626 mani or aftermarket? few other questions...

D

Dr0

Member
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03 Black Mica MSP
Ok my main question is...

Is the 626 manifold a good replacement for the factory one with butterflies
I'm asking bc I want the best performing replacement but I'm also always in to find the best bang for my buck.

If you got any replacement ideas other than the 626 plz send me a link!

Second I'm looking to find a boost gague, I want something accurate and attractive to the eyes lol. I also have no clue where to mount it(don't want to cut anything on the dash)

Any opinions on either questions would be greatly appreciated.
 
The best bang for your buck would be to delete the flappers in the stock manifold yourself which is labour intensive.

Middle of the road would be the 626 manifold.

And obviously the 505 manifold is the best performing and also the most expensive. All setups should yield similar results though.

505 Group Buy, VICS/VTCS Delete Info

Go for an Autometer boost gauge, they're reasonably priced and have a lot to choose from. There are several mounting options to choose from, a-pillar, DIN pocket, dash, cluster bezel to name a few.. it just depends where you like your gauges.
 
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I really like the 626 IM, it gives a noticeable power increase in the mid-high RPM range but I think you would probably see the same type of gains with the VTCS delete of the stock manifold. There was a dyno that showed a 24 HP increase with the 626 but I always called bulls*** on that, and I don't think anyone has dyno'd after deleting the butterflies.. but my guess is that the two are about the same (probably around 10-ish HP in reality). Maybe the 626 gives a little more since it also doesn't have VICS, but that's just pure speculation on my end.

However, one thing that I personally REALLY like about the 626 mani is that it opens up sooo much space and allows such easy access to the back of the block. I can reach the oil filter from the top for easy oil changes, access all the oil/coolant lines on the back in case s*** happens or I need to remove the electronic senders for my gauges, access the EGR nut on the bottom of the manifold to disconnect it for easier manifold removal, and pretty much anything else you can imagine that requires you to access the back of the block. With the design of the stock manifold, you can't get to anything. So it's not the biggest deal in the world, but for me it has come in handy so many times that I think the manifold was well worth it just due to how much it simplified a lot of other jobs (try installing the Canadian EGR valve with the stock manifold still on...).

And as far as gauges go, AutoMeters are very nice as the previous poster suggested. They're abundant, cheap, and reliable. Another good option is Prosport, I've had my fair share of them and they always treated me well, plus they look much better than Autometer. They have a nice red glow that perfectly matches the Protege interior at night, makes it fit in much better with the rest of the interior and doesn't draw too much attention.
 
Unless your really trying to squeeze power...just pull your stock one off and remove the butterflys and port it out.

(unless you litterally have a 626 sitting around or easily gettable)

The actual removal of butterflys and a decent port job (not fully ported) only took me about an hour.
 
As you stated, the pros outweigh the cons with the 626 manifold. Reaching the oil filter from under the car was a real pain for me. my arm wasn't meant to contort like that.
 
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Well I'm just asking bc I live close to an auto recycler and they have a decent amount of mazdas, I found a 626 manifold for 50 bucks... My only question is the year range is 2001-2003 for the right fitment correct?
 
2000-2002 are the years you want to look for, the pre-2000 ones are junk. If you decide to buy one, see if you can pick up the EGR tube while you're at it.. it's different than the Protege one. But if it's a 2000 626, the EGR won't bolt up to the Protege exhaust manifold.

So a 00-02 manifold, and 01-02 EGR tube is what you will need to make the conversion as painless as possible.
 
I'm also curious for re routing all my vacuum lines any one got ideas? Should I pick up a vacuum block and set it up in the brake booster line and reorganize?

And thanks a lot for the tip
 
Vacuum block would be best. Also, some 626 mainfolds have 1 set of butterfies... although i don't know if its vics or vtcs. The buterflies are close to the head flange. Other than that, its the same manifold, but it has 1 extra vacuum port. If you can get the egr pipe also, that will make things easier.
 
NO 626 manifold came with VICS, some will have VTCS which is what you just described.. at which point you're not really any better off than the stock manifold. Get one without the butterflies, they're not as easy to find but if you get the VTCS version it's a waste of time and money.

And get a vacuum block, they're pretty useful in general for obtaining vacuum sources for accessories (gauge, AFC, boost controller, etc.)
 
But you could remove the vtcs butterflies and bam u got a good ol holy grail 626 manifold
 
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Until someone on a stock motor/turbo makes more torque than me (at as low as an rpm) with an aftermarket IM I'm not sold on the 626, aftermaket, or removing the butterflys.
 
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241whp, 268lb./ft, @ 11psi, stock turbo @ 3300RPM

When 505zoom dyno'd his with way more mods, and a gt28rs he made 274lb./ft.

I may have the stock turbo/stock block torque record, but I'm too lazy to look into it.
 
Those are excellent numbers. Is that on a standalone?
 
Knox Joe said:
241whp, 268lb./ft, @ 11psi, stock turbo @ 3300RPM

When 505zoom dyno'd his with way more mods, and a gt28rs he made 274lb./ft.

I may have the stock turbo/stock block torque record, but I'm too lazy to look into it.
Click to expand...

nah pirana made 275 with the stock turbo and stock block, and way way way back in the day 505 was running 19psi(which is how his stocker blew and he bought his 28rs) on his stocker same with moeed,yahshoo,blkzmzm all those guys ran high boost on stock t25 (although most eventually sent them to nick to get rebuilt) ahh the good old days.
 
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