG43GLC, or RAV4 Hybrid. Why the RAV? Because I drive a lot and 40mpg is the s***, and it's going to last a long damn time if the Prius and their other hybrids are any indicator.
 
This video by engineering explained talks about Italian Tune ups from a technical point of view.. it's pretty informative. I get this when I do canyon run cruises but I also wot often anyways.
 
How difficult to plumb this into a 14 2.5L? Anyone done this yet?
Basically looking for where to tap into the PCV circuit.
 
I see there's already an "oil separator", as the car comes from the factory, shows in pictures here:

Mazda CX-5 Service & Repair Manual - Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Removal/Installation - Emissions

Has anyone added an Oil Catch Can, spliced into the hose between PCV valve and intake manifold? How much did it catch? I'm a little concerned with direct injectors, that they don't get "washed" by gasoline.

I've installed Moroso 85474 on another vehicle, but they are pricey.
I have this unit installed on my 2018 CX 5 and it definitely does the job it's intended. It not only catches oil droplets but moisture condenses into it as well. I hand clean my valves every 40,000 KM
and noticed on the last inspection it was not necessary. I empty the can with every oil change which is about 5500 KM's. You can find the unit and a full installation video here if interested:

 
When I researched these, I decided against installing one because of reports like the following:
  1. Garage stink
  2. Engine seals leaking
  3. Moisture freezing in the can in the winter
I figured that a walnut blast every 50-100K miles is the better option.
 
When I researched these, I decided against installing one because of reports like the following:
  1. Garage stink
  2. Engine seals leaking
  3. Moisture freezing in the can in the winter
I figured that a walnut blast every 50-100K miles is the better option.
You area absolutely right on one count but the other two are bogus. There exists a possibility of collected moisture freezing but the proximity of the CC ensures it heats up quite quickly and any moisture present is found in the bottom of the can not the stainless screening. Of course you can manually clean you valves if so equipped and capable but cleaning is recommended more frequently that what you've indicated anyway. No, there are no garage odours as this remains a closed system, and no there are no leaking seals ( have no idea where you received that information ). It would though be interesting to know how much valve blasting costs - I've heard (unsubstatiated) that it could run as high as $500. I totally disagree with spraying the cleaning solutions into the intake plenum - why anyone would wash the valve carbon into the cumbustion chamber and down to the rings is beyond me and seems counter productive. So, yes, each to his own with this issue. I also question exactly how much residue from blasting ( weather walnut or soda ) finds it's way up the valve guides or into engine components where it doesn't belong such as the low-slung alternator windings vented cooling fan motors and other apparatus open to atmosphere. I have zero issue with the catch can regardless if the vehicle is parked in the garage or outside but what I dump out of it each oil change ( 1 oz in 5500Km ) indicates less going into the valve area. I haven't heard of anyone removing and cleaning the factory CC mounted to the side of the engine below the plenum but if you do, you maybe somewhat surprised to find what has accumulated in there, that, and at the bottom of the plastic intake. Out of sight, out of mind!
 
No, there are no garage odours as this remains a closed system, and no there are no leaking seals ( have no idea where you received that information ).
There are reports of both and I saw enough people reverting to stock that I decided it's best for me to skip it.
 
There are reports of both and I saw enough people reverting to stock that I decided it's best for me to skip it.

Likely due to botched installations or faulty/defective materials or products. A properly installed, good quality product would not cause these issues.
 
There are reports of both and I saw enough people reverting to stock that I decided it's best for me to skip it.
I would be curious about all these people reverting back. My son's 2018 Mustang that has a catch can option sold by Ford (including all hardware and factory replacement lines) and it mounts and pipes the same way as mine on my CX5. We're talking a $58,000 car here with a Coyote V8 not an econ-box with a 2.5. If it's good enough for Ford to do this I would think it must be a pretty good idea. I agree with "sm1ke" and would think that not all products in this category are created equal.
Truth is, You buy cheap, you get cheap just like radiators, tires, brake rotors etc.
 
Back