http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yy9U5fUDvI
maybe this will make the op feel better.
-fast -cheap -reliable.. pick two
maybe this will make the op feel better.
-fast -cheap -reliable.. pick two
What is the Max HP that my Mazdaspeed can put out?
- Thread starter MSP09
- Start date
- :
- Banned For Being A Troll
The car has been in the road for two weeks, a total of 350km
I have brought the tune up to 15 psi
it's dirty fast, but I miss the violence and noise of my old build.
The GT28 was so loud when the WG cracked open. I guess it's just because I had that setup for 9 years and now I really do need to relearn when to expect power on the tach
It's also a bit physiological. The transmission is really loud and the noise it makes on the highway makes it sound like you are being hard on the motor (RPM)
But then you are doing 70MPH and 2500 RPM
Boost does not occur truly until 3500 so you need to drop to 3rd at 70MPH to get any sort of pull and can hold 3 all the way to 100MPH
The power delivery come quiet, the intake and exhaust are also totally new and very direct.
I have a f_ck_ng AWR oil pan issue. The thing leaks, I have had it off twice and sealed it twice, but it's warped. Effing garbage workmanship IMO. To think, something that coats that much, being unable to seal better or equal to OEM.
And I have the valve cover from Brian (Signature) that I need to install as well.
The goal is 400WHP and I would be suprised if its going to need more than 18 PSI on this setup
I will Dyno this year
I have brought the tune up to 15 psi
it's dirty fast, but I miss the violence and noise of my old build.
The GT28 was so loud when the WG cracked open. I guess it's just because I had that setup for 9 years and now I really do need to relearn when to expect power on the tach
It's also a bit physiological. The transmission is really loud and the noise it makes on the highway makes it sound like you are being hard on the motor (RPM)
But then you are doing 70MPH and 2500 RPM
Boost does not occur truly until 3500 so you need to drop to 3rd at 70MPH to get any sort of pull and can hold 3 all the way to 100MPH
The power delivery come quiet, the intake and exhaust are also totally new and very direct.
I have a f_ck_ng AWR oil pan issue. The thing leaks, I have had it off twice and sealed it twice, but it's warped. Effing garbage workmanship IMO. To think, something that coats that much, being unable to seal better or equal to OEM.
And I have the valve cover from Brian (Signature) that I need to install as well.
The goal is 400WHP and I would be suprised if its going to need more than 18 PSI on this setup
I will Dyno this year
- :
- 03.5 YLW MSP
Damn Brian, did you contact AWR about your pan issues?
- :
- Banned For Being A Troll
No
I have given up dealing with Tony. I'm sure he is a great guy but I have never been happy with any AWR part that was supposed to be bolt on. The end links needed to be modified. The 21mm needed extensive modification. I had a cam gear come apart and take out a CAM sensor.
I am going to get it milled level at work and get the tray done at the same time.
Once that is done I should be able to run a cork gasket. We will see how this goes.
The bad thing is that the entire car has to come apart to fix this stupid little issue
I need the trans off, to get the tray off.
EDIT: the mounts are good.
I have given up dealing with Tony. I'm sure he is a great guy but I have never been happy with any AWR part that was supposed to be bolt on. The end links needed to be modified. The 21mm needed extensive modification. I had a cam gear come apart and take out a CAM sensor.
I am going to get it milled level at work and get the tray done at the same time.
Once that is done I should be able to run a cork gasket. We will see how this goes.
The bad thing is that the entire car has to come apart to fix this stupid little issue
I need the trans off, to get the tray off.
EDIT: the mounts are good.
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
damn man that sucks. keep us updated. At least you can remove that motor and trans in your sleep almost.
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- Banned For Being A Troll
Engine and Trans Out requires about 54 Minutes.
The DP Comes Off
The Fuel Lines, Coolant Lines come Off
Wires get unpluged
One Driveshaft comes off
4 Engine Monuts Off
Done.
The DP Comes Off
The Fuel Lines, Coolant Lines come Off
Wires get unpluged
One Driveshaft comes off
4 Engine Monuts Off
Done.
tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
Y'all just took thread jacking to a whole new level 
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
Car is sold, he owns an SRT4 now. lol
Until we see what kind of solution Maxx has for his blown transmission(s), I don't think anyone can answer the question this thread asks. Maybe there is a market for an adapter kit for the MS3 tranny, but I don't know who would be capable of making it.
I personally don't really see the point though. Just waiting for that opportunity to dust a Corvette on an open highway while hoping nothing breaks and there isn't a cop or an SUV driver on her cell phone ready to end your day/life? Look at the 1/4 bragging rights thread, we have one car in the 12s, just barely. There are plenty of cars on the market that will crush that ET and trap straight from the factory floor.
While there are a handful of MSPs with dyno numbers that should outclass those times, there are too many other limiting factors. Transmissions are blowing on street tires, how do you expect them to hold on the drag slicks necessary to pull a 12 second ET?
I remember thinking many years ago it would be cool to have a car that was powerful enough to break traction at will. Turns out, it gets old really quick and you just end up buying stickier tires.
I personally don't really see the point though. Just waiting for that opportunity to dust a Corvette on an open highway while hoping nothing breaks and there isn't a cop or an SUV driver on her cell phone ready to end your day/life? Look at the 1/4 bragging rights thread, we have one car in the 12s, just barely. There are plenty of cars on the market that will crush that ET and trap straight from the factory floor.
While there are a handful of MSPs with dyno numbers that should outclass those times, there are too many other limiting factors. Transmissions are blowing on street tires, how do you expect them to hold on the drag slicks necessary to pull a 12 second ET?
I remember thinking many years ago it would be cool to have a car that was powerful enough to break traction at will. Turns out, it gets old really quick and you just end up buying stickier tires.
Sorry for the delayed response gentlemen, but I have been really busy with my military training and work. Well I have not got the protege back yet but I have uploaded the documentations of the work that has been done by Corksport. I am looking forward to all input. I also need help with tuning the Microtech, can anybody help? I have downloaded thet the software, Microtech said that its easy to use for a first time user. Should I try or have someone else do it? Thanks all.
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Thanks for actually posting those. Had to download them and rotate them to read them, but they look fairly legit.
He got pretty ***** as the motor build alone was around seven grand and that is excessively steep. Things like $372 for a new oil pan mid plate and $389 for an AWR oil pan seem excessive, as his original motor should have been fine for these parts. I see no reimbursement for the original block or any other parts as well.
They took 10 hours to install the microtech and another four to do a wideband drivability tune, so a grand in time there. Only $910 was charged for the engine build and install which is actually a little on the low side. There is no mention of removal, so maybe he brought them the car without an engine which brought that down a bit.
Completely not important, but he was only charged $249 for their downpipe. They charge $399 for that now. Maybe they gave him a discount since he was already spending over 14 grand.
There are definitely more efficient ways to spend your money. For instance, $422 for an extrude and hone is a little on the wreckless side, but I guess he said what's another four hundred at that point. The intercooler, intercooler piping and BOV aren't even part of the corksport bill.
Corksport looks to have charged him for an honest $1300 GT2871R, so I don't see how he could have managed to kill it unless it wasn't getting proper oil or coolant, which is very possible. I would be concerned about that with the Godspeed you have in there now.
I don't have any experience with a Microtech but since the car is already running that is a good place to start. Most tuning software is the same. You'll get a table with MAP pressure in one direction and RPM in the other and you'll fill in injector duty cycle or timing advance in the cells. You want to drive through the rev range at various throttle inputs and keep an eye on your AFRs and adjust the fuel accordingly, which I'd imagine the LT10 can log for you.
Once you have the AFRs where you want them, then you can start advancing timing. This I haven't messed with yet, but as with anything always make small changes and keep your ears open for knock.
Some software can get more complicated with accel enrichment, maf input, temperatures, etc. But most of the time simpler is better.
I recommend just getting familiar with the software, keep the boost as low as you can, and log as much info as you can before you start messing around with the tables. You really can't pay someone to tune your car for you, because cars like this aren't just set it and forget it. The tuner will miss some scenario, or you'll install some new mod, or the engine will simply change over time.
Good luck with whatever you decide. But if you do decide to sell it, I am sure there are a few people around here who wouldn't mind taking it off your hands.
He got pretty ***** as the motor build alone was around seven grand and that is excessively steep. Things like $372 for a new oil pan mid plate and $389 for an AWR oil pan seem excessive, as his original motor should have been fine for these parts. I see no reimbursement for the original block or any other parts as well.
They took 10 hours to install the microtech and another four to do a wideband drivability tune, so a grand in time there. Only $910 was charged for the engine build and install which is actually a little on the low side. There is no mention of removal, so maybe he brought them the car without an engine which brought that down a bit.
Completely not important, but he was only charged $249 for their downpipe. They charge $399 for that now. Maybe they gave him a discount since he was already spending over 14 grand.
There are definitely more efficient ways to spend your money. For instance, $422 for an extrude and hone is a little on the wreckless side, but I guess he said what's another four hundred at that point. The intercooler, intercooler piping and BOV aren't even part of the corksport bill.
Corksport looks to have charged him for an honest $1300 GT2871R, so I don't see how he could have managed to kill it unless it wasn't getting proper oil or coolant, which is very possible. I would be concerned about that with the Godspeed you have in there now.
I don't have any experience with a Microtech but since the car is already running that is a good place to start. Most tuning software is the same. You'll get a table with MAP pressure in one direction and RPM in the other and you'll fill in injector duty cycle or timing advance in the cells. You want to drive through the rev range at various throttle inputs and keep an eye on your AFRs and adjust the fuel accordingly, which I'd imagine the LT10 can log for you.
Once you have the AFRs where you want them, then you can start advancing timing. This I haven't messed with yet, but as with anything always make small changes and keep your ears open for knock.
Some software can get more complicated with accel enrichment, maf input, temperatures, etc. But most of the time simpler is better.
I recommend just getting familiar with the software, keep the boost as low as you can, and log as much info as you can before you start messing around with the tables. You really can't pay someone to tune your car for you, because cars like this aren't just set it and forget it. The tuner will miss some scenario, or you'll install some new mod, or the engine will simply change over time.
Good luck with whatever you decide. But if you do decide to sell it, I am sure there are a few people around here who wouldn't mind taking it off your hands.
2.0t03speed
Member
- :
- 08.5 CWP Speed 3
lol this right here is why im buying a prewired haltech with a extension harness lol.
- :
- Banned For Being A Troll
Holy Crap, What a s*** show...
No Core Returns...
The only thing there over 1G other than the turbo, was the head work...
Most of the build is solid as long as it was not abused and it was mainteined..
No Core Returns...
The only thing there over 1G other than the turbo, was the head work...
Most of the build is solid as long as it was not abused and it was mainteined..
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tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
Exactly why I'll never buy a modded car again. You never know everything that's been done to it untill you start working on it. Honestly it's hard to tell what all else has been done to that car
Well looks like this was a good and a bad thing form what I am reading. Thank you al for the help. The car is almost up and running, the shop that I have it at is working all the kinks out. The big issue that we are having right now is the alternator is not charging the battery. The wires seem a little wired the way that they are wired right now. What would be the reason that the alternator is not charging that battery? The connector has to wires and one of the wires has been spiled with a fuse that connects to the bolt on the alternator. I am really confused and I would like to get this fixed, becuase this is the only issue so far that is keeping me from driving the car. Thanks all.
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- Banned For Being A Troll
The stock alternator is controlled by the stock ECU
I needed to get a diferent alternator and controll it diferently because I no longer use the stock ECU.
Perhaps something line this was done to that car..
I needed to get a diferent alternator and controll it diferently because I no longer use the stock ECU.
Perhaps something line this was done to that car..
It sounds like Corksport did a parallel setup with the Microtech and the stock PCM, so I would think the PCM is still controlling it. However, spliced wires going to the alternator is a bad sign.
Can you get a picture of the wires going to the alternator? Maybe the previous owner tried running stand alone and gave up.
Can you get a picture of the wires going to the alternator? Maybe the previous owner tried running stand alone and gave up.
