I did it again!

A life update that affects car stuff.

We had found a house to move to that would get us a bunch, including a much larger 2-car garage and a ton of space in the parking pad (literally like 10-12 cars could fit), but running the financial costs of everything, including moving, the lease costs upfront, etc... I found that not only would I no longer be able to pay off the MSM, I wouldn't be able to get to at least 2 of the track events I plan to, I couldn't really do anything with the MSM in terms of my mod list, and couldn't get a 3rd car anyway. For other reasons too, we decided not to move this year.


And then I found a gated storage facility 2 miles away that is renting parking spots within the gated area for $17 a month. So the MSM is back on track for a number of mods and I'm back on track for getting a 3rd car.

The mod list has been shortened for now, down to:
- Upgrading the front pads to XP16s rather than a full big brake kit
- Buying RS3 tires for the track for use on the black RPF1s rather than a set of 6ULs
- Still the same radiator and fan pack upgrade
- Timing belt kit

Once the MSM is paid off, it's car payment is going to my car mod account every month, and that will start accumulating for the rest of my list.


For the 3rd car, which would be used mostly for commuting and longer trips, my options are currently, in order of how much they tug at my heart strings:
- 2009-2011 RX-8 (costly, but more warranty and reliability than any other option)
- 2005-2006 987 Boxster Base (the highest cost option, less reliability risks than a 986, the pull of "something new" is considerable)
- 2004-2008 RX-8 (cheaper RX-8, less or no warranty, not as reliable as the other)
- 2000-2004 986 Boxster S (about the same cost as a 2009+ RX-8, better mileage, but much bigger risks if something goes wrong)
- 2002-2003 Protege5 (cheapest, could pay cash for reasonably, only option that takes 87 octane, useful for utility reasons, something "normal" people can accept as a "commuter car")


So like always, who knows what I'll end up with... (lol)
 
Just ordered XP12 pads for the front to better handle the heat on track. Though I got to wondering if I've got too much pad bias with xp12 front and xp8 rear. 949Racing recommends same pad front and rear for ABS / EBD cars, staggered pads for cars without either.

Also placed an order with FM for a new crossflow radiator, spal fan pack, timing belt kit, and timing belt tool set.

Once that order is charged, I'll be ordering tires. Looks like it will be a set of 215/45/16 Kumho XS's for the black RPF1s.



And a Chrysler 300 took some paint off my fender this morning ... :/
 
Michale, have you ever considered using Cobalt Friction Pads? If you use MOCO, you will get a 15% discount and they are not massed produced. I use them on my MSP for HPDE's. Also, a group of us will be doing a PCA event @ Mid-Ohio on May3-4, as well onMOnday May 5th, with AutoInterests. Let me know if you are intersted.

Also, you might have too much brake as you suspect.....
 
215/45-16. That's some meat there! That's gonna be about the same height as my 16's. I think you'll like how they react.
 
Michale, have you ever considered using Cobalt Friction Pads? If you use MOCO, you will get a 15% discount and they are not massed produced. I use them on my MSP for HPDE's. Also, a group of us will be doing a PCA event @ Mid-Ohio on May3-4, as well onMOnday May 5th, with AutoInterests. Let me know if you are intersted.

Also, you might have too much brake as you suspect.....

Even with the discount, Cobalt seem to run a bit more than the Carbotech, and looking around, they have similar performance with just a different feel to them. The only other point of comparison is that Carbotech pad dust washes off easily, Cobalt dust that has been dampened has been described as "sufficient for shuttle re-entry". Not a huge point, but all else being equal, I'll stick with the Carbotechs. I like what I feel and how they perform.

XP8 is a bit low in the rear for XP12 front, but not an inherent problem for now. Bumping up to XP10 at some point for the rear. XP10 for the front isn't sufficient, as I was hitting brake fade the last time I was at the track after a few laps. XP12 bumps the max of the temp range by another 400F, which should be sufficient.

I'd enjoy a Mid Ohio track day quite a bit. Link for information and pricing? The distance to get there is the biggest challenge, but I DO want to run Mid Ohio at some point.

215/45-16. That's some meat there! That's gonna be about the same height as my 16's. I think you'll like how they react.

23.6" total diameter, about 0.7 total more than what I'm on now, so a slight diameter increase. The original goal was RS3s, but the only 15" RS3 size won't fit on my OEM wheels comfortably, and the only 16" size is 225/50, which is a full 2.1 inches taller than what I'm on, and can't fit under a lowered NA/NB, and will only fit with trouble with a stock ride height. So RS3s were out, and I started hunting for an alternative. The list quickly narrowed to Star Spec Z2, NT05, and the XS. Star Spec Z2 got dropped quickly because of complaints I found that they grease up and get slippery after a few laps on the track, having trouble dealing with heat management. More of an autocross tire. The NT05 and XS seem to have just about the same degree of heat management, both wanting more heat for grip, but holding up well at higher heat. Both are behind the RS3 in grip, but about comparable to each other. I ended up picking the XS since the NT05 doesn't come in a size that I could use on the 16" RPF1s, and I'd prefer to keep that as my track wheel set for now. In the end, 215/45 on a 7.5" wide wheel will beat 205/50 on a 6" wide wheel in just about every situation on track.

The XSs are also only $110 per tire, which is emminently reasonable.
 
Thanks.... I just might be joining you. We will see, but it's exceedingly tempting to make the drive out.
 
For the 3rd car, which would be used mostly for commuting and longer trips, my options are currently, in order of how much they tug at my heart strings:
- 2009-2011 RX-8 (costly, but more warranty and reliability than any other option)
- 2005-2006 987 Boxster Base (the highest cost option, less reliability risks than a 986, the pull of "something new" is considerable)
- 2004-2008 RX-8 (cheaper RX-8, less or no warranty, not as reliable as the other)
- 2000-2004 986 Boxster S (about the same cost as a 2009+ RX-8, better mileage, but much bigger risks if something goes wrong)
- 2002-2003 Protege5 (cheapest, could pay cash for reasonably, only option that takes 87 octane, useful for utility reasons, something "normal" people can accept as a "commuter car")
I've tossed around the idea of a late model RX-8 with as low miles as possible. The MS6 is getting some of that snow belt cancer and there's a few things that it needs that will add up quickly if I start going down the checklist. However, I think it would be safer for me to buy a reliable tow vehicle for the camper...so a CX5 or CX9 could be in my future instead...but I won't buy new...so I can save a few pennies for a toy car, maybe a Miata or FB or FC.
 
New rubber showed up yesterday. Will get mounted later this week. FM order is pending a few minor backorder items, should ship next week.
 
No MSM payoff this year. My bonus came in a lot lower than previous calculated, thanks to corporate budgeteers, and even if I sent what I did get to the loan, I'd have no cash pool for track events as well as no freed up cash flow to use. So paying off something else instead and socking away a couple grand for track fees throughout the year. Probably not going to get much modding done. I'll still be installing the radiator and fan upgrade (gets here tomorrow), timing belt, water pump, and engine seal replacement in the next few weeks. Likely nothing else till summer at best.
 
Crossflow, SPAL fans, timing belt replacement kit with all seals, and FM's timing belt tool set all arrived.

Just ordered:
- new brake rotors for the new pads
- larger torque wrench for the crank nose bolt
- oem water pump
- GoPro White edition with 150mph suction cup mount and tether
- new ebay intercooler, 27x5.5x2.5. This is 1.5" shorter than my current one, mostly for clearance and lesser radiator impact, as I don't think i really need the size i've got.

...and registered for NJMP Lightning April 5th and 6th, DE2.

I will be tearing everything apart this coming weekend and will be pulling the timing belt, water pump, all the front engine seals, the exhaust manifold, turbo, downpipe, front bumper, intercooler, and brakes. While the turbo is out, I'll be having an exhaust shop pull a broken wastegate-to-downpipe stud. Everything will then be re-assembled with the replacement seals or new parts as appropriate. I will also be pinning the track hood and relocating my MBC and Hydra signal lines.

I figure it will take me through the following weekend. Crossing my fingers that it will start warming up through that time, but I can't really delay any further.
 
Got halfway through my timing belt replacement today, over about 5 hours with 2 runs to the store and a few breaks.

Done so far:
- Put it on jacks
- Removed the wheels
- Removed the hood and hardtop
- Removed the front bumper, intercooler, downstream intake piping
- Drained oil and coolant
- Disconnected the sway bar brackets
- Removed the radiator and fans
- Disconnected the upper engine harness and pushed it back out of the way
- Removed the valve cover and front engine shields
- Removed belts, power steering pump, main pulley, water pump pulley, crank nose bolt, and timing belt sprocket
- Removed timing belt, cam gears, and water pump
- Replaced cam seals and water pump

I had my tablet taking a time lapse of the work for nearly all of that, one pic every 10 seconds, covering about 3.5 hours.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddVeKdroQvY

Some of the pics

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Well, timing belt finished, but fighting with getting the OEM turbo out. The lower rear manifold stud has a cross threaded nut or the stud is cross threaded into the block (dear god I hope not), and since it hasn't budged ever, I'm guessing it was done that way from the factory. Soaking it in PB Blaster hoping that whichever end is not cross threaded can just come free. Hopefully it's the nut and the stud will just back out so I can replace it. If it's the stud that is cross threaded, I have a significantly bigger problem.

I have ZERO desire to put this thing back in since I don't have an army of 1 inch tall mechanics to get all the impossibly placed bolts and nuts. The only reason I can think of to re-install it instead of ordering and installing an FM2 is the downtime waiting for the FM2 to get here. It's better designed, easier to install, more power, solves my downpipe problem, solves my intake problem, refreshes the turbo, more reliable....

Pulling the money together and ordering one. Already got the green light from the wife.
 
Man... you shouldn't have ever gotten rid of yours!

The exhaust mani on the FMII has a few tricky bolts at the bottom. I could get my hand in there to do the work, but it was a squeeze. If your arms are longer than mine, that'll likely help as I was stretching to get to one of them.
 
Yeah, but it's better than ALL of the bolts being tricky, like on the OEM turbo.

Agreed, my fit of insanity last year cost me a bit.
 
FM2 ordered. The lower radiator hose is back ordered, so there might be a delay in getting the kit. The iconel studs for the turbo/manifold connection are backordered until late April, so I had to drop them from the kit for now, since I can't wait that long. I'll have to pull the turbo later on to add those.

Other stuff to work on till it gets here.


That cross threaded nut came off last night, nothing broken.
 
I have the lower hose sitting in a box. Never used... but that doesn't really help since they won't ship without it
 
From a follow up call, apparently the turbo itself will show up about the same time as the hose, so yeah, it wouldn't help out much. The turbine is somewhat critical to the FM2.
 
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