Alignment question-Camber arms?

[steve333]

Tried a search but didn't come up with anything.
I'm bringing my 2013 Mazda 3i Sport Sedan to an independent shop to get an alignment. I want them to make the car less nervous and track straight without so many steering corrections.
I know they will be adjusting the toe but if they adjust the camber do they have to get new camber arms? If so, what should the cost be?
This is my first car with a IRS so I've never had an issue with a 4 wheel alignment. Thanks

 

[xMazdax]

The Mazda 3's suspension allows, rear camber and rear tow adjustments. Not alot but enough to get back in specs. You dont need camber arms. Camber arms come in to play when you start lowering and either want to add more or less camber. Take it to the shop and tell them you need an alignment. they will put it back to spec.

 

[steve333]

Thanks, good to know.
I remember going to this shop with my Cobalt after getting the car aligned at a Chevy dealer and the car rode like crap. They adjusted it enough (still within spec) that it stopped acting so nervous and twitchy on the freeway. I'm going back to the same shop.

 

[flash75]

"The Mazda 3's suspension allows, rear camber and rear tow adjustments."

Not true on a 2008. I suspect the 2013 is the same. My car is stock, and my rear suspension is within Mazda specs, but the LR has too much negative camber for proper tire wear.
It has almost a degree more negative camber than the RR, but it meets Mazda specs. I have had it in a very good alignment shop three times. There is no adjustment for rear
camber.

To adjust rear camber you need upper control arms with an adjuster. The LR arm isn't too difficult to change but the RR requires disconnecting some emissions parts and lowering
the cross-member to access the upper arm bolts.

I have the left adjustable arm installed and now it has less negative camber than the RR. However, if you go too far you will run out of toe adjustment.

Some adjustable lateral links may allow a little camber adjustment if you shorten the link and adjust the toe with the stock toe cam bolt.

There is an error in the rear toe-in instructions in the factory shop manual. Step 2 tells you to rotate the cam bolt in either direction to adjust the camber.
It should sat to adjust the toe-in.

There is a small chart below the step that correctly tells you which directions to turn the cam bolts to toe-in or out.

If you buy both upper arms and lateral links you are looking at a big expense if you pay someone to install the parts.

Steve333, Your camber may be OK, adjusting toe-in may be all you need. My car drives ok with the negative camber it
just causes tires to cup enough to make have rump-rump noise. Only takes about 3-4k miles to cup the tires. Rotating
the tire to the front just makes the noise worse.

Clifton

 

[steve333]

Would rotating the tires every 3,000 miles instead of the recommended 5,000 miles help?

 

[steve333]

Question about offset-the oem wheels on the Mazda 3 iSport are 6.5 " wide and the offset is .50mm
I put on wheels that are 7" wide and 40mm.
I haven't been happy with the ride and after reading up on it some say it doesn't matter, some say the wider rim (with 6.5" wide tires) may negatively affect ride comfort and some say we should try to stay as close to oem offset as possible, not more than 5mm difference.
Can anyone give an opinion on this? Thanks

Check this link:
http://www.4wheelparts.com/tire-wheel-package-guide/wheel-offset-backspacing.aspx

 

[flash75]

"Would rotating the tires every 3,000 miles instead of the recommended 5,000 miles help?"

I usually rotate at around 4000 miles. 3000 mile rotation may help. I make a 4500 mile trip once each
year and don't try to rotate tires until I complete the trip.

I don't know the answer to your wheel question. My wheels are the 3i 17 inch wheels that came with the car.

Clifton

 

[steve333]

"Would rotating the tires every 3,000 miles instead of the recommended 5,000 miles help?"

I usually rotate at around 4000 miles. 3000 mile rotation may help. I make a 4500 mile trip once each
year and don't try to rotate tires until I complete the trip.

I don't know the answer to your wheel question. My wheels are the 3i 17 inch wheels that came with the car.

Clifton

Thanks, I think I'll rotate them every 3,000 miles just in case

 

[steve333]

I got my alignment today and even before I asked about the wheel offset he marked on the receipt that he recommends stock tires and wheels. He then added Offset aftermarket wheels may cause future handling/ride problems.This guy has been in the business for 30 years.

So, I went back to the discount tire store and they are now ordering a wheel that more matches my oem size. The MB Wheels Twist-16x6.5 with an offset of .50mm versus 16x7 with an offset of .40mm that's on the car now. I did get charged a restocking fee of around $70. This is becoming an expensive lesson! I was kind of prodded to purchase before I felt I was ready because I was told the $100 off promotion only happens once a year. I now have ended up spending that $100 if not more making the changes.
The mechanic actually recommended sticking with the steelies but that ship has sailed since Discount took my steelies (though I still have the hubcaps) and he said they were gone.
Anyway, making the switch to the MB Wheels Twist is my only option and hopefully it will work out.

 

[xMazdax]

Honestly... I have 18x8 wheels (stock was 17x7) and im lowered and i have a great alignment. All my numbers are in the green and everything is great.

You would perfectly fine getting the first set of wheels you bought, if your alignment is correct, then your ride should be close to stock. It would be so minuscule you wouldn't even notice.

Now getting a wider tire/wheel combo, then your scrub radius becomes affected. Might experience more understeer (when driving hard) but for normal everyday driving it would be fine.

Example. I am 225/40 on a 18x8 +21. I have a great alignment and my normal driving isn't affected. I do notice i have more understeer, but i dont mind since i dont race my car.

 

[steve333]

It's pretty confusing because there is one side that says it's OK and another that says it's not.
I emailed Tire Rack out of curiosity and they said I could get a 16x7 wheel as long as the offset is no smaller than .45mm So, they agree with my mechanic.
However, I have asked the same question on a few boards and they all agree with you. Discount Tire also lists wheels with an offset as low as .38mm for my car so obviously they agree with you as well.
I wish I had gotten an alignment right after getting the car then I wouldn't be going through this switch stress but too late now, so I'm going to switch to those other wheels since it will ease my mind somewhat. The looks don't matter to me since both wheels are nice looking and it'll make my mechanic happy. Only issue is that the MB Wheels Twist weight 20 lbs, which is only 2 lbs less than the stock wheelies.
Tire wise my mechanic likes Yokohama, Michelin and Bridgestone, for some reason does not like Continental or Pirelli

 

[xMazdax]

Why do you need to make your mechanic happy...YOURE driving the car... that makes no sense to me. But I gave my .2.

 

[steve333]

Why do you need to make your mechanic happy...YOURE driving the car... that makes no sense to me. But I gave my .2.

Actually, he's trying to make ME happy
Basically using his years of experience to make sure I don't have issues down the road.
It could be a non issue but he put the fear of Zod in me