Starting tomorrow I am installing new intercooler pipes, couplings, cold air intake, Ark Design MFD-2 with the added oil temp and boost sensors, Double Din Headunit, ripping out the interior and installing sound deadner, and then the rest of the sound system. I will try and create a build log. I plan on cutting a slot into the dash for the Ark, probably where the ash tray is since I don't smoke. Its about to be a huge pain in the arse, but a lot of fun.
What have you done to your MSP today?
- Thread starter baconbitz
- Start date
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- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
K1 replacement rod is here. Waiting on bearings, 8an braided oil return lines and fittings, and engine harness. Going to pull the engine, disassemble, reassemble and reinstall this weekend. Trying to make a decision on what to do with the 8, too. Have Rotary Resurrection rebuild it or install a low-mileage 2007MY engine.
11B-33T
Grumpy Vet
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- MSP 2003.5, Laser Blue
Replaced the engine oil dipstick (old one's loop had broken off), rotated directional tires front-to-back, oil change using Mobil 1 synthetic & Wix filter #51365 (1st time for both) and rolled over 46k miles this weekend. She appears to be idling smoother and a bit quieter going with the Mobil 1 oil as I've always used regular dino 10-30w Castrol before...
protege3690
Member
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- 2003.5 MSP #290
46k ?!?!?! lol holy crap itS a baby still. my chassis mileage is at 124-5k ish already lol
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
I always used Mobil 1 in all my cars. These MSPs take 5W-30.
Ok, main shaft bearing and stuff are being taken care of, but before i make plans to reassemble the trans, wtf is this? the car drive just fine before i took it apart... is my lsd failing? if so, is the mfactory a direct drop inreplacement, or should i just get a factory lsd if needed?
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
I think that is just a part of the diff. I will try to dig up my stock diff and see for sure. The Mfactory requires a new ring gear or removal of the stock gear off of the stock diff, the OEM replacement from Mazda is about $500 and only needs new bearings to install.
Pretty much what the mazda tech said. Couldnt find any pics online though abd was worried. Ill get my trans shaft and flywheel bak from them tomorrow. Crappy tire phucked my new pilot bearing so i have to fet another one pressed in. Gonna be like $100 + by tr time i get it back =\
No time to b**** at crappy tire about it, need my car on the road.
No time to b**** at crappy tire about it, need my car on the road.
Front end of the car is wrapped. Now I'm attempting to wrap the wing. Side skirts will be done on Friday. Hoping I have enough material for the rear bumper, but I'm pretty sure I'll be short on material.
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- 1989 RX-7 GXL Blaze Red
get a lighter battery. That will make a bigger difference in weight.
I already have a 12lb battery. Need to lose more weight. I act like she is fat even though I right around 2,400lbs
With changing the seats out and removing the rears I should be pretty close to 2,300-2350.protege3690
Member
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- 2003.5 MSP #290
if youre keeping your stock LSD. get it welded while its out. reinforce that way so you dont have to worry about it breaking on you. unless youre making crazy power you can get it welded and not worry about it. i was always worried about mine splitting even at stock power levels since i knew mine had never been replaced and had the original LSD from factory that so many people broke.
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- 1989 RX-7 GXL Blaze Red
I already have a 12lb battery. Need to lose more weight. I act like she is fat even though I right around 2,400lbs
what about the cabin a/c condensor? carpet? headliner? trim? door panels? lexan windows all around?
protege3690
Member
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- 2003.5 MSP #290
what about the cabin a/c condensor? carpet? headliner? trim? door panels? lexan windows all around?
because race car? lol
There is no sign of damage to the case, rivots or ring gear. More worried that the clutch plates are worn leaving me basically with a open dif.
Ill have a mull about it. If i can afford an mfactory its peace of mind as the car is at 130000km. But. Dont really have $1000 to just dump.
Ill never make the kind of power to break it nor do i drive anyway close that could break it. Too many cops and too many idiot honda kids looking for a race.
Ill have a mull about it. If i can afford an mfactory its peace of mind as the car is at 130000km. But. Dont really have $1000 to just dump.
Ill never make the kind of power to break it nor do i drive anyway close that could break it. Too many cops and too many idiot honda kids looking for a race.
i got the mfactory and opted to remove the oem ring-gear myself and install on new diff.
now. im a machinist/welder with full shop and it still took me about 2-3 hours just to drill out all the RIVETS (not screw) on old diff. some of them would start to spin after i got the drill half way through so i had to tac-weld the rivet to the diff to get it to stay while drilling.
install was ez-pz
new bearings and everything. just make sure you heat em in an oil bath or oven or something (((if in oven they have to be suspended not laying on a cookie sheet)))
any more questions about it just ask.. theres also a really good trans breakdown how-to somewhere on here
now. im a machinist/welder with full shop and it still took me about 2-3 hours just to drill out all the RIVETS (not screw) on old diff. some of them would start to spin after i got the drill half way through so i had to tac-weld the rivet to the diff to get it to stay while drilling.
install was ez-pz
new bearings and everything. just make sure you heat em in an oil bath or oven or something (((if in oven they have to be suspended not laying on a cookie sheet)))
any more questions about it just ask.. theres also a really good trans breakdown how-to somewhere on here
That guide helped a lot with the teardown. would have cost me another $600 to get as far as i am now.
For now the car will just go back together with the new bearings and clutch. If i sense other problem ill look at getting some other new stuff. Its my daily and its been down for a week already. Only took 4 hrs to pull the trans this time so if i change my mind its no big deal.
If i were to get a new dif though in the future, id prob just buy a new ring gear. If it took you 3 hrs to pull it, id have to pay shop rates for that. Ring gear couldnt cost much more than an hour or two labour.
It actually only took an hour to totally strip the trans case. Now i have to find some way to flush the dif and case without destroying the seals.
For now the car will just go back together with the new bearings and clutch. If i sense other problem ill look at getting some other new stuff. Its my daily and its been down for a week already. Only took 4 hrs to pull the trans this time so if i change my mind its no big deal.
If i were to get a new dif though in the future, id prob just buy a new ring gear. If it took you 3 hrs to pull it, id have to pay shop rates for that. Ring gear couldnt cost much more than an hour or two labour.
It actually only took an hour to totally strip the trans case. Now i have to find some way to flush the dif and case without destroying the seals.
I already have a 12lb battery. Need to lose more weight. I act like she is fat even though I right around 2,400lbs
I'm curious how you managed to shave that much weight...
what about the cabin a/c condensor? carpet? headliner? trim? door panels? lexan windows all around?
I still can take out the condenser, but trim, panels, and windows need to stay in for SMF I'm pretty sure.
