2017 CX-5 Check Engine Light with error code P2610

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Mississauga, CA
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2017 CX-5 GT
2017 Mazda CX-5 GT. I've recently replaced my brakes I started to get the CEL with error code P2610. During the replacement, I put the e-brakes in maintenance mode to be able to fit the new pads and rotors. I made sure I followed the procedure posted here and ended the maintenance mode correctly.

Troubleshooting steps I've taken so far:
- checked the battery and it's good (>14V)
- replaced one flickering dome LED bulb (aftermarket purchased on Amazon) but left the other functioning ones in place
- checked the 15A fuse (there is a TSB for that) and it's good

I reset the error code but it came back the next day. The car has no accessories installed other than a remote starter iDatastart (installed 3 years ago) which works fine with the exception that when I use it, it disables the Auto-Hold brake function (it was like that from the beginning).

I'm running out of ideas. Does anyone know what else I can check? Thanks in advance
 
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Solution
Problem solved! Swapped the battery with a Kirkland from Costco and both the CEL and DTC code went away. I still can't believe the battery lasted less than 4 years. I still remember the day when I changed the OEM battery on my 1998 Corolla after 11 years and that's after I left it sitting in the garage for 2 months...thank you guys!
Thanks but tried that already and the battery is within parameters. Must be something else
 
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I'm guessing you got 14v from idling/charging. Did you do a load test on the battery? If you are still rocking the original battery, it is now 3+ yr old which is why I suspect is the battery.
 
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I'm guessing you got 14v from idling/charging. Did you do a load test on the battery? If you are still rocking the original battery, it is now 3+ yr old which is why I suspect is the battery.
I noticed from the other thread that you had the same problem and changing the battery fixed it. Did you measure low voltage before starting the engine? If so do you remember how low?
 
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I noticed from the other thread that you had the same problem and changing the battery fixed it. Did you measure low voltage before starting the engine? If so do you remember how low?
I didn't measure because I knew my battery was going soon. I started to experience mild difficulty of turning over. What happened to me was when I tried to start the car, it cranked but it was too weak to turn over and I guess misfire happened, but then a second after it cranked again and started. I drove about 200 miles in a period of two days thinking it would clear itself since I did not experience any further hiccup. As soon as I put a new battery in and started the car, the code went away. Hope this helps.
 
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here is a picture when my battery was in a dying state.
Car started/cranked very slowly - same way as Silly Wabbit mentioned.
You could still start and drive the car after it recharges a bit from some driving but it was a matter of time to stop totally.
No error codes for me but I changed the battery proactively.

20210218_185503.jpg


You have to measure it under load.
seeing 14V at the battery posts when engine is running is nothing more than showing your alternator is good but doesnt show anything about the battery. May be stop by some of the Auto shops they can test for free I think.
You may have to let it rest for a bit before testing.
 
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Thanks but tried that already and the battery is within parameters. Must be something else
Like others have said, your factory Panasonic battery is over 3 years old and it’s very likely the performance is not up to the par. It needs a load test to find out the actual battery condition, and those auto parts stores such as AutoZone can do it for you.

My factory Panasonic battery lasted 5 years and 8 months, and got replaced last October. The only trouble sign of weak battery was the EPB warning light at the first start in the morning. Apparently the week battery couldn’t drive the EPB motors but the engine start was fine. No CELs.

Getting a new battery is also the cheapest thing to do in your situation. A Costco Interstate Group 35 battery costs only $79.
 
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Problem solved! Swapped the battery with a Kirkland from Costco and both the CEL and DTC code went away. I still can't believe the battery lasted less than 4 years. I still remember the day when I changed the OEM battery on my 1998 Corolla after 11 years and that's after I left it sitting in the garage for 2 months...thank you guys!
 
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Solution
... I still can't believe the battery lasted less than 4 years ...
I've seen enough electrical problems solved by a new battery to be a believer! It's amazing how dependent on a solid power supply all these new cars are!

Glad your problems are solved (with an inexpensive battery too).
 
Upvote 0
Problem solved! Swapped the battery with a Kirkland from Costco and both the CEL and DTC code went away. I still can't believe the battery lasted less than 4 years. I still remember the day when I changed the OEM battery on my 1998 Corolla after 11 years and that's after I left it sitting in the garage for 2 months...thank you guys!
Now you know replacing battery is a cheap way to resolve many weird electrical issues. ;)

A friend of mine in Connecticut whose OEM battery in his 2003 Lexus LX 470 lasted 13 years and 100,000 miles at the time he sold the LX!
 
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2017 Mazda CX-5 GT. I've recently replaced my brakes I started to get the CEL with error code P2610. During the replacement, I put the e-brakes in maintenance mode to be able to fit the new pads and rotors. I made sure I followed the procedure posted here and ended the maintenance mode correctly.

Troubleshooting steps I've taken so far:
- checked the battery and it's good (>14V)
- replaced one flickering dome LED bulb (aftermarket purchased on Amazon) but left the other functioning ones in place
- checked the 15A fuse (there is a TSB for that) and it's good

I reset the error code but it came back the next day. The car has no accessories installed other than a remote starter iDatastart (installed 3 years ago) which works fine with the exception that when I use it, it disables the Auto-Hold brake function (it was like that from the beginning).

I'm running out of ideas. Does anyone know what else I can check? Thanks in advance
Just replaced with new battery and check light disappeared!
No one was able to tell me old unit was throwing out a low voltage.
Car started to have trouble starting then threw code.
Good luck
 
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