Lewis7789's 2003 Protege5 build thread
- Thread starter Lewis7789
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- aggressive auto culture
Solder, when done Improperly can cause abnormal resistance readings. Then again, crimped connections create just as much if not more resistance. Crimped connections are fine for stereo, hid installs or even fog light installs. You know the simple stuff. Anything else, solder solder solder! But remember, less is more and always use heatshrink. Tape will eventually become brittle and I've seen it make some gnarly shorts...
I've been using solder for my 2 gauge terminals. I strip the end of the cable, get the wires nice and toasty with a butane torch and get a good flow of solder all along the outside and tip of the wires and good flow into the wires. Then I heat up the closed end terminals and line the inside of those with solder too. Then I heat up the cable/solder end and the terminal/solder and slip it in. Then heat shrink over the terminal and wire. Nice good seal and I check continuity before installing. I can take pics but I'm sure you guys know what I mean.
As far as crimping vs soldering I was under the impression that solder was better since crimps can loosed or get pulled out. I tried to solder/heat shrink everything I can.
Oh good lawdy no. I'm still waiting for my tubing/couplers for my upper radiator hose so I can mount my water temp sensor. Then I'm going to wire loom everything and mount them in the cable clamps I got from Summit. All the wiring is just temporary for mock up and to check lengths. I'm pulling the motor and cleaning up all the wiring before the motor is in for good.
After working in car stereo for almost 5 years, I disagree 100%. There is so much vibration and temperature change in a car, that all crimped connections will fail eventually. That and they take up a bunch of space and look like ass. A properly soldered connection will last forever. +100 to heatshrink instead of tape where you can.
Also, skip the plastic split loom - that stuff will disintegrate over time. Get some Techflex and heatshrink all the ends. Looks WAY cleaner and is more durable (and comes in different colors, thicknesses, and even a split one). This seller on ebay has the best prices: http://www.ebay.com/sch/furryletters/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686
It will go bad if you make a cold solder joint and the flux doesn't properly flow over. Properly heat your wires before adding solder for a complete solder joint, heatshrink, loom, whatever. It's legit. Also, techflex is da shiiit. I use at least 100ft of techflex a week. I've wired and wrapped a 1,000hp Mustang engine swap with it
Resources:
Degree in Electronic Engineering
Degree in Computer Engineering
Resources:
Degree in Electronic Engineering
Degree in Computer Engineering
I like the way the Techflex looks but it doesn't really seal the wires from moisture and would be a b**** to work with if I have to add some wiring. The splits stuff is tempting but I still need to add heat shrink to the ends and sometimes I can't get it over a plug or connector. I'm sure I'm going to have to go back and add/delete wiring after the car fires up so I'm just going to stick with the standard plastic wire loom for the time being. Maybe next year I'll rewire everything. But I agree it looks great.
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- 1989 RX-7 GXL Blaze Red
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
That is all, thank you
I agree it looks best but I don't see why you guys have such a boner for it. Even if it doesn't look pretty I would still prefer to have the wiring completely sealed in wire loom and electrical tape. It will just look OEM which isn't a bad thing at all.
Nope, not bad at all Evan. Wire loom and electrical tape is just fine. Techflex stands decent temps, but so can your method, otherwise, cars wouldn't come from the factory like that. I know your are going for a oem look on this motor swap, and this would be an integral part of the look. You're fine.
Also, this is rubbish, the stuff I work with is made for ever changing wiring. It has a slit that allows wires to be put in or taken out. I can also cut the side of the channel to let wires out and create a new path. This stuff is so easy to work with
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bikingpro5
Member
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- 03 Protege5
Evan Pm me your address ill throw some tech in an envelope and you can try it. I have all kinds of sizes and left overs from when i redid all my wiring.
Not a great example sing the power outlet is so close to the wall molding. This TV is wired to a rolling PC cart. The TV has two connections. One connection is power which runs down the molding to the outlet, the other connection is a VGA which runs down the molding, and through the Techflex whip to the PC cart. The pc cart also has power that runs through the whip and to the outlet. Often times, the power will leave the whip a good 1-2' from the end, out the side through a slit I cut so it can run to an outlet and the rest of the cables and continue to their destination
I will take some better pictures when I get out in the field to show what I'm trying to explain
I will take some better pictures when I get out in the field to show what I'm trying to explain
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- 1989 RX-7 GXL Blaze Red
winning!
This will work just fine and don't let anyone else tell you otherwise. Sure it doesn't look as nice (who cares) but when properly wrapped and sealed the split loom will protect your wiring better than the "Tech flex" stuff. All the external wiring in my RX-7 is covered with plastic split loom, wrapped in high-temperature electrical tape and contained with heat shrink at the ends.
Also regarding the crimp v. solder argument it always seems people "know what's best." Both are equally effective if MADE CORRECTLY. Use the proper crimp terminals and crimp tool and the connection will hold up forever. For soldering, as it's been said, uniformly heat the wires to be connected and let the solder do the work then cover with the appropriate heat shrink. Some people like to cover the connection with dielectric grease before the heat shrink but it's probably overkill. I'll admit I've used both, individually and sometimes together, in the RX-7, internal and external, although I definitely prefer crimping. Weatherpak, Metripak, Deutsch, you name it; it's on my car. Soldering was reserved for very big (>8 AWG) and very small (<22 AWG) wires but all my critical signals (crank angle, ingition, etc.) are crimped.
Evan, don't forget to pm you paypal so I can pay you. Also, don't feel bullied into using this stuff. We aren't hating because you don't use it, we just want you to know it looks good and is very easy to use. Way easier than running electrical tape in circle forever.
They do make high quality marine grade crimps. Super awesome, super water proof. I would loom\tape everything for moisture purposes, and if you are unhappy with the looks, techflex it for coverage!
They do make high quality marine grade crimps. Super awesome, super water proof. I would loom\tape everything for moisture purposes, and if you are unhappy with the looks, techflex it for coverage!
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- 1989 RX-7 GXL Blaze Red
I bought three 10' sections of TechFlex in 1", 1/2" and 1/4", happy now!? Haha
I'll give it a try. And like Cam said, I can always use plastic loom and TechFlex over it to make it look purdy. Ps- your washer motors should go out in the morning. I forgot them this morning. $6 should cover the standard USPS flat rate box to email.
I'll give it a try. And like Cam said, I can always use plastic loom and TechFlex over it to make it look purdy. Ps- your washer motors should go out in the morning. I forgot them this morning. $6 should cover the standard USPS flat rate box to email.
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I used plenty of the TeckFlex stuff when I was doing AV work.
We'd use that stuff on just about any type of "snake" or "leash" from a mic breakout box (48 channels.....) to a 156-pin molex connector (both ends), to dressing up projectors, displays, and just about any sort of exposed wiring. when I get around to actually redoing the wiring in the P6 - I plan on using this also. Got it in all sorts of colors and sizes.
We'd use that stuff on just about any type of "snake" or "leash" from a mic breakout box (48 channels.....) to a 156-pin molex connector (both ends), to dressing up projectors, displays, and just about any sort of exposed wiring. when I get around to actually redoing the wiring in the P6 - I plan on using this also. Got it in all sorts of colors and sizes.
Oh my god, why are people so F-ing stupid!?
So I am signed in to my work eBay account and accidently ordered one 10' x 1" TechFlex line from the seller Circuit posted, furryletters. I sent him a message asking him to cancel that invoice and I accidently ordered it through my work account, not my personal account. Then I proceeded to buy three separate listings from him all signed under my personal account, Lewis7789. I bought three different sizes using three different item #'s and listings. Paid for them using PayPal. Boom. Done. The seller emails me back saying he will cancel all 4 orders and to re-order them. I politely reply, just please cancel the one order (which was not paid) using my work account and the other three orders unders my personal account are completely good to go and not affiliated with my work account at all. He replies "NO CANCEL ALL THE ITEMS AND START OVER". I reply, again, politely that there is no need to cancel the orders under Lewis7789, just the one under my work account. It's really quite simple. He replies;
"NO -- CANCEL ALL 3 origional transactions....when that is done..
reorder what you want...
I have already spent 30 minutes on the orders canceling them them....
I have over 50 orders to keep track of.....Please keep it simple..
BARRY"
WTF, moron!? Keep it simple? I was trying to until you cancelled ALL my orders!? Le sigh. I don't want to place my order now because this guys is a complete ******* idiot. But I will because hopefully we will spend the money on some schooling...
So I am signed in to my work eBay account and accidently ordered one 10' x 1" TechFlex line from the seller Circuit posted, furryletters. I sent him a message asking him to cancel that invoice and I accidently ordered it through my work account, not my personal account. Then I proceeded to buy three separate listings from him all signed under my personal account, Lewis7789. I bought three different sizes using three different item #'s and listings. Paid for them using PayPal. Boom. Done. The seller emails me back saying he will cancel all 4 orders and to re-order them. I politely reply, just please cancel the one order (which was not paid) using my work account and the other three orders unders my personal account are completely good to go and not affiliated with my work account at all. He replies "NO CANCEL ALL THE ITEMS AND START OVER". I reply, again, politely that there is no need to cancel the orders under Lewis7789, just the one under my work account. It's really quite simple. He replies;
"NO -- CANCEL ALL 3 origional transactions....when that is done..
reorder what you want...
I have already spent 30 minutes on the orders canceling them them....
I have over 50 orders to keep track of.....Please keep it simple..
BARRY"
WTF, moron!? Keep it simple? I was trying to until you cancelled ALL my orders!? Le sigh. I don't want to place my order now because this guys is a complete ******* idiot. But I will because hopefully we will spend the money on some schooling...
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