Turbo maybe?

Yeah, it's gonna be a black box usually somewhere around the glove box passenger area. It should say PSC1 on the lid and have 7 differently colored wires coming out of it (and maybe 4 orange ones depending on what version AFC you have).
 
Okay I found it after tearing apart way too much of my car! Thanks nicholsspeed for the hint, sure enough it's under the cup holders. It does have the extra cable with the orange wires not going to anything, not sure what they are for.. So I have the program and I'll be digging out my old xp laptop. How do I proceed from here? Do I just plug it in while the car is off? On? Disconnect battery? I don't want to ruin anything on account of my ignorance!

Also, can I see the current map with the program and how it relates to the supermap? If there is a richness problem, it might explain why I only get 12-14 mpgs...
 
Oh and also how can I check to see if my injectors are stock because I don't want to run the wrong map if I've got other upgrades in the car I don't know about
 
You'll need to connect the cable from the AFC to your laptop, turn on the R4 software, turn the ignition On but don't crank the engine, click the connect button on the software, and that will power on the AFC and hopefully establish a connection with your laptop. If not, try different COM ports on the R4 software and make sure you have the right driver for the cable.

Then you'll go to Maps I think and Map B should be the Fuel map, Map A is for timing adjustments which the AFC doesn't do.
 
Also, what the heck is FMIC, and how do I know if I have it?

And another thing. My exhaust setup is far from stock. As far as I can tell I am missing a cat, and the other one is hollowed out I think because my exhaust stinks and is really loud. Will the supermap stock still be fine regardless of the exhaust situation?

Oh and as for psi.. I have no boost controller and no boost gauge, all I have is the DC turbo timer thing in my dash. How can I find out how much psi I am using?
 
FMIC is a front mount intercooler, and no you don't have one looking at your engine bay pics. You have the stock SMIC (side mount intercooler) setup but it appears to be upgraded from stock. And stinky exhaust is usually an indicator of a clogged exhaust, not so much of a gutted one (or at least that's what my previous experience shows).

The supermap is a good place to start, but it's rarely "the best" tuning solution, so you will most likely need to try some other maps or even tweak the current one yourself. A boost gauge and wideband O2 will be essential though, as that's the only way for you to tell how much you're boosting and what your air/fuel ratios are like at a given RPM/boost level.
 
If you do get your computer hooked up to the AFC, it will tell you boost/vac, since it's hooked up to a vac line.
 
Well I took my car in to the master technician in medford when I bought it because I was worried about the 12 mgs, and he said the cat was gutted. He seemed to think that if I reverted to the stock exhaust setup it would give me back my gas mileage, but I knew that wasn't true so I said no. That was his main concern about my gas mileage was my manifold and exhaust setup, but I thought it would be something else. And now that I am finding that the car hesitates to get up and go when it's warmed up, I think that both of these problems must be attributed to a bad tune of some sort...

Are boost gauges and widebands relatively simple to install?
 
it might explain why I only get 12-14 mpgs...

dam, thats horrible fuel economy, i beat the living piss out of mine, and get better mileage. yeah exhaust has nothing to do with it tho.

as far as gauges go, no, pretty easy.

simple mechanical boost gauge only has a vacuum/boost line and 2 wires for the backlight to hook up.

wideband usually has a "sender" box that you need to hook up to power. then the wideband o2 sensor and the gauge itself plug into the sender.
 
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So yeah I can still upload the supermap without buying the wideband and boost controller right? I just won't be able to see the numbers in action, and I won't be able to control my psi... I'm only assuming somebody who owned the car before must have messed with the mapping and made it run rich..
Also, do you guys think that a bad tune would be the reason it's getting such aweful mileage? The car literally smells like I'm driving a plane, I know that's partly because of the no cat exhaust, but I have to assume I have really high AFRs? Does the mapping with the R4 software work accordingly with how warmed up the car is? I thought it only regulated afr based off of rpms?? Because the colder the motor is, the wicked faster it is. But when it's warmed up, it hesitates when I stomp on it..
 
I had the afc installed before I got a wideband but I didn't start doing any tweaking until I got the wideband installed. The afc doesn't alter the stock fuel map until you go into boost depending on what the overpressure is set to. All of our cars will perform better on a cold motor although it definitely isn't recommended to run hard on a cold motor. Once the motor warms up and it starts to bog down is no surprise, most if not all will do that on a stock tune. You should get a wideband and see what your AFRs are when it starts hesitating.
 
So I was looking at the aem one on protegegarage, but that price is high..Or is that just pretty much what I'm looking at in general. I was also looking at the combo deal with the boost controller too...
 
The AEM is good, but that's simply how much widebands cost.. you gotta pay to play. Boost gauges can be had for less though, but if you can afford the combo then go for it.
 
So will both gauges fit in that gauge pod on protegegarage? I was thinking about gettin one of those
 
Oh and another thing that's been bugging me.. My silly DC turbotimer is measuring boost in hkpa? why do they even bother with that?! anyways I think i remember my max being something like .5 hkpa. Is that around 7 psi? Isn't that stock boost?
 
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