What size subs and amp? Good speakers and amp for doors make one huge difference....unless ya go for components up front get a good set of 3 or 4 ways and then 2 ways in the back.....don't skimp on amp....get the highest db/house you can get
What have you done to your P5 today?
- Thread starter Tg5
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What size subs and amp? Good speakers and amp for doors make one huge difference....unless ya go for components up front get a good set of 3 or 4 ways and then 2 ways in the back.....don't skimp on amp....get the highest db/house you can get
No they aren't.....not the greatest but not worthless....i have a 1.5fd and without it my lights are disco....i have 2 Kenwood 12s and a Sony mono 1200watts at 2ohm
I'm adding the cap for the subs only as now with the way things are set, the interior lights dim when i have the radio on and the turn signals. radio off, no strobe light effect at all. i dont need another battery or stronger alternator for that. now if i were to do some crazy sound stuff, then yes i would go with a stronger alt and add another dry cell like my yellow top for just the radio.
my subs are about 9 yr old RF P1 10s running off of an 800w 2 ch amp bridged connection to the actual speakers. my fronts will be components, and i dont replace with anything less than 3 way for rear speakers. though for an amp, im thinking a decent 2-300w 4ch amp should do the job nicely for that.
though I'm used to the sound of my subs and thinking of getting rid of them since one has a hole in it (still works though) and was thinking of just getting 1 memphis 12 or something similar. i will miss the punch of the 10s, so i may just keep them and switch from sealed to a ported box.
^ This. I'm not getting into this debate because nobody ever wins, but it's a proven fact that a cap is useless. It takes longer to recharge than a second battery would. Many other reasons, but this is the most important.
bikingpro5
Member
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- 03 Protege5
agree they are a band-aid solution to an easily fixed problem. I've had many high wattage systems in my car and we tested a cap once for a shop to see if it would make a difference in the car, with my currant gear at the time. We monitored the electrical in the car and never noticed a difference after one was installed, upgraded wiring and better batteries are a much better solution.
with that said i finally installed a temp stereo solution in the car until my new gear arrives.. was tired of driving around listening to the car noises..
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CheeseHelmet
Member
Since the audio nerds are around, what do you guys think about https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) type of systems? I'd like to add a small sub to the stock stereo and this seems to be the simplest way to do it.
Small sub, yes. Reviews on Amazon seem good, I would check out the Crutchfield reviews as well. I have a feeling it will leave much to be desired since it is so low power, and for about twice as much as that will cost, you can piece together a better system with a lo-pro sub and amp.
CheeseHelmet
Member
The crutchfield reviews seem decent apart from the reliability issues...
The thing is, I'm not looking for something that'll pound very hard, I just want something that'll help fill in the bottom end. I looked at buying components separately and surprisingly it comes out cheaper. I know you'd probably say this stuff is all crap, but this is what I'm considering: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned), https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned), https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
And to remain on topic, I painted my sway bar today. Tomorrow I'll order the new bushings and mounting hardware from Mazda (any idea how to say sway bar in French?
)YELLOWMAZDAPR5
Member
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- 2002 MAZDA, PROTEGE 5 Turbo
IMAG0478 by screwston11, on Flickr
Cut out front fender guards, and shaved rear wheel wells. Lowered rear, half inch.
haha, you guys think im turning my car into a competitor for sound comps? eff that, this is the baby mover, i just think that the stock speakers are on the way out and if i get components for the fronts (which i feel HAVE to be amped) why not just make it a 4ch amp and do the rears as well? I'm not looking for crazy over the top audio... that's going to be for future vehicles.
Why don't you just get a small 100watt powered sub then? That's what I bought from my buddy (an Infinty 100watt sub enclosure in the rear) and it sounds great and just fills in the low end. I'm not into hip-hop or rap and didn't want anything that "bumps", I just wanted to fill in the lower frequencies of the sound spectrum. Best $100 I've spent for the audio system.
But I never understood spending so much money on huge stereos in a car. The acoustic qualitys of a small, metal cabin are not ideal for acoustics. That's what the living room and recording studio is for. heh-heh. But to each their own.
But I never understood spending so much money on huge stereos in a car. The acoustic qualitys of a small, metal cabin are not ideal for acoustics. That's what the living room and recording studio is for. heh-heh. But to each their own.
I haven't had any experience with Infinity subs, but it looks like a good deal. Pyramid = junk. I have used Sony (about 7 yrs ago) and they seemed to hold up, and that will probably be better on your wallet. I personally build all of my own boxes, but if that is in spec with the sub, go for it.
CheeseHelmet
Member
Why don't you just get a small 100watt powered sub then? That's what I bought from my buddy (an Infinty 100watt sub enclosure in the rear) and it sounds great and just fills in the low end. I'm not into hip-hop or rap and didn't want anything that "bumps", I just wanted to fill in the lower frequencies of the sound spectrum. Best $100 I've spent for the audio system.
But I never understood spending so much money on huge stereos in a car. The acoustic qualitys of a small, metal cabin are not ideal for acoustics. That's what the living room and recording studio is for. heh-heh. But to each their own.
Hah, I looked through your thread and found a pic of the one you have (second pic), I'm pretty sure it's the one I was looking at (this). When you're on the highway with the radio at a reasonable volume, how's the bass?
Cool. I'd build my own box too (so it fits better) but it would probably cost more in materials than that box I found on amazon. I know that Pyramid amp won't be amazing but I figure if I'm not going to push it hard it might not sound like crap/catch fire.
Honestly, I think it still sounds great. I've got an Alpine head unit and have the bass turned up to 7/15 and the amp is turned up about 3/4. But again, I wasn't looking for a big huge box I can rattle my license plate frame with, just something to fill out the musical spectrum. I'm a bassist, so I need a little more low end in my music since that's my favorite. And my exhaust was crazy loud so when I would turn it up it wouldn't distort much and still sounded great. Nice and warm. Of course, if you crank everything up it would crap out a bit. And I used to have it just screwed into my rear mats but since that pic I moved it to the passenger side and have bolted it to the rear metal and it really tightened up the bass response. And it's the same one in the link your provided. And it's got 200watts apparently.
But it's all about what you're looking for in a sub. Obviously it's not going to "kick" but I was very surprised with it's output. I'd reccomend it for sure.
But it's all about what you're looking for in a sub. Obviously it's not going to "kick" but I was very surprised with it's output. I'd reccomend it for sure.
CheeseHelmet
Member
Damn, both options are rather tempting now. I'm gunna take some time to think about this (and wait for my next paycheck ).
).CheeseHelmet
Member
So I did a bit more searching and came across https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned), it looks like a much better product. It doesn't have speaker-level inputs BUT in the user manual they actually list the line-level input impedance (20K Ohms) so I should be able to simply plug the speaker-level inputs into the line-level inputs with a 20K-100K Ohm resistor in series (I have the math to back this if you're curious
).I've never heard of the company but their documentation inspires confidence, they actually list RMS values instead of the typical "10000000W SUPER AMP" product descriptions that you see everywhere else.
95blkprobe
Member
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- 95 Blk Probe/ 02 Blk Mica P5
installed a working tranny this morning. considering changing the p5 back to stock
canadian357
Member
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- 2003 Protege5, 1987 Honda Accord Type-R(rice)
If you're looking at Pyramid, I would say go Power Acoustik. When it comes down to it, people can argue about audio for years and never reach a conclusion. By the sounds of what you're looking for, yeah, the basslink would be great. Small system, 200 watts isn't bad by any means, and Infinity makes decent subs. Their amps aren't great by any means (my power acoustik amp held up better than my Infinity) but I've heard great things about the Basslink system.
To justify Power Acoustik - I've used a ton of different brands, from Alpine to Clarion to Sony to Pioneer to Focal to JL to Legacy and Pyramid (I know, I know) and I found they were some of the best in terms of quality and reliability for budget-friendly bass solutions. Keep in mind I said bass - I would invest in a good class A/B amp for speakers. My biggest complaint with PA is that everything they make is so damned ugly, but thats why it goes under the seat.
As for me, today I pulled wire for speakers and an extra 12v and ground should I choose to run door pocket LEDs. Which I will, in all likelihood. Everyone needs a little bit of rice
Not as big of a job as I thought. Although the front passenger door was definitely tricky. Some long needlenose pliers come in handy for sure, as do a coat hanger and/or fishtape.
To justify Power Acoustik - I've used a ton of different brands, from Alpine to Clarion to Sony to Pioneer to Focal to JL to Legacy and Pyramid (I know, I know) and I found they were some of the best in terms of quality and reliability for budget-friendly bass solutions. Keep in mind I said bass - I would invest in a good class A/B amp for speakers. My biggest complaint with PA is that everything they make is so damned ugly, but thats why it goes under the seat.
As for me, today I pulled wire for speakers and an extra 12v and ground should I choose to run door pocket LEDs. Which I will, in all likelihood. Everyone needs a little bit of rice
Not as big of a job as I thought. Although the front passenger door was definitely tricky. Some long needlenose pliers come in handy for sure, as do a coat hanger and/or fishtape.Nope. You can't. You haven't even fully broken it in yet.
