Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
The FS and all derivatives use solid lifters I believe, at least on protege's...which is what has been mentioned...
In either case, try to find an online parts manual or service manual (they are around, usually with a free pdf manual, or buy one but its pretty $$$)...Or i'll try to bring up the numbers tonight from my manual...almost any parts stores will have valve lifter shims in various diameters of different thicknesses, for pretty cheap...
You won't be bleeding or adjusting anything on a solid lifter...it has a fixed gap, and is moved by the use of shims under the tappet and above the valve springs...To check the clearence you use a feeler gauge under the cam lobes at specific intervals...
but I'm with some of the others...this doesn't sound like a clearance problem...If you are POSITIVE the belt/cams are timed correctly both with each other (both cams) and the crank...(this sounds exactly like what happens when its simply one tooth off, which is ridiculously easy to miss no matter how many times you do it)...then its most likely something other than valve clearance...clearance problems usually cause lots of noise, and oiling problems (burning way more than normal)...yet still don't screw up idle all that much unless its beyond bad...it usually causes problems independent of operating temperature also...
I should clarify though...Are you sure you bolted the cams in properly?...used the exact bearing caps where they were before, torqued them exactly how they needed to be, and did them in the specific order required, all before you attempted to time everything?...you WILL get idle problems if they aren't installed properly...a lot of guys try to wrap the timing belt on the cam pulleys before torquing down the shafts as it is easier to pull the belt over them with them moving around (and not using the pain in the ass tensioner)...but this always ends badly, and can create problems which you are talking about...when you say you had a 'mechanic double check it'...did he pull the valve cover back off, and remove all the plastic guides and crank pulley + belts to make sure it was sync'd with the crank too?...or was he there when you did it or something?
I've had these cams for 100,000 miles installed...with zero idle problems...and no mentionable clearance problems...they definitely are mild dude...I'm guessing its related to the installation and/or timing rather than clearance issues...unless you ran the engine on extreme low oil or burned up an old cam some how...
In either case, try to find an online parts manual or service manual (they are around, usually with a free pdf manual, or buy one but its pretty $$$)...Or i'll try to bring up the numbers tonight from my manual...almost any parts stores will have valve lifter shims in various diameters of different thicknesses, for pretty cheap...
You won't be bleeding or adjusting anything on a solid lifter...it has a fixed gap, and is moved by the use of shims under the tappet and above the valve springs...To check the clearence you use a feeler gauge under the cam lobes at specific intervals...
but I'm with some of the others...this doesn't sound like a clearance problem...If you are POSITIVE the belt/cams are timed correctly both with each other (both cams) and the crank...(this sounds exactly like what happens when its simply one tooth off, which is ridiculously easy to miss no matter how many times you do it)...then its most likely something other than valve clearance...clearance problems usually cause lots of noise, and oiling problems (burning way more than normal)...yet still don't screw up idle all that much unless its beyond bad...it usually causes problems independent of operating temperature also...
I should clarify though...Are you sure you bolted the cams in properly?...used the exact bearing caps where they were before, torqued them exactly how they needed to be, and did them in the specific order required, all before you attempted to time everything?...you WILL get idle problems if they aren't installed properly...a lot of guys try to wrap the timing belt on the cam pulleys before torquing down the shafts as it is easier to pull the belt over them with them moving around (and not using the pain in the ass tensioner)...but this always ends badly, and can create problems which you are talking about...when you say you had a 'mechanic double check it'...did he pull the valve cover back off, and remove all the plastic guides and crank pulley + belts to make sure it was sync'd with the crank too?...or was he there when you did it or something?
I've had these cams for 100,000 miles installed...with zero idle problems...and no mentionable clearance problems...they definitely are mild dude...I'm guessing its related to the installation and/or timing rather than clearance issues...unless you ran the engine on extreme low oil or burned up an old cam some how...
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