Zoom Zoom Boom Boom

msp3clutch

Member
:
Mazda, Mazdaspeed3
ok guys sp its 2/3/2011 im turning into my block to get home from work when all of a sudden boom crackle boom smoke and dead...
what should I do now...save up money, call my insurance...
Anyone that has gone threw this experience, help would be greatful =/
 
Mechanical breakdown is not a covered peril on a standard personal auto policy. It's excluded.
So unless your company offered MBI and you paid an additional premium for that coverage, insurance won't offer any options. Sorry about your luck.
 
wow i got soooooo lucky...found a friend that has a friend willing to sell me his motor, less then 7k for a few hundred bucks =)
doing the swap and saying bye bye to zoom zoom...fun car but def not going through this again...Corolla here I come lol Thanks guys
 
were you tuned? running 20psi with no tune is your issue. the stock tune on this car only pushes 15.6 psi... without a proper tune anything more than that is asking for trouble. id say get that engine swap it in, and do it right this time, theres no reason to throw away the car because of that.
 
20 psi is not the problem. It's 20 psi on an MBC. Bypassing the safeguards in the ECU and not modulating boost with load is what got him in trouble. MBC at above stock boost levels (hell, even AT stock boost levels) is asking for trouble. The turbo's efficiency range will handle 20 psi at low rpm, but the block (especially connecting rods) does not play well with boost that high at low rpm. Simply too much load on the reciprocating mass and way too much torque. And any boost level above 16-17 psi when cranking past 6k rpm will also kill this engine, because the turbo is driven past its efficiency and turns into a heat furnace.

That's why a tune is needed to run 20 psi and even then it had damn well better taper that boost back down to the 16 psi range when the tach needle starts moving past 5,800, and why load cut is built into the stock ECU and any responsible tune when unsafe conditions arise.

OP: Swap in the other engine and GET RID OF THE MBC. If you are going to run high boost, keep it below 18 or get a tune that will protect you.

Then enjoy your car. MBC + 20 psi = fail.
 
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^^^ +1
doing the swap and saying bye bye to zoom zoom...fun car but def not going through this again...Corolla here I come lol Thanks guys

Sounds like you blew your engine up by failmodding, don't blame the car. L2mod.
 
My issue was not getting a tune with the fuel pump...these cars blow, as you know, at LOW rpm's...I blew at 3K coming from a steady 40mph drive...LEAN is #1 enemy for this car; so advice to everyone, onces you modd, go for fuel pump ASAP (even just an intake)!!! And yes I think I'm done with daily racing car...This speed3 was a beauty and drove like a beast but I think its time for a normal daily driver and a project on the side.
 
sounds like its time to go for a built motor, hit me up i can build you a sick motor
 
These cars run lean when you mod like that without any kind of tune, yes. Even an OTS accessport tune helps tremendously... im running a stage2 OTS map right now until I get my re-tune done professionally and my AFR's are perfect when I'm cruising.
 
I'm at 47,000 miles on the stock fuel pump with my mods below. I know my fuel pump is 1700-1800 psi. Unless you are monitoring or at least spot checking fuel pump pressure under load you are just speculating. It's the 20 psi and MBC.

BTW: the rpm when OP "blew" could be important if he was winding it out, but most engine failure in high performance engines is due to the cumulative impact of multiple prior unsafe operating conditions. The failure often comes at an innocent time under what seems to be very conservative operating conditions.

Close inspection of the engine internals will tell the story, particularly things like whether there is an unusual wear pattern on the very thin surface of the main or rod bearings, the exact dimensions and straightness of the connecting rods, the compression, if any on each cylinder, the condition of the tops of the pistons and of the piston rings. If you know what to look for you can pretty much determine what the problem was. Just looking at the spark plugs after a failure can often tell you what happened and why.

I doubt it was the fuel pump.
 
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Doesn't the ECU compensate for the increased air from an SRI or CAI??

The ECU has the capability to adjust fuel trims within certain limits based on the increased air flow of a different intake. The new intake does have to be designed in a way that it does not introduce turbulance in the area where the air passes over the MAF sensor, and the air mass being measured is assumed to be based on the stock MAF housing diameter. For some intakes, particularly CAI's there may need to be an air straightener in the area of the MAF housing just before the air passes over the MAF sensor to tame the turbulence. If any variables from this are introduced in the aftermarket SRI or CAI design, whether turbulence or from such things as a different diameter MAF housing, then the MAF may need to be recalibrated in the ECU if its readings are to be accurate. It will take an aftermarket tune if those changes are too great for the ECU to handle within its adjustment range.

But, I'm curious as to where you are headed regarding the fuel pump. What were you driving at?
 
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20 psi is not the problem. It's 20 psi on an MBC. Bypassing the safeguards in the ECU and not modulating boost with load is what got him in trouble. MBC at above stock boost levels (hell, even AT stock boost levels) is asking for trouble. The turbo's efficiency range will handle 20 psi at low rpm, but the block (especially connecting rods) does not play well with boost that high at low rpm. Simply too much load on the reciprocating mass and way too much torque. And any boost level above 16-17 psi when cranking past 6k rpm will also kill this engine, because the turbo is driven past its efficiency and turns into a heat furnace.

That's why a tune is needed to run 20 psi and even then it had damn well better taper that boost back down to the 16 psi range when the tach needle starts moving past 5,800, and why load cut is built into the stock ECU and any responsible tune when unsafe conditions arise.

OP: Swap in the other engine and GET RID OF THE MBC. If you are going to run high boost, keep it below 18 or get a tune that will protect you.

Then enjoy your car. MBC + 20 psi = fail.

Bingo we have a winner!
First thing I saw in the sig was Turbosmart Dualport 50/50, and MBC 20lbs.
And the motor blew? What a surprise NOT!
 
ok guys i forgot to mention that i wasn't on my MBC when it happened. I sold it a while back when it kept spike 22-25 randomly and not holding boost at all...I was running between 15-17 lbs during the past month...If anything, I was unsing the ATP BCD so I wouldnt get fuel cut...
 
It was cumulative impact of long use of mbc at 20 psi. Now we also know of spiking to 25. The rods were getting hammered. This engine is a torque monster. When boost is raised and the ECU protections bypassed, it is a recipie for disaster. If not sooner, then later.

After the internals are subjected to repeated metal fatigue, things eventually reach a point where it takes very little power to finish off a connecting rod. The final fatal moment can even happen at idle. It becomes the straw that broke the camel's back.
 
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Mod, please delete the above commercial advertising spam. Shameful. And guys don't even open it. If you do, tell everybody to NOT do business with this slime.
 
Yeah, somewhere in the South Atlantic ocean off the Gulf of Guinea?
'Guess they are SPAMMING from aboard ship now??
 
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