Jeff's MSP GTR Build
- Thread starter jeffmsp
- Start date
If I lived in Florida I would have kept the AC. Since I live in Canada its not a big deal to have no AC. The PS is a preference thing. I ditched it because I just dont like PS. Makes the steering too quick for me and doesnt have the same feedback as a non power setup. Only thing that is harder to do is recover from oversteer when you are kinda "drifiting" the car, but once you get used to it theres no problem. also just remember to get the car rolling a bit when steering in parking lots to reduce the effort required to steer. its not the same as steering a PS car with the car off because just having the pump and pressurized lines in the system makes it harder to move. its really not bad once you are used to it.
Last edited:
you're smart, driving w/o PS will make your arms like you've worked out in gym for many years , thats a good side effect in this case. Back when PS were new and most cars had no PS as standard drivers arms/forearms were gigantic compared to non-drivers .... you wondered why ... lol
Hows MS3 ?
Hows MS3 ?
i'm guessing this Q is directed to me?
if so, it runs, i guess..
99% stock minus a shifter plate and a K&N drop-in filter.
quick enough for me..for now...
i'm concentrating more on the protege.
Come up to Ottawa and you might change your mind; it's been so ridiculously humid in the last couple of weeks!!
Glad to hear the car is running well... looking forward to videos once the ITBs are in
ya it was pretty hot here felt like 40 with the humidity. but thats just another normal day if you live in the south lol
itbs are last on the install list. still got some other mods to get done first. been looking into new suspension lately but not too crazy about breaking the bank to go with something nice.
itbs are last on the install list. still got some other mods to get done first. been looking into new suspension lately but not too crazy about breaking the bank to go with something nice.
CR3 Motorsports
Member
YellowSpeed coilovers? =)
Looking good though man.
Looking good though man.
i was thinking ksport kontrol or tein basic. I have never heard of yellowspeed
but when I look on protegegarage they look pretty nice.
What I need to do i spend a few weeks reading about coil overs before I spend any money
I dont know enough to make an educated decision at this point and I really dont wana have
someone else set them up for me as I would rather figure it out for myself so this might take a while
but when I look on protegegarage they look pretty nice.
What I need to do i spend a few weeks reading about coil overs before I spend any money
I dont know enough to make an educated decision at this point and I really dont wana have
someone else set them up for me as I would rather figure it out for myself so this might take a while
ugly but functional license plate mounting should let more airflow through the lower grill for fmic and radiator. we need to have the plate up front in canada, on the dash is still a ticket. I know it looks retarded, but having it on the left/right looks even worse IMO
boost controller back online. 12psi on the T4oe turbo pulls nice for now. lots of top end power. still planning on higher boost eventually just taking things slow. still not the quickest car in the world, but from 100KMPH on it is much faster even at just 12psi on the 1.8 than any of my stock motor FSDE builds were(FSDET with pretty much all the bolt ons + meth injection and AFC for tuning, wrx 440s etc).
1st and 2nd arent too crazy, in fact comparing to some of my old FSDET videos I might even be slower with the new setup from a roll in 1st to ~100KMPH, but once you get into 3,4,5 this build pulls hard to redline in every gear with no sign of letting up.
launching the car is kind of strange, not much boost gets built in 1st gear due to the large turbo and if you bog the car on the launch it really doesnt pickup well at all. If you do a good hard launch the car hooks up good and puts you back in the seat pretty good.
still very happy with everything and the setup has been holding up great.
1st and 2nd arent too crazy, in fact comparing to some of my old FSDET videos I might even be slower with the new setup from a roll in 1st to ~100KMPH, but once you get into 3,4,5 this build pulls hard to redline in every gear with no sign of letting up.
launching the car is kind of strange, not much boost gets built in 1st gear due to the large turbo and if you bog the car on the launch it really doesnt pickup well at all. If you do a good hard launch the car hooks up good and puts you back in the seat pretty good.
still very happy with everything and the setup has been holding up great.
Last edited:
well I ran all my wiring for the the megasquirt and some relays to the passenger foot well but I could never get the stock kickplate to work properly so I decided to pick up some diamond plate floor mats. Solves the problem of the kick plate and the problem of my ruined floor mats/carpeting. Got them front and back used from another forum. Pretty happy with them so far and they are actually much lighter than oem floor mats.
CR3 Motorsports
Member
looking good!
been busy moving from custom mounts to a oem mazda setup.
3rd gen protege 1.6 oem passenger side mount swap.
3rd gen protege 2.0 FSDE OEM drivers side top trans mount setup. 2/5 bolts line up, the rest I need to thread the trans as the holes are there on the 91-96 escort gt transmission for the 3rd gen protege FSDE mount plate, but there is no thread to put bolts in as you can see in above pic.
big thanks to jinx on clubpro for coming up with the idea. his bp powered pro5 should be up and running soon which would bring the total to 3 bp swapped 3rd gens including myself getting DD that I know of. i have a big HOW-To coming soon for those interested in the swap.
3rd gen protege 1.6 oem passenger side mount swap.
3rd gen protege 2.0 FSDE OEM drivers side top trans mount setup. 2/5 bolts line up, the rest I need to thread the trans as the holes are there on the 91-96 escort gt transmission for the 3rd gen protege FSDE mount plate, but there is no thread to put bolts in as you can see in above pic.
big thanks to jinx on clubpro for coming up with the idea. his bp powered pro5 should be up and running soon which would bring the total to 3 bp swapped 3rd gens including myself getting DD that I know of. i have a big HOW-To coming soon for those interested in the swap.
Last edited:
well now im in a chicken and egg scenerio
The sounds I had been hearing from the drivetrain got progressively worse. Oddly enough most of the noise/vibration was coming from the front left.
I figured the axles were fubar from all the changes I have been making to the engine / trans mounts over the last few weeks.
So I parked the car and grudgingly went back to my Chevy Malibu for the DD.
I figured I would check things out from the ground up so I jacked up the car and began removing the control arms for inspection and when I went to loosen the ball joints free I found that the pinch pins on either side holding the balljoints were broken and just spinning freely (installed these just a few months ago, thinking the size MAY have possibly been off by like a 1 mm as they were not oem pinch pins or bolts whatever they are called and maybe that contributed to excessive play causing them to break).
Then I looked over at my front right wheel and noticed that it was on a crazy jdm slant. like the reverse of a typical hella flush crazy negative camber look. Upon further inspection the wheel bearing was holding together by a thread.
so the front right wheel bearing went.
So now I am here trying to think about what caused what to break.
I am over 240,000km and this was the original wheel bearing on that side (front went out at 100,000km oddly enough). So maybe nature is just playing its course and it simply wore out.
The good news is that once I removed the wheel nut the axle did not at all seemed overly stressed and could easily move in and out of the wheel assembly. From the look of the drivetrain from up top I was under the impression the axle was in a position that resulted in it being pushed into the wheel assembly too far do to the drivetrain positioning of the new mounts, but both axles seem to be in great shape and dont show any signs of worn out CVs which is great news for the oem mount setup.
I guess now I am just going to try and grab some oem ball joint push bolts/pin things and see if I can find an entire used wheel assembly locally to quicken the process. We will see how it turns out. Hoping the bad wheel bearing was throwing off the alignment and causing the noises I have been experiencing from the front left, but that seems a little too good to be true right now
The sounds I had been hearing from the drivetrain got progressively worse. Oddly enough most of the noise/vibration was coming from the front left.
I figured the axles were fubar from all the changes I have been making to the engine / trans mounts over the last few weeks.
So I parked the car and grudgingly went back to my Chevy Malibu for the DD.
I figured I would check things out from the ground up so I jacked up the car and began removing the control arms for inspection and when I went to loosen the ball joints free I found that the pinch pins on either side holding the balljoints were broken and just spinning freely (installed these just a few months ago, thinking the size MAY have possibly been off by like a 1 mm as they were not oem pinch pins or bolts whatever they are called and maybe that contributed to excessive play causing them to break).
Then I looked over at my front right wheel and noticed that it was on a crazy jdm slant. like the reverse of a typical hella flush crazy negative camber look. Upon further inspection the wheel bearing was holding together by a thread.
so the front right wheel bearing went.
So now I am here trying to think about what caused what to break.
I am over 240,000km and this was the original wheel bearing on that side (front went out at 100,000km oddly enough). So maybe nature is just playing its course and it simply wore out.
The good news is that once I removed the wheel nut the axle did not at all seemed overly stressed and could easily move in and out of the wheel assembly. From the look of the drivetrain from up top I was under the impression the axle was in a position that resulted in it being pushed into the wheel assembly too far do to the drivetrain positioning of the new mounts, but both axles seem to be in great shape and dont show any signs of worn out CVs which is great news for the oem mount setup.
I guess now I am just going to try and grab some oem ball joint push bolts/pin things and see if I can find an entire used wheel assembly locally to quicken the process. We will see how it turns out. Hoping the bad wheel bearing was throwing off the alignment and causing the noises I have been experiencing from the front left, but that seems a little too good to be true right now
Last edited:
New tie rod ends, new control arms, new wheel assembly, new strut tops mounts and the new bov its been a busy week.
Ya it is a knock off of a bosch design. I got it on ebay from a shop in st catherines. works great, does not leak and sounds just the way I like it
I was originally looking for a green spring to put in my forge BOV as the yellow spring I had was too stiff, but I was able to get this new valve shipped to my house for less than the cost of a forge bov spring lolplenty of pics are up. let me know if there is something specific you want to see.
not sure about filming any more videos. im a big advocate now for having fun @ a track. it was almost freezing temps this morning and I had frost on my windows so I dont think there will be much action at a track this season. here in ontario your car is crushed for street racing and 50 over gets your license cut in half with up to a $10,000 fine. I think im just gona stay with mostly pictures unless I goto a track day next year or hit the dyno. heck im getting ready to put the steelies with winter tires on. maybe ill post a vid of the launch control again and a few of it revving up or something.
but if you are wondering how quick it is, Big turbo on a strong motor + lightened MSP =
Last edited:
Heres the current mod list:
Engine modifications
1.8 BP Swap From 91 EGT
T3/T4 0.60/0.63 Turbocharger
GTX Exhaust Manifold
T4 Adaptor Plate
3" ID Downpipe
3" Exhaust
Stock MSP muffler
3" Ovalized Intake
2.5" Mandrel Bent Intercooler Piping
Front Mount Intercooler
VAF Deleted
Bosch Style BOV
RX-7 550cc Injectors
MSD Blaster2 Coil
Bosch Spark Plug Wires
Lex's PnP MegaSquirt ECU with 4 Bar MAP Sensor Launch Control and Flat Shift Add Ons
Blitz SBC-ID EBC
Innovate LC-1 Wideband o2
Down Pipe Wrapped
A/C Delete
P/S Delete
SS Oil Feed/Drain Lines
Protege5 Radiator Swap
Custom Coolant Hoses
Drivetrain Modifications
1.6 Bosch Passenger Side liquid filled mount
2.0FSDE drivers side top trans mount and plate modded to fit Escort GT trans bolt pattern
Modified 1st gen crossmember
Solid filled front and rear 1st gen lower trans mounts
Clutchmaster 6-Puck Clutch
Stock MSP shifter and linkage
Suspension Modifications
Front under car brace deleted
Brakes
OEM MazdaSpeed F + R with upgraded pads
Interior Modifications
Blitz SBC-ID EBC Controller
Replaced stock Mats with light diamond plate style mats
Steering wheel mounted tach
Stereo
Rear Subwoofer + tray deleted
Rear door speakers deleted
Exterior Modifications
JDM Famillia Badge
Wheels/Tires
Mazda3 GT Wheels for DD and Stock MSP Wheels currently awaiting track tires
Engine modifications
1.8 BP Swap From 91 EGT
T3/T4 0.60/0.63 Turbocharger
GTX Exhaust Manifold
T4 Adaptor Plate
3" ID Downpipe
3" Exhaust
Stock MSP muffler
3" Ovalized Intake
2.5" Mandrel Bent Intercooler Piping
Front Mount Intercooler
VAF Deleted
Bosch Style BOV
RX-7 550cc Injectors
MSD Blaster2 Coil
Bosch Spark Plug Wires
Lex's PnP MegaSquirt ECU with 4 Bar MAP Sensor Launch Control and Flat Shift Add Ons
Blitz SBC-ID EBC
Innovate LC-1 Wideband o2
Down Pipe Wrapped
A/C Delete
P/S Delete
SS Oil Feed/Drain Lines
Protege5 Radiator Swap
Custom Coolant Hoses
Drivetrain Modifications
1.6 Bosch Passenger Side liquid filled mount
2.0FSDE drivers side top trans mount and plate modded to fit Escort GT trans bolt pattern
Modified 1st gen crossmember
Solid filled front and rear 1st gen lower trans mounts
Clutchmaster 6-Puck Clutch
Stock MSP shifter and linkage
Suspension Modifications
Front under car brace deleted
Brakes
OEM MazdaSpeed F + R with upgraded pads
Interior Modifications
Blitz SBC-ID EBC Controller
Replaced stock Mats with light diamond plate style mats
Steering wheel mounted tach
Stereo
Rear Subwoofer + tray deleted
Rear door speakers deleted
Exterior Modifications
JDM Famillia Badge
Wheels/Tires
Mazda3 GT Wheels for DD and Stock MSP Wheels currently awaiting track tires
Last edited:
