What have you done to your Mazda6 today?

Which is why I asked opinions for lol, don't apologize!

Well, some people ask, but don't really want to be answered! :-)

Personally, I'd skip it, as no one's going to believe your B-pillar is actually made of lightweight carbonara, so why cover it and pretend? Besides, is there any other carbon on your car? If not, I don't really feel like it will flow with anything else on a silver 6.

Ultimately, do what you want to do with it. Everyone's got an opinion!
 
jeez wuts with all yall having ms6 troubles? im getting nervous here...

Not gonna lie....I drive the piss outta my car and have broken my fair share of stuff.

Right now I'm getting a max of 10ish psi that dumps almost immediately...thinking that my boost solenoid or wastegate actuator is shot and im running off straight wastegate sping pressure???? Still troubleshooting so not sure??
 
Threw my stock RSB in the garbage today. Pulled my stock 2nd cat out of the attic as well. Anyone want it?
 
Thanks Bro!
Know anybody that has Aluminum welding skillz?

Give Pillars a call:

11510 W JANESVILLE RD
Hales Corners, Wisconsin 53130
USA
Phone: (414) 425-3830

I don't know if they do aluminum, but they have done some pretty wicked builds and custom stuff so they might be able to help you.
 
Hmm... Are there any loose clamps or vacuum hoses that have popped off? Did this happen all of a sudden? SMokey turbo?

No smokey turbo (thank god). My intake sounds a little quieter than before so maybe a clamp is loose? I have the day off tomorrow so I plan on removing the intake and stock TIP, then re-install it all from scratch. Thats really the only thing that i've messed around with under the hood.....that and the BPV but the stocker is back on there now.....


join the club :(
Im waiting on a new boost solenoid to see if that will solve my problem...until then you can join me as a member of the N/A speed6 club LOL

ROFL :D Deal.....
 
Hey quick I know I asked you this before but did you actually notice a power gain with the FMIC over the ETS TMIC (you had that one right?). My warranty is up and CX racing has a new FMIC that looks solid for a good price. I obviously know that if you sit around and heat soak it will suck but in normal conditions would you say it is worth it? I won't lie the look is another big motivator. But not enough to waste my time if it isn't worth it.
 
I got scared driving home tonight in the vette. I was about 7 miles from home and I noticed this car going slow in the opposite lane headed the opposite direction. I was thinking the headlights on the car look familar. As I got closer I realized it was white. Then I realized it was a mazda 6. Then I realized it was a mazdaspeed6. then I realized that the lisence plate was mounted off to the right side!!!!!!! IT had the stock tails on it which looked a little tinted. I was thinking oh s*** someone stole my car!! SO I got on the phone real fast and called my house. I was getting ready to whip a u-turn and chase it down. I got my mom on the phone and asked her to run outside and see if my car was still on the side of the house. she said it was. What a releif. Still messed up someone stole my style already.. :(
 
Hey quick I know I asked you this before but did you actually notice a power gain with the FMIC over the ETS TMIC (you had that one right?). My warranty is up and CX racing has a new FMIC that looks solid for a good price. I obviously know that if you sit around and heat soak it will suck but in normal conditions would you say it is worth it? I won't lie the look is another big motivator. But not enough to waste my time if it isn't worth it.

To be completely honest. When both were cooling like they should there isnt much of a difference in performance accelleration wise. On a different note. the 3.5" ETS heat soaked just as fast if not faster than the stocker. It seemed to cool down faster than stock once moving but doesnt even compare to the fmic. The fmic never heat soaked. On a hot summer day with the car idling for a while it was nothing to see 200 degree bat's on the stock or the ets. With the fmic the highest I have ever seen was around 155 or so. But once you get moving it easily would drop down and much faster than the tmic.

Another thing to consider which I was skeptical about is ptp's intake manifold spacer. this was a big drop in temps even with the fmic on. Before when you touched the IM by hand after a drive it would burn my fingers. After the spacer the IM was either warm or cool but not enough that burned my hand without one. The downside to the spacer is the EGR tube cant seem to fit with the IM sitting out 1/4" more than what it is. So I had no choice but to do an EGR delete.

I'd say definetly go for the FMIC. I do not regret it at all. Install is kinda a pain if its a custom kit. But you can have all piping, couplers, clamps, and intercooler for just around 500 bucks. And it will cool better than the aftermarket kits for our cars. Since those tend to sit behind the crash bar.

what IC are you talking about?
 
Hey quick I know I asked you this before but did you actually notice a power gain with the FMIC over the ETS TMIC (you had that one right?). My warranty is up and CX racing has a new FMIC that looks solid for a good price. I obviously know that if you sit around and heat soak it will suck but in normal conditions would you say it is worth it? I won't lie the look is another big motivator. But not enough to waste my time if it isn't worth it.

With an ambient of ~20 degrees C, i see about 130 degrees F BAT's with my core, and at lights it may get up to 145, when boosting anything above vac it drops to mid 100's.
More boost = more drop, the most i saw was a drop to 97 with the ambiant of ~20 degrees C.
Hows that compair with your TMIC?

oh and ps i have the cx XX x 8 x 3.5 inlet outlet 1 side core.

I got this in an email today with a subject 2006 mazdaspeed 6 owners.
cucumber.jpg

i dont get it but i sure laughed hard.
 
regardless if you have a tmic or fmic you are going to see high bat's at idle since the BAT sensor is in the intake manifold. the key is how fast do those temps drop after you get back on the throttle.
 
I did a wash and put a new coat of wax on for winter yesterday. I also noticed all the hood chips are getting out of control. I might have to do something about them all in the spring.

batou, where are the wheel pics already!?
 
I did a wash and put a new coat of wax on for winter yesterday. I also noticed all the hood chips are getting out of control. I might have to do something about them all in the spring.

batou, where are the wheel pics already!?
 
Drove the mazda on the road for this first time just now since removing parts. I was very surprised how slow it was. :D
 
To be completely honest. When both were cooling like they should there isnt much of a difference in performance accelleration wise. On a different note. the 3.5" ETS heat soaked just as fast if not faster than the stocker. It seemed to cool down faster than stock once moving but doesnt even compare to the fmic. The fmic never heat soaked. On a hot summer day with the car idling for a while it was nothing to see 200 degree bat's on the stock or the ets. With the fmic the highest I have ever seen was around 155 or so. But once you get moving it easily would drop down and much faster than the tmic.

Another thing to consider which I was skeptical about is ptp's intake manifold spacer. this was a big drop in temps even with the fmic on. Before when you touched the IM by hand after a drive it would burn my fingers. After the spacer the IM was either warm or cool but not enough that burned my hand without one. The downside to the spacer is the EGR tube cant seem to fit with the IM sitting out 1/4" more than what it is. So I had no choice but to do an EGR delete.

I'd say definetly go for the FMIC. I do not regret it at all. Install is kinda a pain if its a custom kit. But you can have all piping, couplers, clamps, and intercooler for just around 500 bucks. And it will cool better than the aftermarket kits for our cars. Since those tend to sit behind the crash bar.

what IC are you talking about?

regardless if you have a tmic or fmic you are going to see high bat's at idle since the BAT sensor is in the intake manifold. the key is how fast do those temps drop after you get back on the throttle.

True to both of you... about the FMIC not heat soaking as much as TMIC, not suprising with one sitting directly above the engine and the other in front with direct air access. not as much shrouding around it or as close to engine. cooldown during movement is what counts!

For me, i figure it wont necessarily be all that necessary or useful unless i start going with real big powr mods, or big turbo. Ill be tuning eventually for close to 300awhp with a few more mods like the ETS, etc etc, but wont be going past, so if anything i might just settle on an IC sprayer after im all bolted. FMIC i spose only if i see a great price with a LARGE IC core, for kicks n giggles.

I did a wash and put a new coat of wax on for winter yesterday. I also noticed all the hood chips are getting out of control. I might have to do something about them all in the spring.

batou, where are the wheel pics already!?

srry bro, lifes been insane. i honestly havent been able to get any nice pics.
im not even free until it gets dark. :( this weekend i promise!!! (kiss)
 
Back