Bent rod

For pity's sake man, think hard here. When a guy's going on to engine number 3 in 72K, I can pretty much guarantee you he's the common element here.

8.5-10s are fundamentally unchanged internally, small tuning changes but that's it. They are just newer and modded less.
 
I would have to agree with the above post. I've kicked the dog piss out of my 07, on occasion, and it hasn't even given me a hint of failure. Granted my mods are mild and I've only got 43,000KM, but it's still modded. No black oil. Doesn't burn oil. Other than the smoking turbo issue, my car runs like a top. Treat your car well, and it will do the same to you
 
Could be driver error. I've been running OTS map with no custom tune since Sep-5-2009. I drive it 7 days a week and go WOT daily with stock spark plugs. No problem whatsoever. Even though it's only an OTS map, I think it's doing a considerable good job keeping my engine in one piece. That's why I put a COBB sticker on my car as an appreciation.
 
For pity's sake man, think hard here. When a guy's going on to engine number 3 in 72K, I can pretty much guarantee you he's the common element here.

8.5-10s are fundamentally unchanged internally, small tuning changes but that's it. They are just newer and modded less.

x11

This is driver error, abuse or neglect.
 
I swore I heard that something was modified with the crack or its clearances in 2008.5 and up.
 
You might have heard it but, it's the same motor inside it always was. Tune is adjusted to take out some of the heavy torque spike down low out, which might help but, sucks ass, if I'm honest....
 
The engine is the same internally. With the '10 model Mazda did take some of the edge off of the low end coming up on boost, as Darth pointed out. Otherwise the engines are the same. They's also played a little bit with variations on the turbo over the model years to try to address the "smoking turbo" isssue they have been chasing on some cars. But turbo seal issues are not blowing the engines.

My own personal (unverified) theory, shared by at least some others, is that that huge low end torque spike may be responsible for some of the failure. It's not good to go WOT on this engine down below about 2,700 to 3,000 where that big torque spike appears. Whether that's the problem, who knows?

I think a lot of those 07-08 blown engines were on cars that were modded and "tuned" in irresponsible ways and then driven carelessly. I also think there are some owners who don't realize that on stock tune the engine runs out of steam at 5,500 rpm and they are trying to zing the car to redline like a Honda. This does not make more power and can actually cause harm if constantly bouncing the revs off of the limiter. And finally, careless shifting can cause serious damage from over-revving the engine if a shift meant to be an upshift at high rpm ends up catching a lower gear. That's why if you always shift not higher than 6,000 rpm, even if you make that screw up, there's enough head room (mechanical gearing change would still have engine crank speed below 7,000 rpm), to keep you out of trouble. All of these are things that happen when drivers move into a new model, especially if they are relatively new to high performance cars, not familiar with stick transmissions, and are making mods to forced induction engines.

We've learned a lot over the last 3-4 years that the car's been out. Most of the failures are going to be due to owner abuse of failure to properly maintain the car.
 
Last edited:
This is my first post though I have been lurking for some time. I have a 2008 with a MSCAI, FMIC and AP. I have 74000 miles on the odometer and I am still going strong. I am mindful of the fact that the engine is a relatively high compression for a turbo and that increasing boost top end without supporting mods and a good tune is guaranteed to pop the engine. With the number of sigs I see that show the use of boost controllers I am amazed that there are not more blown engine threads here.
 
This is my first post though I have been lurking for some time. I have a 2008 with a MSCAI, FMIC and AP. I have 74000 miles on the odometer and I am still going strong. I am mindful of the fact that the engine is a relatively high compression for a turbo and that increasing boost top end without supporting mods and a good tune is guaranteed to pop the engine. With the number of sigs I see that show the use of boost controllers I am amazed that there are not more blown engine threads here.

Might be your first post, but very wise words. Thanks for your voice of reason. You can run these cars hard and long if the mods are sensible and compatible with the limitations of this engine. And all high performance engines, especially forced induction ones, have limitations that have to be respected.
 
Last edited:
Might be your first post, but very wise words. Thanks for your voice of reason. You can run these cars hard and long if the mods are sensible and compatible with the limitations of this engine. And all high performance engines, especially forced induction ones, have limitations that have to be respected.

I agree as well. Anything can happen with boosted engines.
 
This is my first post though I have been lurking for some time. I have a 2008 with a MSCAI, FMIC and AP. I have 74000 miles on the odometer and I am still going strong. I am mindful of the fact that the engine is a relatively high compression for a turbo and that increasing boost top end without supporting mods and a good tune is guaranteed to pop the engine. With the number of sigs I see that show the use of boost controllers I am amazed that there are not more blown engine threads here.

Why? I have an MBC on my car and up until I got a Dashhawk I was running 16 psi. Now with a monitoring device I run 18psi that tapers to 16psi by 6000rpms and my AFR goes from 11.6 at 3000rpms at WOT and dips into the 9s @ 6000 rpms as well. 1600+ psi fuel pressure at WOT on stock pump, and a few .4 to .3 insignificant instances of knock. Car runs great and is nearing 40k. I am extra cautious about loading the engine below 3k. Think about it. All of that torque and boost pressure at low RPMs is a big problem. I am tuned but I also use an MBC to keep the boost where it needs to be at my altitude.
 
I am tuned but I also use an MBC to keep the boost where it needs to be at my altitude.

Please note in my response that I said without supporting mods and a good tune. I am not against boost controllers, I ran one in my WRX. It was an electronic one though and it was controlled by the boost map on the piggyback ECU. Manual boost controllers do provide cause for concern because it fails to adjust for variance of load conditions such as driving up and down hills. I personally would only use one on a flat drag strip and I can tune a map for the conditions of the day.
 
Please note in my response that I said without supporting mods and a good tune. I am not against boost controllers, I ran one in my WRX. It was an electronic one though and it was controlled by the boost map on the piggyback ECU. Manual boost controllers do provide cause for concern because it fails to adjust for variance of load conditions such as driving up and down hills. I personally would only use one on a flat drag strip and I can tune a map for the conditions of the day.

You also have to consider upgraded fuel pump, injectors as well.
 
Please note in my response that I said without supporting mods and a good tune. I am not against boost controllers, I ran one in my WRX. It was an electronic one though and it was controlled by the boost map on the piggyback ECU. Manual boost controllers do provide cause for concern because it fails to adjust for variance of load conditions such as driving up and down hills. I personally would only use one on a flat drag strip and I can tune a map for the conditions of the day.

The variance on mine from terrain has been maybe .5 psi. In the winter though I do have to readjust due to the cold air. I have had 0 issues with my MBC. I'm not running my car on the razor edge so i can tolerate more variance in boost. Works for me.
 
Back