What have you done to your Mazda5 today?

I spent a little time with the Five yesterday for really the first time since buying it in Jan. '12. Didn't do much, really - I located the central jacking points and rotated the tires, and cleaned the wheels while they were off, topped off the tires, swapped the fading dealer plate frame for an old metal plate frame I had laying around, and mounted a two-tone horn to the factory ground point next to the underhood fuse box. And tweaked the left front toe-in out slightly in hopes that'll fix the slight tire cupping I've been experiencing. It's nothing compared to what I've done on my older cars - rebuilding engines, installing aftermarket dual exhaust from manifolds to tailpipes (it's nice that four-bangers don't need duals!), swapping transmissions and valvebodies, etc. - but it was fun, and not too time consuming, and I kind of feel a bit more ownership for the vehicle somehow.
 
Front Sway Bar bushings replaced. Clunky noise that made the car sound cheap, now gone after this replacement. Picture shows the difference in design between the new one (left) and the old one (right). The new bushing feels a lot more rigid than the old one; which was very flimsy and soft and could be squeezed effortlessly with your fingers. I followed the DIY from this post. I feel much better about this car and now I'm zoom-zoomin again. (cabpatch)

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Are these just from the dealer? Is the part number different than the old? How do we make sure we get the new ones in case the dealer still has old in stock (that's assuming part numbers are the same). Thanks.
 
Are these just from the dealer? Is the part number different than the old? How do we make sure we get the new ones in case the dealer still has old in stock (that's assuming part numbers are the same). Thanks.


If you get it from the dealer, they should have the updated part numbers in their database. Here are the part #'s on the packaging:
>> CC29-34-156C (Front bushing)
>> C243-28-156D (Rear bushing)
 
New wheels!!!!

Well not yet. It all started like this.

Was driving home today and hit one big a#! muther f@#$#gn pothole. Damaged the RF tire, possibly tweaked the wheel and lower control arm a bit too. I didn't see any wheel damage on the rim but suspect it may have some excessive runout now based on the low speed shimmy. Steering wheel is a little off now also. Went to check it out and noticed the shock was leaking oil too.

So I ordered a set of Rota Torque, 17x7.5 in hyperblack, a set of Sumitomo HTR Ziii in a 225-45R17 and a set of Koni yellows. I already have a set of H&R springs but never installed them so I guess this is a good time to get on it. Hope to have the Koni's in by Friday so I can get the suspension done over the weekend. Wheels should be here next week. Will get photos when done.

I decided to go back down to a 17" to help reduce unsprung weight and rotational mass. Maybe an easy way to knock off a 1/10th in the quarter. I've actually had this particular Sumitomo tire before and was pretty pleased with it. Looking forward to carving some corners.
 
i just got some pictures of those Rota Torques and i can't wait to see those installed !
hope that big @$$ pothole didn't do more damage!
 
If you get it from the dealer, they should have the updated part numbers in their database. Here are the part #'s on the packaging:
>> CC29-34-156C (Front bushing)
>> C243-28-156D (Rear bushing)

Great, thanks much!
 
If you get it from the dealer, they should have the updated part numbers in their database. Here are the part #'s on the packaging:
>> CC29-34-156C (Front bushing)
>> C243-28-156D (Rear bushing)

I hate to do a little hi-jacking but if any of you are interested with upgrading your entire rear sway bar with the new way beefier bushings. I've got a 2012+ MZ5 rear sway bar complete with bushings, brackets and end links for sale. $40 plus shipping anywhere in the continental USA. This bar is a direct bolt on upgrade to the first generation MZ5. PayPal only please.
 
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To confirm, yes they are OEM Mazda re-designed FSB bushing. They are far more superior than the previous ones. (2thumbs)

That's great to know because I had my bushings replaced by the dealership about two months ago
 
I should have let you know the secret. Don't follow the Mazda3 install method. Leave the lower/rear engine mount attached. Instead remove the upper engine mount. Using a jack and wood block to support the motor from below, lower the engine and let it roll forward as far as you can without stretching any wires or hitting the radiator fan. That'll give you enough room to lift the stock manifold out of the engine compartment from the top. It's still a muther though.

That's how I did it to make room when replacing the clutch- loosen up engine mounts. That manifold comes out with a little muscle, but it comes out in one piece.

Got new to me MX5 wheels...


Love those! So lightweight! :)

mz5_mx5_wheels_crop.jpg
 
That's how I did it to make room when replacing the clutch- loosen up engine mounts. That manifold comes out with a little muscle, but it comes out in one piece.



Love those! So lightweight! :)

mz5_mx5_wheels_crop.jpg

Thanks from me! I can't remember who's the silver one is but when I saw his is when I fell in love with them. Amazing how light they are compared to stockers. I may be crazy but I really can tell a difference...ooh now if I could just get the wife to let me get some H&R's.
 

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