Fumoto Oil Drain Valve Information

Hey guys, I came across a review on Amazon that brings up an issue with this valve. Below is the key part of the review:

A few months later, I went to replace the oil pan gasket so I drained the oil using this valve and removed the bolts around the pan. I noticed that when I tilted the pan, more oil drained even though the drain is located at the very lowest point in the pan. Then when the pan was removed, I saw why this was happening. It did not drain all of the oil. The valve extends into the pan.

The drain valve threads into the hole in the bottom of the pan, but it also extends through the hole, in my case by about 3/16". So when you open the valve, all but the last 3/16" of oil is drained, not ALL of the oil. Also, any thing heavy (carbon chips, metal chips) stays in the pan instead of draining out with the oil.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)


I was going to get this valve for the convenience factor, but not sure that's more important than getting all the old oil and fragments out. Your thoughts?
 
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I was going to get this valve for the convenience factor, but not sure that's more important than getting all the old oil and fragments out. Your thoughts?

Bingo! Oil drain valves are a solution looking for a problem.

Anyone who finds it too difficult to remove a plug to drain their oil a couple of times a year probably shouldn't be changing their own oil. You let the plug fall into the drain vessel as you unscrew it and after the oil has drained, you pick it up with your rag and wipe it off. That's why all oil drain vessels have a screen or obstruction big enough that the drain plug cannot fall into the vessel.

The other potential issue with a drain valve is failure. A properly torqued plug is not going to fail. Failure could happen from hitting a rock or other hard debris on the road at speed or it could simply leak due to a faulty valve. Of course drain valve failure is very rare so that alone is not a big reason to avoid them. And the fact that they don't allow a complete drain is, in the bigger picture, not a huge deal. The best reason to avoid them is that they are an unnecessary expense. I say "unnecessary" because a drain plug works very well and poses no issues. Besides, you don't have to buy the drain plug - it's included with the car for free!


Put the money in the bank or retirement account and let it grow, compounding every year for 20-40 years. You might be surprised how much it actually improves your life.
 
As I haven't yet purchased a CX-5, how many quarts of oil does it take?

I ask because if it takes 5 quarts, then having the Fumoto valve adapter would be mighty efficient in that you could drain the old oil straight into an empty 5qt oil jug (from your previous oil change) instead of having to use a drain pan.
 
As I haven't yet purchased a CX-5, how many quarts of oil does it take?

I ask because if it takes 5 quarts, then having the Fumoto valve adapter would be mighty efficient in that you could drain the old oil straight into an empty 5qt oil jug (from your previous oil change) instead of having to use a drain pan.

It makes oil changes pretty quick and simple, not to mention clean.


Mazda CX-5, 2.5L

pg 1178 in the engine section

0W 20

OEM Oil Filter
PE01-14-302A

Oil and oil filter replacement: 4.5 L (4.8 US qt, 4.0 Imp qt)

Torque:
Oil pan drain plug: 23—30 ftlbf
Oil filter: 9 -12 ft lbs

Edit: for a 2.5L CX5
 
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I put a full 5 quart jug in my 2.5 and with a new OEM oil filter, the oil level is within ~3/16 inch of the max line, so I'm good to go. Ed
 
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On ramps and letting it drain for an hour mine takes around 5.4 quarts to get to the full line on the dipstick.

I hope you level the car before you fill the engine with oil!
 
10% off with coupon---> FUMOTO10
http://www.qwikvalve.com/
Someone had mentioned that the thread of Fumoto oil drain valve is too long and it sticks out inside of oil pan. This prevents oil and debris if any to drain out completely. This is what he had found out after he took off the oil pan. I'd not use this valve just for this reason and the oil change on CX-5 is already the easiest you can find.
 
I can't dispute whether Fumoto valve does or doesn't t allow the cleanest possible drain but I rely on my OEM Mazda oil filter to address that concern. :)
You once drained the oil overnight and I bet you definitely wouldn't like Fumoto valve preventing the oil to drain out completely to the bottom of the oil pan... ;) BTW, I'll use Mazda oil filer for my first oil change too.
 
Hey guys, I came across a review on Amazon that brings up an issue with this valve. Below is the key part of the review:

A few months later, I went to replace the oil pan gasket so I drained the oil using this valve and removed the bolts around the pan. I noticed that when I tilted the pan, more oil drained even though the drain is located at the very lowest point in the pan. Then when the pan was removed, I saw why this was happening. It did not drain all of the oil. The valve extends into the pan.

The drain valve threads into the hole in the bottom of the pan, but it also extends through the hole, in my case by about 3/16". So when you open the valve, all but the last 3/16" of oil is drained, not ALL of the oil. Also, any thing heavy (carbon chips, metal chips) stays in the pan instead of draining out with the oil.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

I was going to get this valve for the convenience factor, but not sure that's more important than getting all the old oil and fragments out. Your thoughts?
F-106 w/o adapter
DSC_0290-640.jpg
By looking at the thread length of the Fumoto valve I can contest that it is definitely longer than the thickness of the oil pan and will extend through the oil drain hole.
 
Two Other Options Available...

By looking at the thread length of the Fumoto valve I can contest that it is definitely longer than the thickness of the oil pan and will extend through the oil drain hole.

If you're worried about the length of the valve threads, one could:

1.) Place another one or two additional washers on the valve (which would then shorten the amount of the threaded valve that was inside the pan)... but obviously lengthen the overall size of the valve.

2.) Place the correct threaded nut on the valve, cut the excess threads off, then back off the nut... which will realign the existing threads so you're able to install the valve.

I've often used #2 throughout the years when I had a longer threaded bolt where a shorter one was needed. Worked every time for me.

CX5T Lover
 
Given the concern for not getting all the oil out of the oil pan, I cut about 1.5 threads off the valve after doing my best to measure how deep the threaded part of the pan is. The brass is soft and I was able to clean it up using a small file. I'm looking forward to the next oil change as it should be easy.

Thanks to whoever suggested using plastic shopping bags around the oil filter. That worked great!
 

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Given the concern for not getting all the oil out of the oil pan, I cut about 1.5 threads off the valve after doing my best to measure how deep the threaded part of the pan is. The brass is soft and I was able to clean it up using a small file. I'm looking forward to the next oil change as it should be easy.

Thanks to whoever suggested using plastic shopping bags around the oil filter. That worked great!

Hi, what tool did you use to cut the thread?
 
Good Job...

"Blue Reflex" said in part...

I cut about 1.5 threads off the valve after doing my best to measure how deep the threaded part of the pan is.

Your finished job photo looks good. The only thing I would have done differently (not that there's anything wrong with what you did), was to ream out the inside hole so that it was more like the original.

As far as what you used? I love my "if it can't be done with a Dremel Tool, it can't be done" and would have used that.

Once again... Good Job!

CX5T Lover
 
I used a hack saw, then cleaned up the surface with the side of a grinder. Today I did the other one and did try to create the cone in the middle. I was only half successful. I think it is ready to go though. Waiting for my next oil change...
 
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