Has Anyone Had Their Fuel Pump/Cover Leak?
- Thread starter mtnbiker26
- Start date
Your pic brings back mems from two weeks back.. The fuels lines take a clip to unhook them.http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTxiEdGaaaImCfj6duMq0uFmp8Phbwj3wh925LRSg16tPy6WJo&t=1&usg=__9sOVfgv_aDMKCBkt9nG9w7yuyWE=
Thats the kit i have.. The yellow one is the one you need.
mtnbiker26
Bike Geek
I was able to do it with a couple of tiny flathead screwdrivers. It was quite a pain, though. I'd recommend getting the kit if you can. The connectors are not included with the new housing so you don't want to damage them.
Thanks to both of y'all. Do I presume correctly that the function of the kit/screwdriver pair is to compress the 2 little green ears inward? Oops, never mind, I just looked at the how-to link above which described what to do, and very nicely.
I always get very nervous when faced with plastic structural components.
And, just what is this kit called?
I'm SO glad that they used such cheap-arse and complicated pieces of plastic finery just to save 3 cents and 7.2 seconds of assembly time.
I always get very nervous when faced with plastic structural components.
And, just what is this kit called?
I'm SO glad that they used such cheap-arse and complicated pieces of plastic finery just to save 3 cents and 7.2 seconds of assembly time.
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My kit..MD4000 Master disconect set.. They have many names. Fuel line clip tools or fuel line disconnect tool or fuel line release tool..
JT
stuckdoin80
Member
- :
- 2003 protege5
www.rockauto.com has everything needed to fix this problem. I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump, strainer, and rubber gasket all at once. Now I'm going back to do the fuel pump body/plastic cap also available at rockauto! I'm tired of smelling gas and wondering when the car will ketch fire! ha!!!
another rusted out part on my car
Well the gas leaking on my newly sealed driveway is driving me to fix this new rust issue on my P5. Not to mention co-workers and family complaining about the smell.
When I took the cover off the level of rust especially on the screw heads is astonishing. Hopefully the OP's suggestion of the impact driver will work. I'm picking one up from Sears tonight.
One question I'm getting replacement screws holding the fuel pump assembly to the tank. I know they are 4mm by 8mm. Is the thread type course or fine (machine threads??)
Thanks for this thread and any additional help.
**JUST FOUND nlinesk8s POST with the mcmaster specs available. Thanks**
Well the gas leaking on my newly sealed driveway is driving me to fix this new rust issue on my P5. Not to mention co-workers and family complaining about the smell.
When I took the cover off the level of rust especially on the screw heads is astonishing. Hopefully the OP's suggestion of the impact driver will work. I'm picking one up from Sears tonight.
One question I'm getting replacement screws holding the fuel pump assembly to the tank. I know they are 4mm by 8mm. Is the thread type course or fine (machine threads??)
Thanks for this thread and any additional help.
**JUST FOUND nlinesk8s POST with the mcmaster specs available. Thanks**
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well it was ugly. Ended up using a cold chisel on the screw heads. They were so rusted out even the impact driver and days of PB Blaster would not get them free.
After I pulled out the cover and pump I siphoned out much of the gas and made a duct tape cover to stop debris from going in and gas vapor from coming out. I didn't blow up which was nice.
Scraped, sanded, cleaned the pieces. Put a small bead of RTV on the rubber gasket and coated all the metal faces with anti-seize to try and prevent future rust.
Put it back together with my new stainless allen head bolts. Put the lines and electric connections and access cover. I'll add some gas tomorrow and hope for no leaks. If it holds up I'll probably sell or trade it in. I'm sick of this rust bucket.
After I pulled out the cover and pump I siphoned out much of the gas and made a duct tape cover to stop debris from going in and gas vapor from coming out. I didn't blow up which was nice.
Scraped, sanded, cleaned the pieces. Put a small bead of RTV on the rubber gasket and coated all the metal faces with anti-seize to try and prevent future rust.
Put it back together with my new stainless allen head bolts. Put the lines and electric connections and access cover. I'll add some gas tomorrow and hope for no leaks. If it holds up I'll probably sell or trade it in. I'm sick of this rust bucket.
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I am having the same fuel smell problem and checked the access cover for the fuel pump and it is certainly leaking. I can't even make out the difference between the screws and the plate itself (thats how rusted it is). I called the dealer and priced the parts and to my surprise the fuel pump housing was over $200!! Is this legit? Do I NEED this part? Or can I just clean everything up and put it back together with new allen head bolts?
if you are talking about part #2 shown in mtnbkr's picture it sounds real high. Did that include labor? Online OEM Mazda part I found was $38. I just ordered a beck-arnley(sp?) unit from RocAuto for $28 + shipping.
I found my unit was eaten away and had cracks in the top. I am refinishing the metal plate and reusing the rubber gasket. We'll see how it holds up when I get the parts and put it back together this week.
I found my unit was eaten away and had cracks in the top. I am refinishing the metal plate and reusing the rubber gasket. We'll see how it holds up when I get the parts and put it back together this week.
mtnbiker26
Bike Geek
Pennell,
I just dug out the receipt and I paid $55.52 (American Dollars) for the fuel body (GY01-13-ZE0) from the dealer here in MA (metromotorgroup.com). The plastic on top of mine was all eaten away and it HAD to be replaced for the gasket to seal against it. Make sure they're not including the fuel pump in the price. You remove the pump from the old fuel body and reuse it.
I just dug out the receipt and I paid $55.52 (American Dollars) for the fuel body (GY01-13-ZE0) from the dealer here in MA (metromotorgroup.com). The plastic on top of mine was all eaten away and it HAD to be replaced for the gasket to seal against it. Make sure they're not including the fuel pump in the price. You remove the pump from the old fuel body and reuse it.
Hmm... I have a feeling thats the price they gave me (including the pump) instead of calling I will go over in person today. I have put off fixing this for so long because of the overpriced (what I thought) part. In this case I will order everything shown in the diagram (fuel body, plate, gasket, o-ring, and the washer).
Thanks all.
Thanks all.
CheeseHelmet
Member
Could you share all the part numbers from this website? I am having trouble navigating to find the fuel pump housing...
CheeseHelmet
Member
I'm not sure what the numbers are, however you can email the guy who runs the site; he's very helpful.
back on the road and not posing a bomb threat anymore
I got a car again. I like riding my motorcyle but its nice to have an alternative. It was the high pressure housing that was causing this issue. See the picture below. Several cracks and the plastic was eaten away.
Here is the info on the part I ordered from Roc Auto.
BECK/ARNLEY 0433010 (043-3010) Fuel Filter $ 30.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 30.79
its described here as a fuel filter but it is the high pressure housing.
Many Thanks to mtnbiker26 for starting this highly useful thread!
I got a car again. I like riding my motorcyle but its nice to have an alternative. It was the high pressure housing that was causing this issue. See the picture below. Several cracks and the plastic was eaten away.
Here is the info on the part I ordered from Roc Auto.
BECK/ARNLEY 0433010 (043-3010) Fuel Filter $ 30.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 30.79
its described here as a fuel filter but it is the high pressure housing.
Many Thanks to mtnbiker26 for starting this highly useful thread!
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yeah I have a theory on why these crack. I'm thinking that the coating on the plastic gets scratched by the (rusted) metal cover. It takes years, but the plastic underneath is vulnerable to attack from low levels of gas fumes or just stress cracking, maybe from slight movement under pressure. Seems every one I see that's cracked follows the pattern of scratched areas leaking.
Anyway, I'd use a new metal ring or at least clean it up and maybe paint it. I actually created a "gasket" layer between the ring and filter body. Basically just a sheet of polyethylene, like a coffee can lid. Not a big deal - should last several years even if you just put in in rusty, I'd guess.
Anyway, I'd use a new metal ring or at least clean it up and maybe paint it. I actually created a "gasket" layer between the ring and filter body. Basically just a sheet of polyethylene, like a coffee can lid. Not a big deal - should last several years even if you just put in in rusty, I'd guess.
