Brand new to the forum here, seeking help on a problem I have with my 2016 Mazda CX-5 Sport AWD. I'm of the belief I may have a parasitic battery drain. I've done a bunch of troubleshooting but am out of my depth at this point. Here's what I've done so far...
Disconnected negative battery cable and put a multimeter in series to see if their is a draw. Indeed there is, in the amount of about 1.7 amps. Thereafter I started probing individual fuses in the fuse boxes both under the hood and in the cabin near the driver's side door. The only fuse I can seem to find any loss on is number 28 in the fuse box located under the hood, in the amount of .2 mv, which doesn't seem like much to me. It's the only one showing any loss at all, though. I then put my multimeter back in series on the battery and pulled fuse number 28 out. That caused my previous 1.7 amp draw to drop to around .80 amps. So I would say that's definitely part of the issue. I'm thinking there has to be something else too though, as from what I've read the draw shouldn't be any higher than about .50 amps at most when the vehicle is completely off.
So I'm lost in two ways at this point:
1.) Fuse number 28 is AT - transmission control system, ignition lock. So what does that tell me at this point? What do I check next?
2.) Fuse number 28 drops some of the draw, but not all of it/still not to an acceptable level. So something else is clearly wrong, too. As I mentioned though, I can't find any other fuses that have loss. So I'm not sure what else could be causing the draw.
Again, I'm way out of my depth here and have pretty much zero skill in anything related to electronics. So please forgive my naivety and perhaps poor description of what I've done so far. What I've done thus far I've gathered exclusively from internet searches and YouTube videos.
I'd greatly appreciate any insight anyone might be able to offer me here.
Thanks!
Disconnected negative battery cable and put a multimeter in series to see if their is a draw. Indeed there is, in the amount of about 1.7 amps. Thereafter I started probing individual fuses in the fuse boxes both under the hood and in the cabin near the driver's side door. The only fuse I can seem to find any loss on is number 28 in the fuse box located under the hood, in the amount of .2 mv, which doesn't seem like much to me. It's the only one showing any loss at all, though. I then put my multimeter back in series on the battery and pulled fuse number 28 out. That caused my previous 1.7 amp draw to drop to around .80 amps. So I would say that's definitely part of the issue. I'm thinking there has to be something else too though, as from what I've read the draw shouldn't be any higher than about .50 amps at most when the vehicle is completely off.
So I'm lost in two ways at this point:
1.) Fuse number 28 is AT - transmission control system, ignition lock. So what does that tell me at this point? What do I check next?
2.) Fuse number 28 drops some of the draw, but not all of it/still not to an acceptable level. So something else is clearly wrong, too. As I mentioned though, I can't find any other fuses that have loss. So I'm not sure what else could be causing the draw.
Again, I'm way out of my depth here and have pretty much zero skill in anything related to electronics. So please forgive my naivety and perhaps poor description of what I've done so far. What I've done thus far I've gathered exclusively from internet searches and YouTube videos.
I'd greatly appreciate any insight anyone might be able to offer me here.
Thanks!