Salt and Rust. An issue with the Mazda 2?

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2012 Mazda 2 Touring
I have only had my car through one winter and have not experienced any rusting. Anyone in Europe maybe with some longer term experience notice any weak areas for our cars or is it pretty solid? I have had a few awesome cars over the years that died simply because of rust and would like to do anything I can to prevent rust on my 2.
 
I've been here in montreal, canada for the past 3months and I have seen any mz2 that shows any rust. I'm hoping u added the rust proof protection whn u purchased ur mazda. If u haven't it's not too late to add it for next winter
 
Honestly, I wasn't even aware that it was an option or else I would have. Is this something the dealer would have done or am I better off going after market at this point?
 
Check out this article:

http://www.foxbusiness.com/personal-finance/2012/03/16/five-costly-car-dealer-options-to-skip/

Rust-Proofing

Although new cars no longer need it and some automakers will void the factory corrosion-perforation warranty if the car is undercoated by a third-party, this hasn't stopped some dealerships from promoting undercoating as a dealer option, says Mike Quincy, auto content specialist at the Consumer Reports Auto Test Center in East Haddam, Conn.

"Cars leaving the factories today all have excellent rust-proofing," Quincy says.

"(Dealers) have an incentive to do it because there's a fair amount of markup they can get on these services," he says.

Dealer-applied undercoating can range from $200 to $1,200, depending on the car, the type of treatment package (basic or premium), and whether it includes an extra option, such as sound-deadening. Moreover, rust-proofing can be sold to the new car buyer as a separate dealer option or be included in a pricey bundle called an "environmental protection package" that also can include paint sealant and fabric protection.


Read more: http://www.foxbusiness.com/personal...tly-car-dealer-options-to-skip/#ixzz2VSuJDa6w
 
I personally went aftermarket for the rust inhibitor/proofing, didn't think the dealer option was worth the money.

I went with Krown because they get into little nooks/crannies as well as drill holes in certain panels to get the formula in problem areas. Cost is in around $100 a year.
 
Considering how horribly our Mazda 3 got rusted after just 7 years, I'm not taking any chances with our 2's. On the 3 the problem spots were the rear wheel arches, and inside the bottom of the doors (which eventually rusted the outside of the doors). I'm planning on buying a can of 3M Rust Fighter and spraying that inside the doors through the drain holes on the bottom.
 
After three winters I'm already starting to see surface rust on suspension components. I'm going to buy another car for this winter.
 
Considering how horribly our Mazda 3 got rusted after just 7 years, I'm not taking any chances with our 2's. On the 3 the problem spots were the rear wheel arches, and inside the bottom of the doors (which eventually rusted the outside of the doors). I'm planning on buying a can of 3M Rust Fighter and spraying that inside the doors through the drain holes on the bottom.

I have witnessed the rust issues with the previous gen 3. My wife's car is a 2012 3 and considering that the only thing that changed on the 3 was the body I am concerned for her car as well. I have 3 friends with Protege's and they have no rust issues. As far as suspension component rust, I accept that will be an inevitability and I am more concerned with body and chassis rust.
 
I have witnessed the rust issues with the previous gen 3. My wife's car is a 2012 3 and considering that the only thing that changed on the 3 was the body I am concerned for her car as well. I have 3 friends with Protege's and they have no rust issues. As far as suspension component rust, I accept that will be an inevitability and I am more concerned with body and chassis rust.

There are plenty of Proteges here in Minnesota that are rusting out, and I've also seen 1st gen Mazda 6's with rust problems too. And I'm with you, I'm not so concerned about surface rust on the suspension as I am with body panels. I've already hit up the underside of the car with a can of Plasti-Dip, along with the wheel wells, but I may also hit up the suspension components (control arms, subframe, etc.).
 
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