Do You Love Your Mazda? Ditch That 0W-20 Oil!!!

[Anchorman]

Do you seriously think the R&D of Mazda bothered switching to 0w20..? No sir.... it was the CAFE requirements that demanded this change for essentially every new auto manufacturer to squeeze every last drop of efficiency out of every vehicle in order to improve corporate averages. Great for the big brands, not so good for YOU and your OWN personal vehicle. I take 0w with a grain of salt after seeing 5w30 become the norm for over a decade now and reading up on the CAFE s***.

my hatred for Mobil 1... well... I’ve tried quite a few different oils and found that my engine consumed it at the quickest pace of them all.. castrol was better, but not by much. They are on the lower end of the oils I’ve tried. You guys haven’t tried using 5w30 oil yourselves, so you don’t understand what I’m talking about when I say that the engine is quieter and smoother. Why don’t you all try it yourselves since youre so skeptical? Instead of believing what you read online, try it yourself and pick what oil you think is best from your own personal findings. Stop being a bunch of damn sheep.

What I will say is that using 5W/30 semi synthetic certainly reduced oil consumption. I'll keep an open mind GJ but us diesel heads must use low ash oil which tends to be 0W/30 anyway. It's not cheap at about $80 a gallon either.

 

[GJ-Molestor]

What I will say is that using 5W/30 semi synthetic certainly reduced oil consumption. I'll keep an open mind GJ but us diesel heads must use low ash oil which tends to be 0W/30 anyway. It's not cheap at about $80 a gallon either.

for reasonably priced diesel oil, look no further then shell rotella t6 5w40...

 

[Unobtanium]

for reasonably priced diesel oil, look no further then shell rotella t6 5w40...

That is rather far from 0-30 if a 30 weight is spec'ed. It will cause abnormal wear, potentially. My father used to run 5-40 Rotella T in all of his 4.6L SOHC engines. They died like clockwork at about 250k miles, and often enough it was main-bearing wear causing rod-knock, as well as oil burning. The engines were always very clean when torn down though, due to the formulation of Rotella. Still, I wonder how much further they would have gone, had he used a 30 weight...

 

[Unobtanium]

Do you seriously think the R&D of Mazda bothered switching to 0w20..? No sir.... it was the CAFE requirements that demanded this change for essentially every new auto manufacturer to squeeze every last drop of efficiency out of every vehicle in order to improve corporate averages. Great for the big brands, not so good for YOU and your OWN personal vehicle. I take 0w with a grain of salt after seeing 5w30 become the norm for over a decade now and reading up on the CAFE s***.

my hatred for Mobil 1... well... Ive tried quite a few different oils and found that my engine consumed it at the quickest pace of them all.. castrol was better, but not by much. They are on the lower end of the oils Ive tried. You guys havent tried using 5w30 oil yourselves, so you dont understand what Im talking about when I say that the engine is quieter and smoother. Why dont you all try it yourselves since youre so skeptical? Instead of believing what you read online, try it yourself and pick what oil you think is best from your own personal findings. Stop being a bunch of damn sheep.

The fuel savings from using 0-20 instead of a 30 weight are MUCH LESS than the fuel LOSSES Mazda took going to the 2017 model CX-5 that everyone keeps playing off, including Mazda...

 

[GJ-Molestor]

That is rather far from 0-30 if a 30 weight is spec'ed. It will cause abnormal wear, potentially. My father used to run 5-40 Rotella T in all of his 4.6L SOHC engines. They died like clockwork at about 250k miles, and often enough it was main-bearing wear causing rod-knock, as well as oil burning. The engines were always very clean when torn down though, due to the formulation of Rotella. Still, I wonder how much further they would have gone, had he used a 30 weight...

I can assure you that 5w40 is not too thick for a 5w30 engine, unless there has been specifically recorded instances of that particular engine not liking the thicker oil. I am especially convinced that this is fine for older engines, because bearing clearances were pretty generous back then.

shell rotella is an excellent quality oil, but it is detergent based since its primary use is for diesel engines to help fight soot. it is possible that the bearings died early because of all the detergents this oil has, despite the fact that the oil is very good quality in terms of long-term protection.

for this reason, it is recommended not to stick to rotella permanently for oil changes in a gasoline motor because the detergents will be to much. running it occaisonally will help keep things clean within your engine which is especially important for our engines with Direct injection, because this fuel delivery system causes your oil to get dirty faster.

 

[Unobtanium]

I can assure you that 5w40 is not too thick for a 5w30 engine, unless there has been specifically recorded instances of that particular engine not liking the thicker oil. I am especially convinced that this is fine for older engines, because bearing clearances were pretty generous back then.

shell rotella is an excellent quality oil, but it is detergent based since its primary use is for diesel engines to help fight soot. it is possible that the bearings died early because of all the detergents this oil has, despite the fact that the oil is very good quality in terms of long-term protection.

for this reason, it is recommended not to stick to rotella permanently for oil changes in a gasoline motor because the detergents will be to much. running it occaisonally will help keep things clean within your engine which is especially important for our engines with Direct injection, because this fuel delivery system causes your oil to get dirty faster.

How will detergents harm bearings? Aren't they all made of lead/tin just the same?

5/40 is about 30% thicker than 5-30 at operating temp...

 

[GJ-Molestor]

How will detergents harm bearings? Aren't they all made of lead/tin just the same?

5/40 is about 30% thicker than 5-30 at operating temp...

yea so i'm not sure about that, but i did hear that using rotella for extended periods of time isnt good for the engine because of the detergents. the oil offers a lot of protection though so i highly doubt the bearings broke because of that.

many different engines specced for 5w30 have been recorded to use 5w40 oils like rotella with no problems. if the oil was in fact too thick for the bearings, youw ould be able to tell just by the sound.

 

[blackcx5]

ok GJ-Molestor, I'll bite, I do agree this engine is spec'd for 5w30 every else so 0w20 may be linked to the CAFE bull$hit,

also I've been using the expensive Mazda moly oil from Med Mazda exclusively every 5000 miles

and I do see 1 quart oil missing every time I do oil changes,

I have 5 empty quarts lined up ready to fill with old oil and old oily only fills up 4 empty bottles.

Anyway, I'm due for an oil change and will try per your original post and let other members know if I see a difference,

which Liqui-moly p/n did you use, Amazon shows 3 different types:

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[GJ-Molestor]

ok GJ-Molestor, I'll bite, I do agree this engine is spec'd for 5w30 every else so 0w20 may be linked to the CAFE bull$hit,

also I've been using the expensive Mazda moly oil from Med Mazda exclusively every 5000 miles

and I do see 1 quart oil missing every time I do oil changes,

I have 5 empty quarts lined up ready to fill with old oil and old oily only fills up 4 empty bottles.

Anyway, I'm due for an oil change and will try per your original post and let other members know if I see a difference,

which Liqui-moly p/n did you use, Amazon shows 3 different types:

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http://www.liquimoly.co.za/oil-guide/

It does not really matter which one you choose. personally I would go with the LM # 2011. here is the one I used although they are all similar enough:

https://products.liqui-moly.com/leichtlauf-high-tech-5w-40-5.html

just pop the hood before you change the oil and listen to your engine with the old oil vs once you change it to liqui moly. take it for a spin after and notice the difference. if you could also report back as to how it helps oil consumption it would be helpful to all the skeptical people out there. maybe some videos comparing the engine sound before and after + a quick write-up would be great.

 

[banjos-n-beer]

Again. Why does he have to prove your point?

 

[Unobtanium]

yea so i'm not sure about that, but i did hear that using rotella for extended periods of time isnt good for the engine because of the detergents. the oil offers a lot of protection though so i highly doubt the bearings broke because of that.

many different engines specced for 5w30 have been recorded to use 5w40 oils like rotella with no problems. if the oil was in fact too thick for the bearings, youw ould be able to tell just by the sound.

What sound would that be? Sub optimal flow at 5000rpm isn't going to sound crazy...

 

[GJ-Molestor]

What sound would that be? Sub optimal flow at 5000rpm isn't going to sound crazy...

The majority of engine operation is at or below 2500rpm.

If the oil is too thick for your engine, Im sure youd be able to notice...

But 5w40 just isnt thick enough for the vast majority of engines.

 

[Unobtanium]

The majority of engine operation is at or below 2500rpm.

If the oil is too thick for your engine, I’m sure you’d be able to notice...

But 5w40 just isn’t thick enough for the vast majority of engines.

I did, for all we know. The bearings wore out at 200 to 250k miles.

 

[Anchorman]

for reasonably priced diesel oil, look no further then shell rotella t6 5w40...

You see, you won't even let anybody be nice to you without sticking your oar in. My car cost 35k (about $40k) and you are quite happy to use your know it all whims to tell me to put the wrong oil in the engine and absolutely no regard for the consequences for the untold damage it will do. It's yet to be seen how US diesels will be configured but even if they come with urea injection, they will also come with a particulate filter. In that case your superior knowledge and determination to get owners to use anything other than what Mazda tell them is going to land them with thousands of dollars worth of repairs. You MUST not go off your own way with these lubricants because Mazda WILL walk away from warranty claims. You come out with this mad cap "If you love your Mazda don't use the proper oil" BS with no regard for whether their car is still under warranty. If somebody suing the arse off you is what it takes to think about what you put on the internet, I hope it happens in a monumental fashion because this thread needs to stop. Who do you think you are?

 

[Anchorman]

http://www.liquimoly.co.za/oil-guide/

It does not really matter which one you choose. personally I would go with the LM # 2011. here is the one I used although they are all similar enough:

https://products.liqui-moly.com/leichtlauf-high-tech-5w-40-5.html

just pop the hood before you change the oil and listen to your engine with the old oil vs once you change it to liqui moly. take it for a spin after and notice the difference. if you could also report back as to how it helps oil consumption it would be helpful to all the skeptical people out there. maybe some videos comparing the engine sound before and after + a quick write-up would be great.

Under what conditions does he do this completely uncontrolled experiment? Will it be done in a semi anechoic chamber with accurate sound measuring equipment or like a loony who listens to a hot engine then tries to compare some time later the sound of an engine that just had new oil added? If you do the same with old and new same grade oil it might sound different but not that a clever clogs can hear it without controlled conditions. To try to conclude that this is evidence of doing your engine good is just pathetic.

 

[batmancx]

wait, you're original 1st post recommended using 5w30 :

Thought I would share my experience switching from the Castrol 0w-20 garbage to Liqui-Moly 5w30. the engine felt much more refined. it ran 10x quieter and smoother then before, no more valvetrain clatter! just the smooth ticking sound of the DI. it revs smoother and overall feels much more solid then before. oil consumption has dropped from 1L every 9000KM to 1L every 15,000+KM.

overall, highly recommend you do this if you live in a hot climate or drive the car hard. your con rod bearings will thank you...

now before i get blasted for this idea, please look up the CAFE requirements and understand why manufacturers slowly started to switch to thinner and thinner oil.

which is ok since Mazda list that for Mexico Russia and maybe just perhaps USA is listed 0W20 to meet CAFE requirements...... BUT now you're telling us you're using 5w40 which isn't even recommended by Mazda.....

http://www.liquimoly.co.za/oil-guide/

It does not really matter which one you choose. personally I would go with the LM # 2011. here is the one I used although they are all similar enough:

https://products.liqui-moly.com/leichtlauf-high-tech-5w-40-5.html

just pop the hood before you change the oil and listen to your engine with the old oil vs once you change it to liqui moly. take it for a spin after and notice the difference. if you could also report back as to how it helps oil consumption it would be helpful to all the skeptical people out there. maybe some videos comparing the engine sound before and after + a quick write-up would be great.

I was following you with the 5w30 logic but now you're just experimenting with stuff that hasn't been tested or approved by Mazda..... maybe the lack of sound is the thicker oil gumming up your bearings....... it's your car, if you mess it up, don't blame us.

why don't you make a high definition recording of your 5w40 engine and let us be the judge, we can probably tell if there is a difference or not.

 

[Chris_Top_Her]

In light of very recent events, I will never ever be putting 0w-20 into my engine again. I don't need the economy and I drive max performance, as well as living in a triple digit climate.
Just some stuff I bought today.

 

[murky]

What's the gasket maker for?

 

[GJ-Molestor]

You see, you won't even let anybody be nice to you without sticking your oar in. My car cost 35k (about $40k) and you are quite happy to use your know it all whims to tell me to put the wrong oil in the engine and absolutely no regard for the consequences for the untold damage it will do. It's yet to be seen how US diesels will be configured but even if they come with urea injection, they will also come with a particulate filter. In that case your superior knowledge and determination to get owners to use anything other than what Mazda tell them is going to land them with thousands of dollars worth of repairs. You MUST not go off your own way with these lubricants because Mazda WILL walk away from warranty claims. You come out with this mad cap "If you love your Mazda don't use the proper oil" BS with no regard for whether their car is still under warranty. If somebody suing the arse off you is what it takes to think about what you put on the internet, I hope it happens in a monumental fashion because this thread needs to stop. Who do you think you are?

Calm yourself. You can go onto the internet and google shell rotella Mazda once youve quit your rant. Theres nothing wrong with using a good 5w40 weight once your warranty concerns are out of the way.

For the sake of your mental health, we continue on this thread on the basis of using 5w30 ONLY.

wait, you're original 1st post recommended using 5w30:

which is ok since Mazda list that for Mexico Russia and maybe just perhaps USA is listed 0W20 to meet CAFE requirements...... BUT now you're telling us you're using 5w40 which isn't even recommended by Mazda.....

I was following you with the 5w30 logic but now you're just experimenting with stuff that hasn't been tested or approved by Mazda..... maybe the lack of sound is the thicker oil gumming up your bearings....... it's your car, if you mess it up, don't blame us. why don't you make a high definition recording of your 5w40 engine and let us be the judge, we can probably tell if there is a difference or not.

No sir, my apologies. I have a BMW as a second car which is the car I used the 5w40 oil with. I dont mean to cause this confusion, but only 5w30 and some 0w20 weights were tested in the Mazda.

With that being said, 5w40 use has been recorded on forums to cause absolutely zero harm to your engine bearings. There is no risk in using it out of warranty. Direct injection vehicles, particularly mazdas design which has a lot of fuel dilution benefits from oil with some detergents.

 

[GJ-Molestor]

In light of very recent events, I will never ever be putting 0w-20 into my engine again. I don't need the economy and I drive max performance, as well as living in a triple digit climate.
Just some stuff I bought today.

This is good oil. If you could do a quick write-up with any differences in how the engine feels that would be helpful for the sake of some people on here

From what Ive researched and tested, Motul is by far the strongest oil. Its one of the few capable of providing a lot of engine protection even past your oil change interval.