I still have to swap the front sway bar, fix the spot of rust on the passenger side tower, build the wiring harness and paint the bay. So it will be a while yet. I'm planning on getting some locking Areocatch clips like JT but want to make sure the motor clears the hood before I cut it up. Slow progress, but it's coming along.
Lewis7789's 2003 Protege5 build thread
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I thought you had them on your new CF too but wasn't sure. Did you get the locking ones as well? I saw my friend Marlon go some for his MSP so I'll probably be helping install them. They seem pretty straight but making a mistake is scaring the crap outta me. Measure 17 times, cut once. But JT's bay looks so good without the hood release and just the two studs for the mounting clamps. Plus this hood, while sexy as it is, isn't reinforced very well so at highway speeds it really wobbles around a lot and makes me nervous. I had a hood fly up on me in my CRX, scared my passenger so much he screamed like a girl. Haha
I got the locking ones and I also got the PasswordJDM flush plates. Install went okay, but the pins were at a bit of an angle. After my hood settles I want to drop it a little lower but the pins needed adjusting. I got out the drimmel and ovaled the mounting holes for the pin and moved them over. I too removed the center crash guard and hood latch. Much cleaner IMO, jut need to take the time to remove the cable. I'll do that when I reposition my fenders
Bought the whole set from PasswordJDM and got a discount on the flush plates by ordering together. Called on the phone to order, shipped the day I ordered and got it that week. Shipped from Cali to NC, I was impressed. The set comes with 4 keys for the lock and sweet templates for marking the hood
bikingpro5
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- 03 Protege5
Evan, if you follow the simple directions and use the templates and guides that comes with the latches the install is now a joke. when i did mine the first time i did not have the flush plates and all of the extra help. plus like anything its all about taking your time and doing properly, nothing too difficult about them, its just the first cut to make a big hole in the CF that scares most people i just used a die grinder and went slowly and made lots of expensive CF dust.
8
82735
Trend setter. He got to me too
Thanks Cam... you reminded me I need to pick up a set of these... my hood has been scaring me recently with its shaking. Wish it had as lovely of a clear coat on it as yours does though.
Lewis your new motor is gorgeous...*drool*
PrinceValorum
Member
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- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
What are you doing about the rust in the bay again, just get the scale off and POR15 it or cut it out and weld new in?
Shea, I found three dollar bills and a Ground Round receipt when I took out the center console to pull the fuel pump wiring. I was going to send you a pic and a PayPal refund of $3. haha.
Wes, I don't have a welder or 220v remember? I cleaned it well and Por15'ed it with about 4 coats yesterday and 2 coats of bed liner on the backside in the wheel well. I'll just bondo over it and wait until it comes back. Then in a year or so drive it to a shop to get repaired (cut out) correctly.
Wes, I don't have a welder or 220v remember? I cleaned it well and Por15'ed it with about 4 coats yesterday and 2 coats of bed liner on the backside in the wheel well. I'll just bondo over it and wait until it comes back. Then in a year or so drive it to a shop to get repaired (cut out) correctly.
PrinceValorum
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- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Lol'd. No, Evan, I didn't suddenly forget you didn't have a welder, but one of your friends has a 110v, or am I assuming too much with the whole friends thing?
I was just thinking it had to come from somewhere, but you got the wheel well lined, so hopefully that does the trick! Worst case, it shouldn't come back too quickly with the very limited amount of rain it will see.
That spot is about the size of a quarter. I mean, the car won't see the rain or winters so I don't see it getting bigger. But I don't really want to tow it to a shop I don't trust to get it cut out and replaced. I'll fix it right when I get a welder and my own garage next year. Josh, you're the only cat I would trust welding a new patch plate in so you should be glad I'm not asking you to fix it. lulz.
Got my Prosport oil pressure sending unit and sandwich plate gasket in today. And thanks to JT, got the correct Energy Suspension front sway bar bushing part number, just need to measure which size bracket I'll need, the smaller or larger. Probably the smaller. But gotta double check. I'm going to drop the front subframe tonight to get that old bar out. I don't know how this would be possible with the motor in. Haha
edit- Wes, I wouldn't feel comfortable asking one of you turkeys to haul all your welding gear to my house for a patch. Because it would take quite a while to cut out the old one, cut up a new one and stitch weld it in. Plus I can get to it easily later on with the motor still in. No worries.
Got my Prosport oil pressure sending unit and sandwich plate gasket in today. And thanks to JT, got the correct Energy Suspension front sway bar bushing part number, just need to measure which size bracket I'll need, the smaller or larger. Probably the smaller. But gotta double check. I'm going to drop the front subframe tonight to get that old bar out. I don't know how this would be possible with the motor in. Haha
edit- Wes, I wouldn't feel comfortable asking one of you turkeys to haul all your welding gear to my house for a patch. Because it would take quite a while to cut out the old one, cut up a new one and stitch weld it in. Plus I can get to it easily later on with the motor still in. No worries.
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So just when I clean up and paint the coilpack bracket and buy new hardware for it I go to mount it up and realize my spark plug wires are for the disty only. Damn it. Is there a way to cut and crimp the 626 coilpack plug ends on? I see there are universal spark plug wire kits.
Worse case scenario I just order some Bosche plug wires from Autozone and sell the PRD plug wires. But they are so blinging red.
Also, Fishy came over sunday and we dropped the front subframe a bit for the sway to come out. Super freaking easy. Waiting on the bushings from Amazon to hurry up and get here. I need to work on the wiring harnesseseseses.
Worse case scenario I just order some Bosche plug wires from Autozone and sell the PRD plug wires. But they are so blinging red.
Also, Fishy came over sunday and we dropped the front subframe a bit for the sway to come out. Super freaking easy. Waiting on the bushings from Amazon to hurry up and get here. I need to work on the wiring harnesseseseses.
You can technically "make" your own spark plug wires. You can buy new terminals and boots and even crimping tools ($$$). Most cheap crimping tools do have a spot for "ignition terminals" but I'm not sure how they work. Obviously the big name manufacturers (Magnecor, MSD, etc.) are going to say it's best not to try to make your own leads unless you have the correct tools ($$$). If you want to spend a little more money Magnecor can make you a custom set of wires (length, wire dia., boot style, etc.). This is the direction I plan on going for my RX-7, but then again I only need four wires...
Well I paid $70 used for the wires. And new Bosche wires for the 626 are $75 so it wouldn't be a huge loss. I'll talk to you tonight about the crimp tool and such, Phen. Thanks for the heads up, yO!
I'll probably replace the inner and out tie rods since everything is right there and they are 223k miles old. Going to order those next week.
Chris, sorry to disappoint, man. Haha. The wiring needs to get sorted before I can put the motor back in anyway. It will be a while.
Cam, I would love to live in a Fanta sea. Like Sponge Bob.
I'll probably replace the inner and out tie rods since everything is right there and they are 223k miles old. Going to order those next week.
Chris, sorry to disappoint, man. Haha. The wiring needs to get sorted before I can put the motor back in anyway. It will be a while.
Cam, I would love to live in a Fanta sea. Like Sponge Bob.
PrinceValorum
Member
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- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
I made my own for the Miata while I had it and it had coilpacks now that I think about it. It was kind of a pain, but heck, when you're saving $50, I think it's worth it. I got the 'universal v8' set, so now I have 5 extra wires for other things. Yes, 5, the fifth is the one that goes from the disty to wherever it goes in vehicles that have a setup like that, but I didn't need it for mine. The only "tools" I used were a knife, wire strippers (actually coax strippers), and needle nose pliers. At the time I really didn't think anything of the fact that I was using them for coilpacks (I didn't know there was a difference between the disty and coilpack wires), but the set I got worked out fine.
I even made a write up, not that it was really necessary, but pictures help!
http://mazda626.net/topic/37774-double-your-money-spark-plug-wires-56k-beware/
I'm sure there's a solution and I can just hack off the disty style plugs and crimp the coil pack style plugs on the other end. Plus it will take out some of the slack from the wires to relieve my OCD. Just another case of me posting something before doing my research first. Thanks for the link though, Wes.
ps- I think there is a member who might be interested in buying your MS PNP for his boosted KL P5.
ps- I think there is a member who might be interested in buying your MS PNP for his boosted KL P5.
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