magnumP5's RX-7 Build Thread

[Signal 2]

.... I'm already dreading the reinstall and getting the transmission to line up. One step at a time...

Premature I know....but if you didn't get one with the hoist, a leveler makes getting the engine back in ALOT easier. Just raise up the front of the transmission and then match the angle of the input shaft with the e-shaft. Obviously it's alot less work with two people as one can go underneath and call out the needed angle adjustments. I've helped pull and reinstall a half-dozen or more FD engines this way. It's kinda scary how good you can get at it with a little practice.

 

[magnumP5]

Premature I know....but if you didn't get one with the hoist, a leveler makes getting the engine back in ALOT easier. Just raise up the front of the transmission and then match the angle of the input shaft with the e-shaft. Obviously it's alot less work with two people as one can go underneath and call out the needed angle adjustments. I've helped pull and reinstall a half-dozen or more FD engines this way. It's kinda scary how good you can get at it with a little practice.

I don't have a leveler and you'll notice I used 1/2" nylon rope to pull the engine (that stuff is amazing). I did see one at Harbor Freight so I may just go pick one up when it's install time; I'd just need to figure out the attachment points.

Started ordering (more) tools for the teardown today. Engine adaptor for the stand, flywheel removal tools (stopper and 2-1/8" socket) and pilot bearing removal stuff. I haven't even started the rebuild and I'm already up to $500 in tools alone!

 

[Signal 2]

FWIW a few years ago I bought the actually MAZDA SST to pull pilot bearings. Assuming the FC is like the FD, I'm almost positive this will work http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html and is way cheaper.
I made my own FW stopper. Big bar, drill a couple of holes and have a friend stand on the short-block while you go after that front hub bolt with the biggest breaker-bar and cheater you can find.

When it comes down to it, it's not about having exactly the right tools, it's about having friends and the right kind of beer.

 

[PrinceValorum]

I don't have a leveler; I'd just need to figure out the attachment points.

I think Evan said he got this one at Summit for 40$, and it's worked great for both his and Kevin's motors. The attachment points are easy, for the loops on the engine, just do what we did here. Put the "L" brackets back to back and sandwiched the loop between them, and then put the bolt through and tightened a nut on it.

 

[magnumP5]

^^^ Definitely need a leveler now!

So with the engine out and teardown on hold until parts arrive my thoughts turn to P/S and A/C; mainly getting them the hell out of my engine bay!

1) P/S - Drain pump, remove lines, remove cooling loop, cap plugs in steering rack, right? Well the procedure is right but I don't think I'm going to like the results. I'm concerned about the "feel" of the steering. How will everything work with the remaining fluid just sloshing around in there. There are a couple options I know one. The first and easiest is to locate a manual rack and reinstall. Downsides are it will require yet another alignment and the manual racks are "slower" (more steering wheel rotation require to turn the wheels). The second is a pretty involved overhaul of the current rack, which involves tearing it apart and essentially removing everything that makes it a power steering rack, then greasing everything up and putting it back together again. The downside here is I have no idea how to do it. I have a writeup that used to contain pictures but those are long gone...

2) A/C - Here's the fun. Now to know "how to" drain the system but even though the car is going to be a catless polluting monstrosity when I'm done I don't like the idea of venting refrigerant (I don't know if it's R12 or R134a) into the atmosphere. I know you can usually take the car to a shop and they'll drain it for you. You can see where I'm going with this... Does anyone offer a "kit" to purge the A/C system? Once the refrigerant is removed it should be a pretty straightforward job of removing the condensor, resevoir, lines and pump and then capping off the pipes that lead into the cabin. I intend to keep everything just in case I decide I cannot live without A/C and want to reinstall it.

In other news I've learned the 4-port engines can be run by the 6-port ECU's - yay! I don't know if I'm going to go down that route or just start stockpiling everything I need for the big build. May also be selling the stock seats so I'll need to find replacements in the future...

 

[o0n8]

there might be a mobile service that comes too you to do any purging or recharging. They have them here and seem to be a hit.

 

[PrinceValorum]

2) A/C - Here's the fun. Now to know "how to" drain the system but even though the car is going to be a catless polluting monstrosity when I'm done I don't like the idea of venting refrigerant (I don't know if it's R12 or R134a) into the atmosphere. I know you can usually take the car to a shop and they'll drain it for you. You can see where I'm going with this... Does anyone offer a "kit" to purge the A/C system? Once the refrigerant is removed it should be a pretty straightforward job of removing the condensor, resevoir, lines and pump and then capping off the pipes that lead into the cabin. I intend to keep everything just in case I decide I cannot live without A/C and want to reinstall it.

I'm not sure how you would tell if it's the original freon in the system, or if it's been overhauled. If it's the new stuff, afaik it's not environmentally harmful, so venting it should be okay. Freon is a bit more frowned upon, generally, as you know. Also, if you end up venting it, there's always more in the system when you think it's finally empty, so be careful. Just a heads up, lol.

 

[Shadow102]

if its r12 the fittings on the lines will look like tire air valves...r134a the fitting will be larger and not threaded. as far as venting it goes...well thats up to you...is the system even charged?

as far as the rack goes...manually converting the power rack is soooo worth it. And really its not that hard i think i did mine in about an hour at my shop. Its all about cutting off the center seal. As far as a complete walk through with pictures you can find it here: http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php thats the guide i followed i want to say there was maybe one or two things that were a tiny bit different on the rx-7 rack but it was just a matter of basic mechanics at that point. If you have any questions about it lmk this weekend i believe you said your going to be at the mitty

 

[magnumP5]

^^^ Awesome! I forgot all about that link. The write-up I have is specifically for the FC RX-7 and it mentions taking out/modifying a few others parts though.

IIRC, all the A/C fittings are pretty small - you can kind of see everything in the empty engine bay picture a few posts back. The A/C worked, albeit not too well, the last time I had it on so there's definitely refrigerant in the system. I haven't really found anything for a mobile auto service other than windshields but maybe so shops offer it.

Yeah, I'll be at the Mitty. In a Tacoma...

 

[Shadow102]

yeah i think i remember the write up your talking about if i remember they were just little extra things that were supposed to make it even more smooth, i know i didnt do them just because it was sort of involved it seemed and personally what i got from my rack couldnt have made me happier in fact more than a couple times i have thought about doing my miata rack the same way.

Just remember your going to need a second belt to drive the water pump if your deleting the ps and AC

 

[Signal 2]

Don't think they started using R134a until '94, but someone could have changed it over. Doesn't the 134a have the mandated red and blue fittings? FWIW, that pesky "Oh Zone" has actually been growing lately.

 

[Shadow102]

Don't think they started using R134a until '94, but someone could have changed it over. Doesn't the 134a have the mandated red and blue fittings? FWIW, that pesky "Oh Zone" has actually been growing lately.

i say just vent it the system is probably pretty empty by now anyway

 

[Sport23]

What is the link for the FC de-power? Try plugging it into Way back web, maybe you'll get lucky.

 

[magnumP5]

What is the link for the FC de-power? Try plugging it into Way back web, maybe you'll get lucky.

Oddly enough that partially worked. It pulls up like 2/3 of the pictures but that's better than nothing for a visual learner like me.

All the tools are in! Pending other things needing to be taken care of I may start the teardown tonight.

 

[Sport23]

Good stuff! Wish I had just de-powered my rack when my pump died... Maybe some day. Way to many projects before I get to something like that.

 

[magnumP5]

Made some (slow) progress today. Got the engine on the stand and start pulling off peripherals. Ended up shearing off one of the lower intake manifold bolts in the front iron. Fortunately there's about 1/2" still sticking out so I may be able to extract it but I don't plan on reusing that part anyway. Onto the pictures...

Engine on stand:

Shot of the "port" side. Notice all the oil buildup. There was something seriously wrong with the front rotor - this thing is nasty.

Here's a picture of the auxilliary port sleeve for the front rotor (far upper right port in the previous picture). Again, note the oil buildup.

Now here's the rear sleeve. Notice how this one is basically spotless but there may be a reason for that. When I tried to turn the actuators the drive the sleeves I could not get the rear to move AT ALL. It doesn't seem like it has moved in a while.

Now some spark plugs. First picture is the front rotor and the second is the rear. It may be hard to see but the plugs for the first rotor are noticeably "wet" while the plugs for the rear rotor are dry.

And finally, some pictures of the specialty tools I'm using. In the picture below we have the pilot bearing puller (top center), pilot bearing and seal installer (top right) and flywheel wrench (giant black bar). That wrench is over two feet long and has a 2-1/8" six-point wrench on one side!

Here's the last trick little piece. A flywheel stopper. This will allow me to remove the flywheel and main pulley bolt without the use of impact tools.

Lastly, for the hell of it, here is the pile of parts I've removed so far and the mess I've made in the garage.

 

[2.0t03speed]

reminds me of your parents garage when we were working on the old p5 lol

 

[magnumP5]

reminds me of your parents garage when we were working on the old p5 lol

You know you liked my hair dryer intercooler-drying system! Seriously though, this stuff is so much more intense than anything I did with the Protege. Removing intercoolers and turbos is like changing wheels compared to all this!

 

[mymmeryloss]

I don't see seats in that pile lol...

 

[PrinceValorum]

Mmmmmm, I want it!

http://www.youtube.com/embed/oXzuPuNWpXA