What have you done to your CX-5 today?

Lowered Monday on Eibach ProKit.
PXL_20230509_121451007~2.jpg
 
I've seen several guys on here talk about doing this. What was the effect on your cars ride and the handling characteristics?


Feels tighter but not much stiffer than the stock ride. I didn't change the stock struts and shocks.
The car feels more planted.

I was really worried that the ride would be ruined but that's not the case at all. It feels really close to stock when driving over bumps and stays nice and flat when cornering, accelerating and braking.

Plus the CX-5 is now has the perfect amount of wheel gap (for me).
 
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2019 Cx5 Turbo sig
I’ve since installed the CS TIP, CS Axleback, and CS SRI + Heat shield. Today, did some DIY thermal insulation 💯

Used a Rain Collar and some weatherstripping. I think the ambient and intake temps have been lower!
 

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2019 Cx5 Turbo sig
I’ve since installed the CS TIP, CS Axleback, and CS SRI + Heat shield. Today, did some DIY thermal insulation 💯

Used a Rain Collar and some weatherstripping. I think the ambient and intake temps have been lower!

How would what you've done lower the ambient temps?
 
Upgraded my subwoofer setup, installed the Big 3, ran new power and ground, new amp and subwoofer. everything is 0/1AWG wire now.
Would love to know how and what you connected for the big 3 as I’m in the middle of doing my CX-5 full 1/0 and not sure the best approach to connect the alternator to the main battery, especially because will likely require a 200-250Amp generator upgrade so was thinking of just running the extra alternator wire straight to the battery positive using a KnuKonceptz terminal with OEM integration post to allow the OEM fused terminal/hub to just slide onto that integration post, I believe I will have to fuse the add on 1/0 wire from alternator to battery (at the battery) with a 250amp fuse. It’s confusing because the OEM terminal hub has a 250 Amp fuse labeled starter and another 200 Amp fuse labeled Main, don’t think I want to mess with that was thinking straight to the battery is best?!?
 
I got a full set of OEM 19" rims for $300 CAD, which I thought was a great deal. I spent a few hours cleaning them all up - did a deep clean before taking a clay bay to them to get rid of the remaining yellow staining.

Overall I think they look pretty good and after getting some new tires a couple weeks ago, I finally had some time to put them on today. Went with Continental DWS06+ in slightly larger than OEM at 235/55 R19.

NewShoes.webp Alloys.webp

I also replaced some belts and the belt tensioner over the weekend, so I'm feeling better about that. The old tensioner looked to have been leaking oil and the belt was looking pretty worn out and cracking. The next project will be to sand and respray the headlights, as those are starting to show their age after being parked outside for almost 7 years now.

Engine.webp S-Belt.webp Tensioner.webp
 
wow it's the actual Mazda branded part. Many of us have opted for the identical INA-labeled part from RockAuto which goes for much less $. Identical in every visible aspect aside from the Mazda logo.
 
It would be great to have a post that lists all the parts you can get cheaper from the manufacturer, like the NGK ILKAR7L11 spark plugs that are less than half the price of the Mazda branded part.

 
It would be great to have a post that lists all the parts you can get cheaper from the manufacturer, like the NGK ILKAR7L11 spark plugs that are less than half the price of the Mazda branded part.

$40 vs. $150+. I think there may be a similar thread dedicated to the tensioner also. I installed this one in early 2021.


 
I'm assuming he's talking about part FT01291?

I had an MVI to pass in this case and couldn't wait for the part to arrive with upcoming vacation planned. My fault for not planning further ahead but time gets away from you with kids. Rock Auto has been great in the past, but it usually takes a week or so for parts to arrive.
 

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