Coolant questions for 2014 CX-5

agaurav

Member
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2014 Mazda CX-5 Fwd Touring
I got oil change for my 2014 CX-5 Touring recently at a local service shop (not Mazda). The tech told me that the coolant was low and that it is time for coolant service.

My car is 3 months short of 10 years and has 106K miles on it in California. I am handy around the house but haven't worked on the car or engine other than changing air and cabin filters and 12v battery.

So can I just drain the coolant and add new?
Can I just top off or at these many miles I should not just drain but rather flush?

If flush, then it appears lot more work that you run water thru and then run engine etc, correct? Maybe that is a job best left for a tech then.

Finally, I searched but seems that FL-22 is in short supply or unavailable at almost all websites that I searched. If so, then what are Mazda service centers doing? Adding something else? If I add a different brand then I do need to do a flush, correct?
 
The manual says the engine coolant change schedule is:
Replace at first 192,000 km (120,000 miles) or 10 years; after that, every 96,000 km (60,000 miles) or 5 years.

And the remark:
*2 Use of FL-22 is recommended when replacing engine coolant. Using engine coolant other than FL-22 may cause serious damage to the engine and cooling system.

In theory you can use different type of coolant only if you can drain the old coolant “completely”. The problem is even if you “flush” the coolant system, there still can be some leftover old FL-22 coolant in there. I’d stick with FL-22 for the coolant change on the CX-5.

You still have some time to change the coolant especially you’re in California. As long as your coolant level is above the “L” mark in the reservoir, you can take time to find the FL-22 coolant. Or you can add some distilled water to top off temporarily. I prefer FL-22 concentrate but it’s only available in aftermarket brands.

The main problem replacing the coolant on the CX-5 is there isn’t a drain hole on the cylinder block like many other engines do. To make sure we can drain the old coolant more completely, many do “drain-and-fill” multiple times like changing the ATF.

There should have some DIY coolant replacement discussions somewhere in this forum such as:

2.5T Coolant Leak/Engine Replacement

The kit mentioned in the discussion is very useful to eliminate trapped air pockets during the coolant refill.
 
The manual says the engine coolant change schedule is:
Replace at first 192,000 km (120,000 miles) or 10 years; after that, every 96,000 km (60,000 miles) or 5 years.

And the remark:
*2 Use of FL-22 is recommended when replacing engine coolant. Using engine coolant other than FL-22 may cause serious damage to the engine and cooling system.

In theory you can use different type of coolant only if you can drain the old coolant “completely”. The problem is even if you “flush” the coolant system, there still can be some leftover old FL-22 coolant in there. I’d stick with FL-22 for the coolant change on the CX-5.

You still have some time to change the coolant especially you’re in California. As long as your coolant level is above the “L” mark in the reservoir, you can take time to find the FL-22 coolant. Or you can add some distilled water to top off temporarily. I prefer FL-22 concentrate but it’s only available in aftermarket brands.

The main problem replacing the coolant on the CX-5 is there isn’t a drain hole on the cylinder block like many other engines do. To make sure we can drain the old coolant more completely, many do “drain-and-fill” multiple times like changing the ATF.

There should have some DIY coolant replacement discussions somewhere in this forum such as:

2.5T Coolant Leak/Engine Replacement

The kit mentioned in the discussion is very useful to eliminate trapped air pockets during the coolant refill.
I've always done my own coolant flush in non-Mazda vehicles.

Normally I'm not a fan of going to a dealer or garage & paying for a powerflush. But at the point you have to drain and fill with expensive Mazda coolant multiple times... It may just be worth it to have a garage do a powerflush for you. Check the cost of having powerflush versus cost of coolant to DIY a few times.
If you choose to DIY and in a warm locale, flush with water a few times, then switch to coolant until your reading is good on your coolant tester.
 

If you choose to DIY and in a warm locale, flush with water a few times, then switch to coolant until your reading is good on your coolant tester.
I used to use distilled water drain and fill several times with the engine running, then use a half amount of the total coolant capacity listed on the specs with “concentrated” coolant for refill after I drained distilled water fully from radiator and engine block drains. The theory is most liquid staying in the engine can’t be drained is mostly distilled water now, and I fill a half of the concentrated coolant first, then top off with distilled water to achieve the perfect 50:50 ratio.
 
Thanks all for your replies. I don't think I want to do the flush - seems more work that I think I will be able to do correctly. i.e., I am not confident that I can drain, install the plug, pour distilled water, run the engine, drain again and so forth.

I am thinking of just draining and filling the coolant. I will try to buy FL-22 by going to a Mazda dealer. If I can't get that from them then I will go a service shop and do the entire service for me. They quoted me $200. I didn't find any good YouTube video that show me how this is done otherwise would have had a bit more confidence to try.
 
Thanks all for your replies. I don't think I want to do the flush - seems more work that I think I will be able to do correctly. i.e., I am not confident that I can drain, install the plug, pour distilled water, run the engine, drain again and so forth.

I am thinking of just draining and filling the coolant. I will try to buy FL-22 by going to a Mazda dealer. If I can't get that from them then I will go a service shop and do the entire service for me. They quoted me $200. I didn't find any good YouTube video that show me how this is done otherwise would have had a bit more confidence to try.
Go to Amazon and search for Mazda FL22 coolant!
 
Thanks all for your replies. I don't think I want to do the flush - seems more work that I think I will be able to do correctly. i.e., I am not confident that I can drain, install the plug, pour distilled water, run the engine, drain again and so forth.

I am thinking of just draining and filling the coolant. I will try to buy FL-22 by going to a Mazda dealer. If I can't get that from them then I will go a service shop and do the entire service for me. They quoted me $200. I didn't find any good YouTube video that show me how this is done otherwise would have had a bit more confidence to try.
Yeah you would need 3 gallons of mazda coolant (2 plus 1 extra) for the flush/change. At $33 per gallon (Paid that last month) , you would be at least $100 into DIY plus any coolant tester and catch pans(if you dont have any).
 
Go to Amazon and search for Mazda FL22 coolant!
Oh I did. And on Advance Auto, Rock Auto, Zoro, and other sites. Only Ebay has some. Amazon has third-party FL-22 replacements which will imply that I have to flush and can't just drain and add new.
 
Yeah you would need 3 gallons of mazda coolant (2 plus 1 extra) for the flush/change. At $33 per gallon (Paid that last month) , you would be at least $100 into DIY plus any coolant tester and catch pans(if you dont have any).
Would you say that I must flush? I don't think I have a leak anyways as it has been 100K miles and only now the level is low (probably slow burn and evaporation over 10 years).

In that case, can I just buy 2 gallons and drain and add new? Or just add 1 gallon new and no need to drain?
 
Would you say that I must flush? I don't think I have a leak anyways as it has been 100K miles and only now the level is low (probably slow burn and evaporation over 10 years).

In that case, can I just buy 2 gallons and drain and add new? Or just add 1 gallon new and no need to drain?
The purpose of the flush is to get everything out of there.

At the point its getting drained, i've always flushed with distilled water a few times to give it a good cleaning then refill.

I guess you could just do a drain and refill but imo, if it's gonna be in there another 5 to 10 years why not flush and do it 100 % ??

Manual calls for approx. 2 gallons capacity.If you flush you will need 2 gallons. plus an extra 3rd gallon(just in case).

Yrwei mentioned you can't drain that much because of drain valve location. So not sure how much will drain out. If you are just doing a drain and fill you should probably have at least 2 gallons on hand. The whole process is simple, just sounds like more time consuming PIA due to only partial drains. If you DIY, you might want to replace the thermostat too.

Also, if your in a snowbelt states, dont do a flush with water in the middle of winter. Wait until spring.
 
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I did my 2016.5 last summer. I had to go to dealer to find pre-mixed fl22. It's very expensive. I wasn't confident that other manufacturer's coolant was ideal.

I just drained from the bottom of radiator. Took 1 gallon. (I had bought 3!).

I'll probably do in 4 years, just as a simple way to ensure it's good.
 
I did my 2016.5 last summer. I had to go to dealer to find pre-mixed fl22. It's very expensive. I wasn't confident that other manufacturer's coolant was ideal.

I just drained from the bottom of radiator. Took 1 gallon. (I had bought 3!).

I'll probably do in 4 years, just as a simple way to ensure it's good.
Was it hard to drain from the radiator?
 
Would you say that I must flush? I don't think I have a leak anyways as it has been 100K miles and only now the level is low (probably slow burn and evaporation over 10 years).

In that case, can I just buy 2 gallons and drain and add new? Or just add 1 gallon new and no need to drain?
Here’s the engine coolant replacement procedure in Mazda’s FSM:

Mazda CX-5 Service & Repair Manual: Engine Coolant Replacement

And here’re several useful discussions for coolant replacement:
I’m probably going to perform the drain and fill procedure twice with the prediluted OEM coolant. It’s not ideal and costs a little more, but it’ll get a little more of the old stuff out.

I changed out my coolant last year with ZEREX ASIAN formula premix. It's blue colored. I drained and filled the radiator twice with some driving around in between to open the thermostat to ensure good mixing. Used exactly 2 of the gallon jugs. The little bit left that didn't fit in the radiator filled up the overflow reservoir. I got it at Advance Auto for $15 a jug with the 20% off for ordering online. Don't know what it costs these days.

As for Mazda FZ ATF, last year I paid $10/qt (bought 8 qts) from a Mazda dealer in Florida. Shipping was about $20 though so the order came to just over $100. It was enough for 2 drain and fills with 1/2 qt left over.
I've already flushed (my mechanic machine evacuated old fluid and pumped in new) both cars (CX-5 and Mazda 6).

In that case I can go with Peak Asian blue or green. They are the same stuff except for the color dye. In my case I had the blue pumped in.

...The cool part is the Peak with Yellow capped (All Vehicles) bottle is compatible with either one. I noticed Peak played it safe and made their Peak Asian Blue/Green as well as the Yellow capped (All Vehicles) to be (an OAT coolant free of 2-EHA, silicate, nitrite, borate, and amines). So now I can top off as needed easily. Peak Yellow capped (All Vehicles) bottles can be found at Autozone, Target, WM, Harbor Freight, ect.

For DIY, you can drain-and-fill with distilled water with engine running in between, then use OEM 55/45 premixed FL-22 coolant for the last fill, engine running, then drain (manual flush).

Or you can pay the garage with flush machine like CX-5um did.
 
Was it hard to drain from the radiator?
No, it’s easier than draining the engine oil. Just be careful the engine is not hot. Follow the instruction from the service manual I posted above.
 
No, it’s easier than draining the engine oil. Just be careful the engine is not hot. Follow the instruction from the service manual I posted above.
Got it. I think this doesn't sound too difficult. I will try to flush it as well by filling with distilled water and running the engine and draining it again.

And then fill with either FL-22 or another third-party one that is listed as a replacement. Thank you.
 
Got it. I think this doesn't sound too difficult. I will try to flush it as well by filling with distilled water and running the engine and draining it again.

And then fill with either FL-22 or another third-party one that is listed as a replacement. Thank you.
I believe FL22 is a waterless coolant!
 
FL22 is a longlife HOAT coolant. You can mix a std. HOAT Coolant. Zerex sell HOAT coolant for Asian cars. Comes in three different colors Green, blue and yellow. The only thing that happens if you use Zerex is that you shorten the service life of the coolant.
 
Got it. I think this doesn't sound too difficult. I will try to flush it as well by filling with distilled water and running the engine and draining it again.

And then fill with either FL-22 or another third-party one that is listed as a replacement. Thank you.
That’s what I’d do, except I’d use distilled water a couple of times first, then fill “pre-mixed” OEM FL-22 coolant for final run of “flush” and drain (so that the left-over liquid in the system you can’t drain out has plenty of fresh “pre-mixed” FL-22 coolant, not distilled water. see Jmaz’s post above), unless I can get “concentrated” FL-22 coolant that would be easier to do as stated in the FSM.

And if you’ve decided to DIY, do get that Lisle 24680 funnel kit (or something similar) mentioned by Kedis82ZE8 with the link in post #2 which is very helpful to eliminate trapped air pockets in the Collins system for the FINAL coolant fill.
 
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