What have you done to your MSP today?

So I just found out about a 2004 300hp stock awd Volvo s60 turbo. That's crazyyy. I don't know much about volvos or the engines but cud this be a possible platform to build upon? Are the parts expensive?
 
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I have a V70 (awd / turbo) There are some great things about the car, but I've never had any desire to mod it. Its just a really good car, not really an interesting platform for a build. Volvos are nearly impossible to find in the USA with a manual trans, that will be your first issue as the slush box works great, but isn't much fun. The second issue is that there aren't many parts suppliers - but you have an msp so you're already familiar with that. IPD makes some quality go fast parts, check out their website and see what you might want to do.

The upside is that the t5 is really stout.

If you want to build something unique and that can make crazy awd power look for a B3 chassis Audi with the 20V 5 cylinder. The 7a is NA, but takes boost great, or if you can get your hands on an AAN 1000hp isn't out of reach. The Audi 20V turbo engines were the 2J before there was a 2J. Here are a few interesting Audi's from the era that are currently available:

http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=73009
http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=35721

And here's some inspiration:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDSOE1vNtqY - All go and no show sedan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ni-vnLNKkg - beautiful coupe quattro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQmKRVEriKs - gotta love that 5 cylinder warble
 
Thank you for your input. I like wrx's. But they're all $5000+ in Florida. I wud absolutely keep the msp as a daily (lightly DD modded) and maybe build the wrx, either a wrx or 300zx twin turbo. I get a feeling the twin turbos are gonna be worth a very pretty penny in the future. All the other twin turbos out there are: supra mk4, rx7 Fd, skyline, and BMW 335. Keep in mind I might be doing this years from now.
You forgot all of the high end and AMG Mercedes
 
To get back on track... 1574 keeps popping IC pipes, did it again yesterday. I can't push more than 7-8psi before they slip off, it has to be the oil in there from the turbo. I clean the oil out and it gets sprayed back into the couplers and slips them off under boost. Never had this problem with my other MSP, have no ****** clue why this one with less mileage and a far newer turbo is doing it. As much as I like these cars the constant frustration of this one finally has me shopping around for newer cars. Would still like to keep 1345 and build the motor for it as it has been so good to me, but 1574 has been a constant PITA since I bought it.
 
To get back on track... 1574 keeps popping IC pipes, did it again yesterday. I can't push more than 7-8psi before they slip off, it has to be the oil in there from the turbo. I clean the oil out and it gets sprayed back into the couplers and slips them off under boost. Never had this problem with my other MSP, have no ****** clue why this one with less mileage and a far newer turbo is doing it. As much as I like these cars the constant frustration of this one finally has me shopping around for newer cars. Would still like to keep 1345 and build the motor for it as it has been so good to me, but 1574 has been a constant PITA since I bought it.
Is it possible that the place/person you got the used turbo from, lied to you and maybe the turbo has more mileage than claimed or that the turbo bearings are completely done? That's the only thing I can think of. When your talking about vital components of a car I.e. turbo, motor, internals, things like that, I wudnt take short cuts and buy used stuff. I wud just buy them new so you won't have any issues with them. I know its a lot of money but its a sacrifice you must take especially at the current position your in. My new turbo chra cost $690 with shipping and my friend and I completed the job ourselves. It literally took a whole day but I def think its worth it. Up to you...
 
Is it possible that the place/person you got the used turbo from, lied to you and maybe the turbo has more mileage than claimed or that the turbo bearings are completely done? That's the only thing I can think of. When your talking about vital components of a car I.e. turbo, motor, internals, things like that, I wudnt take short cuts and buy used stuff. I wud just buy them new so you won't have any issues with them. I know its a lot of money but its a sacrifice you must take especially at the current position your in. My new turbo chra cost $690 with shipping and my friend and I completed the job ourselves. It literally took a whole day but I def think its worth it. Up to you...

Replacing the CHRA wasn't an option with my stock housing, all of the bolts would have snapped off. Tried removing just the two for the heat shield over the downpipe and they both broke. I bought the turbo from someone on this forum that claimed it has 45k miles and honestly I believe them, it is clean on the outside and it boosts normally. Like I said before if I was going to spend that much (paid 250 I believe) I would find a T28, just wanted the fastest, cheapest and quickest fix that would last. It's possible the oil in the piping may be from the last turbo.

Horns, do the pipes have a proper bead rolled on them?
No just regular cut piping but I have had the ebay kit on my other msp for 3-4 years without bead rolling the ends and that car has spiked 16+ without popping any couplers. After looking at it today I think the pipes themselves are under tension that is forcing them to slip out, it's always the same two pipes that slip. Also found a much better clamp today that clamps the pipe much tighter, old clamp was a good 2.5" T-bolt but this one can clamp tighter.

Have you tried the hairspray trick to try to keep the couplers from slipping off?

I could try that, I have never done it before but it's worth a shot. I think I'm going to undo a few couplers and adjust the piping to fit better, may solve the problem. Hopefully replacing the WG again will drop the boost and the turbo won't throw oil at 9psi.
 
Have you tried the hairspray trick to try to keep the couplers from slipping off?

I second this idea. I loved the hairspray when doing my FMIC. It works as a lubricant when putting them on and then a glue when it dries. Even without a T-bolt clamp, it was hard to pull the couplers off the pipe. I also second getting them bead rolled. I had that done as well and there was no chance they were going to pop off. Maybe new couplers too? I noticed the more I took them on and off the more stretched out they became.
 
I haven't had to do any of those things with my first MSP, I think adjusting the piping will solve it. May need to replace another clamp or two, couplers seem to be in good shape. If the oil hadn't been sprayed into the piping from the turbo I likely would not be having this problem.
 
I removed the Steedspeed yesterday to ship out today. Have the turbo on my bench ready to disassemble and rebuild it. My plan is to rebuild it, install another open differential transmission, remove the boost controller to run factory boost and likely sell the car. I'm either going to get another bike or use the money to fix all the minor, stupid issues with the Rx8 and add a couple of mods to it. Or I've also considered purchasing a used Greddy kit locally for the 8, but then I'll just go down another MSP type path of constantly breaking and rebuilding it, so there's that. I'll likely get a commuter bike, though. Who knows, because I clearly do not.
 
I removed the Steedspeed yesterday to ship out today. Have the turbo on my bench ready to disassemble and rebuild it. My plan is to rebuild it, install another open differential transmission, remove the boost controller to run factory boost and likely sell the car. I'm either going to get another bike or use the money to fix all the minor, stupid issues with the Rx8 and add a couple of mods to it. Or I've also considered purchasing a used Greddy kit locally for the 8, but then I'll just go down another MSP type path of constantly breaking and rebuilding it, so there's that. I'll likely get a commuter bike, though. Who knows, because I clearly do not.
[emoji17] Welp, you gotta do what you gotta do. Just sad to see another msp let go.
 
I removed the Steedspeed yesterday to ship out today. Have the turbo on my bench ready to disassemble and rebuild it. My plan is to rebuild it, install another open differential transmission, remove the boost controller to run factory boost and likely sell the car. I'm either going to get another bike or use the money to fix all the minor, stupid issues with the Rx8 and add a couple of mods to it. Or I've also considered purchasing a used Greddy kit locally for the 8, but then I'll just go down another MSP type path of constantly breaking and rebuilding it, so there's that. I'll likely get a commuter bike, though. Who knows, because I clearly do not.

miata is the answer
 
Ugh i need a new ac compressor. Damn clutch is grinding and trying to stall the engine at idle. Anyone know of a belt part number i could just run the powersteering pump with?
 
I'm thinking of taking my mazdaspeed with the body damage n/a for gas mileage because I may need a car for work to put a lot of miles on.
 
That's a good idea Zealous. It'll last a lot longer that way too. 200,000 miles + easy.
I had a 01 ES that I had put 200k on before it was totaled. Hwy mileage was 42-46 mpg.
I have the parts to do it. Regular manual transmission Protege ECU, stock Protege MBSP, full size aluminum radiator. I do need to know 1 thing can I use a regular protege headers to the stock MSP exhaust 😉. I will also need an SRI or pipe to go to the stock air box as it is shared with all Proteges.
Almost forgot the engine needs a rebuild but that can be achieved efficiently and inexpensively if I'm not forging the engine. The engine has 32k on it but it sat and was beat on.
 
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